Rome at night

Coloseo from Vittorio

These are from the top of Vittorio Emanuele monument in the heart of ancient Rome.  The monument is from the late 1800’s, commemorating the unification of Italy, but it is in the heart of things, with the Roman forums to its rear and sides, the historic center where you find the Pantheon, with St Peter’s Basilica in the background–  although with my excellent Canon telephoto lens you can get quite close.  Photos below the video.

Teatro Marcello from Vittorio Emanuele
Teatro Marcello from Vittorio Emanuele
St Peter's at night from Vittorio
St Peter’s at night from Vittorio
St Peter's at night from Vittorio
St Peter’s at night from Vittorio
Roman era frescoes at Tor di Argentina
Roman era frescoes at Tor di Argentina
Pantheon from Vittorio
Pantheon from Vittorio
Forum from Vittorio
Forum from Vittorio
Coloseo from Vittorio
Coloseo from Vittorio
Cats at Tor di Argentina
Cats at Tor di Argentina
Campodolgio from Vittorio - this is where the current Roman senate meets
Campodolgio from Vittorio – this is where the current Roman senate meets

St Agnes at the Track – Piazza Navona, with pen and ink drawings of Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Four Rivers Fountain, horse

Chiesa Sant’Agnese is a small domed church designed by Boromini, a contemporary of Bernini and a rival who never made it to his competitor’s stature.  In my book he had nothing to be ashamed of, he just had a competitor that was outstanding and well connected.  The work he was assigned was smaller in scale but he did a magnificent job of making the interiors zoom in space.  

Chiesa Sant’Agnese is often termed “St. Agnes in Agony’ but this gives an incorrect translation of ‘Agone.”  Agone means ‘games’ and also refers to the stadium built by Diocletian starting in 80 AD, with a circle track.  So perhaps we should say “St Agnes at the Track,”  as irreverent as that may seem.

The church sits on what we now call Piazza Navona, originally called “Circus Agonalis” (circus is a circle, just like Circo Massimo, Circus Maximus).  Apparently the name Agonoalis morphed into Navona.  Aside from the track shape of the plaza and the buildings facing it, the main feature of the plaza is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers).  

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Seated boxer and other drawings from Rome

The Seated Boxer, at Museo Nazionale Romano.
The Seated Boxer, at Museo Nazionale Romano.
The Seated Boxer, at Museo Nazionale Romano.Famous bronze statue.
Trajans Column from Vittorio Emanuelle
Trajan’s Column from Vittorio Emanuelle, sketch in ink, while waiting for the concert
Teenage girl
Teenage girl , graphite
View From castle San Angelo
View From castle San Angelo, pen, brush and ink, seated along the Tevere

 

Church Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Statue at the church called Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Teen girl at cafe
Teen girl at cafe, pen, brush ink

 

A Summer of Music in Rome’s Fabulous Venues

Barcelona Gipsy balKan Orchestra

Every summer the Italian government sponsors outdoor music events as part of a broader cultural initiative. The Polo Museale del Lazio (Museum Center of Lazio) put together one hundred activities for this summer’s entertainment.  See http://art-city.it

To date we have attended three concerts, one at Castle St Angelo and two at Piazza Venezia.  The former is in Vatican territory and the latter overlooks the Roman forum and the ‘centro historico’ of Rome.  Two more fabulous venues would be hard to find.  

From the Castle you have a great view of St. Peter’s Cathedral as well as the River Tevere and it’s many summertime tents, where patrons sip cold beverages or have a plate of pasta while sitting on the banks of the river that divides Rome.  

St Peter's from Castle Sant'Angelo
St Peter’s from Castle Sant’Angelo

 

We were privileged to enjoy the Barcelona Gypsy balKan (sic) Orchestra seated on the upper levels of the monument, erected circa 139 as Hadrian’s tomb.  You too can watch the performance we did, without the venue unfortunately:

Barcelona Gipsy balKan Orchestra, pen ink brish, mini done in audience
Barcelona Gypsy balKan (sic) Orchestra, pen ink brish, mini done in audience
Barcelona Gipsy balKan Orchestra
Barcelona Gipsy balKan Orchestra, pen ink brush, done in audience

Their lively performances fuse Roma and Klezmer.  Klezmer is a musical genre created by Ashkenazi Jews of Eastern Europe.  The groups are called klezmorim and originally it was largely dance tunes and instrumentals that they played for weddings and other celebrations.  It is every bit as energetic as Roma music and likewise there are dances that go with some songs.  When we were in Budapest one summer we watched a band and dance group performance, men in traditional black hats and suits dancing on an outdoor stage along the Danube.  It was impressively athletic, including bottles balanced on heads.

The concerts at Piazza Venezia take place within the monument to Vittorio Emannuel II, made king of Italy at the time of unification in 1861.  (You may recall that in 2000 Peg worked with the nephew of Lampedusa, who wrote the Leopard, a novel about Sicily at the time of reunification-  Gigi was working on a novel).  The monument overlooks Piazza Venezia on one side with great views of the historic center, and portions of the Roman forums on the others.  You can easily see Trajan’s column.

While waiting for the concert to begin, I sketched Trajan’s column.  The column recounts the conquest of Dacia, in what we now call Romania.  Romanian is a romance language, adopted as a result of the conquest depicted here.  The sculptors who did these columns came to be called columnists, from which we get our use of the word.

Trajans Column from Vittorio Emanuelle
Trajans Column from Vittorio Emanuelle, sketch

Romans are not fond of the monument, pejoratively calling it The Wedding Cake for its many layers. That you have to climb 260 stairs to get to the terraces does not make it any easier to like.  They say it is two floors to the terrace, which is true I suppose, it’s just the ceiling height that kills you.  There is an elevator to the highest level but you pay for those amazing views, but there is no stop on the level where they hold the concerts.

One evening there was a jazz band that whose offerings were too far from melodic for us.  The second night was Bach.  There were a flutist and a violinist, each accompanied by a virtuoso pianist, and a cellist who joined the rest for a third piece.   Fortunately I am a Bach fan, but if I were not, there would have been far too many notes for comfort.

 

These concerts and other events continue until September.  What a pleasure! 

Some classical style drawing, da Roma

Staute at Chiesa San Ignacio

July 7, 2017

When in Rome, draw as the Romans draw.  There’s so much to emulate!  Here are some statues and models I have drawn these past two weeks

 

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Trumpcissus — on Time Magazine Cover

Trumpcissus (Trump on Time Magazine Cover), prints only, original painting cut into Time cover

Trumpcissus on Time Magazine Cover

Caravaggio’s Narcissus forms the basis of the painting that I cut and paste into this Time magazine cover.  Prints only.  The original painting of Trump a la Narcissus is for sale-  go to https://garyjkirkpatrick.com/narcissus-ciao-carravaggio-theresistance-dumptrump-nobannowall-nohate-antitrump-antitrumpmvmt/.

If image is not sharp, try enlarging it.  

Trumpcissus (Trump on Time Cover)

Digital painting