Eating the Lyon

Cuisine Capital of France: that is Lyon. We are here again, curious to find out more about what holding this title means. What do people eat and how much do they pay in the markets, the bars and restaurants? I have anecdotally added to my sense of what’s happening.

We rented an apartment on a busy street near the center of town. Next door as well as across the street are very popular local bars. Beer is the alcoholic beverage of choice in these bars, not wine, so if you think France is a strictly or even predominantly wine culture you should take pause. The French love to eat, but take pause again. In the bars very few people have something to eat, not even peanuts or some such, as they nurse their beer for hours while blathering to friends and lovers.

Also on our street, practically next door, is a bakery, labeled ‘artisan.’ Aside from the mighty French baguette, there’s the even better ‘tradition,’ produced the old fashioned way, yielding a crustier bread and better text for many 10 or 20 cents more. The French have bread making down to an art – the ones more ‘scientifically produced are termed ‘pain industrial’ and do not compare to the real thing, excelling only in shelf life.

bakery
You pay by weight for some breads.

Not far away is a patisserie, a pastry shop that may also sell chocolate. The red pastries you see below, called pralines, are a Lyon specialty, made with almond paste and red dye. It is super sweet pastry. There is also a wide, no, an immense variety of other desserts, from the wonderful eclair to the Napoleon, short like him, but otherwise tasty.

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Patisserie, watercolor painting

Many bakeries offer a lunch special, a baguette, a beverage and a dessert for €7-9. By comparison, most sit down restaurants offer a first, an ‘entree,’ (meaning the first course), a ‘plat’ (main course) and sometimes either a dessert or coffee for around €20, an amount most people can not afford to do too often. The minimum wage is about €18,000 a year.

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An extra fancy chocolate shop

Here’s what’s on offer at this place (see below) for €18.50. You get an entree + plat or plat + dessert, pay €4 more to get all three. For firsts there is a ravioli with a cheese sauce made with St Marcelin cheese, or onions gratinee, or eggs muerette (a red wine sauce cooked with bacon, onions, shallots, mushrooms and various spices). For seconds there is a steak, a foix gras dish, or a pork filet. For dessert its a praline tart with whipped cream, a fromage blanc (a not sour, sour cream like cheese) dish, a cheese spread with herbs or a sorbet.

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Beaujolais wine is produced just a bit north of Lyon. The low tannin Gamay grape is primary in the area. Among the famous wines are Nouveau Beaujolais, a fresh wine that comes out with great fanfare in early November each year. Since the region is so close I expected wine tasting to be a big part of the local scene. Indeed, there are about 16 wine bars, nothing compared to the number of regular bars, but I think far more than one would find elsewhere in France, let alone other wine producing countries.

We went to two wine bars during our ten days. A glass of mid range wines runs between €6 and €9 at each. The second one we went to is called La Bouteillerie. We had two glasses each, delivered with extensive commentary from the host, whereas at the first our host barely said a word. We talked extensively about the aromas and flavors, as well as the viscosity (‘legs’) of the wines. We were among the first there at 6 pm so he had more time than he might when full, taking about ten minutes with us. It’s not a large place, just three tables inside and three out, so I bet he does a lot of talking regardless. At the very least he discusses the clients’ preferences, coming up with a recommendation if they want one, as we observed as the place filled. He was so communicative that when he learned we were going to his home town of Annecy he gave us restaurant recommendations without us asking. Of course you would want to know where to eat.

We ordered a cheese and meat plate to go along with the wine. The plate was so covered in salad that at first I thought he’d forgotten the cheese and sausage. However there were several very good, very room temperature soft cheeses – this is the way you are supposed to serve cheeses like Camembert as you get the most flavor that way. There was some rosette. A rosette is a Lyon version of salami, rosey in color, thus the name. There were several terrines, ground meat formed into a loaf. One had pistachios, each was spiced and flavored somehow or another. This delightful experience ran us about €60. He only served us €6 wines, not by our request but his recommendations based on what kinds of wines we each like.

Bouchon Les Lyonaisse, another member of the Bouchon Association of restaurants , is at the bottom of a steep hill, about 250 leg aching, next day painful steps down from the L’Antiquaille. Lyon’s excellent early Christianity museum housed in a now closed hospital founded by nuns centuries ago. A bouchon is an old style of restaurant originally serving the canuts, silk workers, specializing in hearty but inexpensive food. They do not seem to be that inexpensive to me, but it is indeed hearty and tasty cuisine. You can avoid the tripe and other innards if you like.

Bouchon Les Lyonnais
A look at the interior of Les Lyonnais.

This is the second bouchon for us. This time it was a lentil dish for an entree and a ravioli for the main. The lentils were in a vinaigrette, the ravioli in an Ementhal cheese sauce, and a lot of it. Both were super, served with some of the best bread ever, by friendly staff. Being friendly is part of being a bouchon.

Salade de Lentilles Vertes au Cervelas
Salade de Lentilles Vertes au Cervelas (a sausage found in several EU countries)
Gratin de ravioles du Dauphiné Label Rouge
Gratin de ravioles du Dauphiné Label Rouge

This lovely lunch ran about €70. Not exactly cheap, is it. If you want cheap yet still good, go to the bakeries or the kebab shops. In the latter a kebab meal, sandwich, fries and beverage run from €9-13.

Wherever you go, you will enjoy!

Montluc, the Gestapo Prison of Lyon

We are in the heart of what was Vichy France, and the home of the Butcher of Lyon.

Montluc prison was used by the Gestapo. In the museum today you can read the stories of some of the tortured and murdered witnesses, some of which you will see below, which I translated from panels in the exhibit.

The Gestapo in Lyon was lead by the infamous Klauss Barbie, the Butcher of Lyon. He was directly responsible for the death of 14,000 people, and the brutal torture of thousands. Forty years later, in May 1987, he was extradited from Bolivia, to which he had escaped with the help of US counter intelligence, judged for crimes against humanity and sentenced to life imprisonment. By then France had outlawed the death penalty. He died a few years later of cancer.

The Gestapo was first established at the Terminus hotel near Perrache station,  then in the premises of the School of Military Health Services on Avenue Berthelot and finally,  after the bombing of May 26, 1944, at 35 Place Bellecour. The torture took place In these locations, not at the prison.

Violence governed the relationships between prisoners and guards, and the days were punctuated by summons for interrogation, where torture was used to obtain confessions and information.  Internees also were subject to deportation and execution. There were few bright spots in their lives. One was their ability to form friendships, despite the prohibition against all communication between prisoners. Also there were links, if tenuous, between the prison and the outside world. Prisoners could receive letters and packages, before this practice was prohibited, as well as news of the Allied advance brought by new arrivals, saving many from falling into despair.

Since the November, 1942 invasion of the Vichy zone, the prison had been coveted by the Wehrmacht for its proximity to rail transport. On February 17, 1943, the prison was requisitioned by the Wehrmacht. As a result also of Nazi laws governing the occupied territory, the Wehrmacht (German army) administered prison was used to intern resistance fighters, hostages and Jews starting shortly after the requisition. Most prisoners were were arrested by the Gestapo, less frequently by the Militia. The prison served the entire southern zone. Vichy police could enter only to take charge of the bodies intended for the morgue.

Beginning in the summer of 1942 the Vichy government collaborated with the Nazis, who relied largely on the French police. The Resistance was hit hard starting in the spring of 1943 as the hunt for Jews intensified aswell.  In 1944 massacres and summary executions multiplied.

Montluc_1940_Coll_Roger_Gay
Period photo

The creation of the Militia by the Vichy regime in early 1943 augmented the threat against Jews and Resistance fighters.  A paramilitary group heir to the Legion of Combatants and the Service d’ordre  Legionnaire, the Militia was divided into five services bringing together nearly 300 people in Lyon under the direction of Joseph Lécussan. The Courts Martial of the Militia were created in early 1944 to judge individuals acting alone or in groups, arrested in the act of “murder” or other so called crimes.  In Lyon, this courts martial sat at Saint-Paul prison. It met 18 times in 1944. Forty-five of the 52 resistance fighters brought before the court martial were sentenced to death and executed.  On June 29, 1944,  more than 722 prisoners, incarcerated for acts of resistance, were handed over to the occupier.  All were to be deported to Dachau.

 Later in the summer of 1944, when the trains were disrupted by  incessant attacks by the Resistance, many Jewish and non-Jewish detainees were taken to  be shot.  A final convoy left Lyon on August 11, 1944 with more than six hundred detainees on board,  including more than 400 Jews. Eleven days later they reached Auschwitz-Birkenau.

 Jews experienced conditions of detention harsher than the other prisoners. They were held until they were shipped to death camps.  Over two thousand Jews were interned, singles and even entire families, sometimes only for one night, like the children of the Izieu colony.

One description of Montluc prison reads: “It was a long barracks, a kind of beached Nordic longship, the keel  in the air, in the prison yard with its cargo of broken down prisoners.  Eighteen windows, three-quarters of which were smeared with yellow paint, opened and closed in its flanks, under the command of the men of the Wermacht. Bedbugs swarmed by the  thousands.   We were almost constantly traversed by the quivering of their agile little legs. Two rows of tiered beds, narrow like ship’s berths,  between them a long passageway, covered with piles of laundry.”  

Statements from prisoners

Émile Terroine, from “The Gestapo jails, Memories of Montluc prison” Editions de la Guillotièn notes:

Imagine the fate of prisoners, and even more so of female prisoners, who live in cells of six,  eight and sometimes more on an area of ​​two meters by one meter eighty, …lukewarm water {presumably it was summer at that time –Ed} in a bucket, ten minutes out in the morning to go to the toilet, because if we used the bucket life would become impossible. Not able to spread out simultaneously, neither at night nor during the day, taking turns trying to sleep while curled up in improbable positions.

Lazare Gaillard

The Montluc diet is particularly harsh, as is the whole regime. We were only allowed ten minutes outside our crowded cell, in the morning around 9 a.m.  During these few minutes in the heat we have the right to wash ourselves or our laundry.  Every 15 days, this  morning outing is replaced by showers in the afternoon.  Every week we can shave in the corridor serving the cells. During these different exercises absolute silence is required.  The guards kept yelling “Silence! ” Sanctions consisted of deprivation of soup for three  or four days. From time to time we were searched.

Arrested by the Gestapo on July 22, 1943, the same evening I found myself in a cell  on the first floor of Fort Montluc. I have no memory of my arrival. No doubt the interrogation was tough, so I might not have been entirely conscious.  The cell I occupied for a month and a half had two bedsteads  separated by a short space and, at ground level, to the right of the entrance door an opening, closed by a small iron door, for the toilet. There was one advantage:  by climbing onto one of the bedsteads we could look through the skylight and  see, beyond the surrounding wall, the rue du Dauphiné and the gate of a factory. From Montluc, the antechamber of the unknown (1942-1944).

André Pedron

Here I am in prison…  Four whitewashed walls, absolutely bare, the concrete floor.  Opposite the door, at a height inaccessible to a man, a small window with seven bars.  In the corner, on the left, a small iron door;  I open it:  it is a cupboard, occupied by a bucket which will serve as a toilet.  Finally, under the window,  a bench whose total thickness does not exceed three centimeters.  Then, based on the length of my shoes, I measured the cell:  2 meters 10 by 1 meter 80. I estimated the height at around 3 meters, which  is about 12 cubic meters, just enough for one man.  There will be up to seven of us living in this cubbyhole.  In Montluc, the Anteroom of the Unknown (1942-1944).

Francis Gagneraud was a pharmacist. Demobilized from the French Navy in August 1940 he joined the ranks  of the Resistance.  On December 10, 1943, Gagneraud was arrested on Quai Perrache. Interned in the “Jewish barracks.,” he obtained pharmaceuticals gathered by his wife.  In the small room that he was able to annex he posted the words “Infirmary” on the door, with a red cross.  For six months, assisted by medical student André Roux, he treated many prisoners.  For the sickest, he managed to negotiate improvements in internment conditions and to

Francis Gagneraud was released on August 16, 1944.

Alban Grateau, in the summer of 1944:

The Germans who guarded us were more  gentle with us and one of them said to us: “Tonight, everyone leaves.”  Indeed, the rumor of our release circulated from cell to cell and throughout the premises where we were locked up.  The women sang La Marseillaise and La Madelon, no one intervened to silence them, hope was born.  Finally, we suddenly heard a broken voice speaking to us in the courtyard. It was General Chevallier and here are, verbatim, words he addressed to us:

 “My children, the Germans have left, they left me the keys. But for reasons that I cannot tell you,  we won’t open the doors until tomorrow morning.”

Barely had these words been spoken when broke down the solid doors, opening other doors for our comrades. Imagine this sudden release of seven hundred martyrs, the majority of whom had been  tortured and who all expected to die in firing squads.

Charles Déchelette writes:

 It was crazy enthusiasm: everyone was laughing, kissing, singing. We were all the more happy to live given that the enemy had left Lyon. It was then that young people who were very hungry – and  for good reason! – blew down the doors of the food stores. In the blink of an eye, everything was distributed.

The Montluc Prison website

In the Mouth of the Lyon

Flying north takes me easterly over the water first to Palma de Mallora before winging in the correct direction, an hour later settling lower over the lush landscape of France west of Geneva.

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Over the Rhone

The Rhone Express, perhaps better named the Rhone Decaffeinated, crawls though intersections after brusque rushes past farms, dropping me off at Gare -Dieu (don’t ask me why they need a dash in there when they need it instead on on the train). The landlord let me in, gave me a few incomprehensible instructions and one or two otherwise and off I went. It’s wine and cheese time and I’m on my own in the big city.

None can compare to a Rustique Camembert. Take my word for it, I’ve tried the expensive shops, paid much more and come back disappointed. (Note to my Valencia readers- you can get one at the Mercado Central in the center where they have the belens at Xmas time). I looked for one in the small epicerie a minute from our turn of the century front door. They not only had it but another of my favorites as well, a monk cheese with a washed skin that gives it an almost crunch texture. It’s called Chausse de Moines

wine and cheese in Lyon mod
Wine and Cheese, water color and ink

Mon dieu! I’d forgotten the bread. Another minute wasted as I shuffled down the street to the artisanal bakery. My moment was saved.

A mere day later then came the Missus. Our Lady of Perpetual Motion. She of the Map. Known by many names, off we went. Not that my days of wine and cheese were over. It’s a land of wine to go with the cheese. For 4-5 € there’s a good one even in the supermarket. There’s a Merlot (gasp go the winos), rond et fruite from the Pays d’ Oc, further south, while here you can get Beaujolais, including of course its famous Nouveau, and a tiny bit further the wines of Burgundy appear. I found a Petite Chapelle from Burgandy at the Super U. Not much fruit left but lots of complex flavor nonetheless and enough legs to qualify as a Rockette.

It’s going to be a rough few weeks.

Perouges, one of the most picturesque villages of France

On a small hill sits Perouges, a tiny medieval fortress-like stone-walled village. Founded some 1000 years ago, possibly by Gauls returning from a visit to Perugia, Italy, it’s streets are rough stone, difficult to walk on. The walls and buildings are stone, as well as just about everything else, a perfect example of what we refer to when we say, “They don’t build ’em like they used to.” I’ll say.

The town was on the border between France and the Duchy of Burgandy, which was not annexed until 1477, thus the need for its defensive walls.

Once housing a few hundred, now just 90 people live there as it converted into a tourist destination. It is about 40 minutes from Lyon by train (reduced prices on Sundays), and . You have to walk into town up a short but steep hill to get there. We came via the route that leads you to the main gate.

From a plaque in the church (translated and edited): Built around 1440 (time of Joan of Arc), Sante Marie- Madeleine is Gothic in style although the walls and narrow openings are Romanesque. This came about as a result of the church being built as part of the defensive wall of the city, found on three of its sides. It is thus a fortress church, (of which there are few- ed). There is a nave and two aisles. The sanctuary is not quite in the alignment of the nave, which gives the church a leaning character. This is due to the configuration of the fortifications, perhaps giving it a spiritual meaning by seeing the bowed head of Christ on the cross. A series of floor elevations: past the door main, we climb six steps to reach the entrance to the nave. At the end of it, we access to the choir by two steps, then into the sanctuary (ed) by three other steps, which produces a permanent ascent, from entry to sanctuary, and illustrates the spiritual path of Christian. The church gives the impression of great homogeneity. The nave is made up of seven spans. It is supported by large octagonal pillars (five of each side) Vaults and edges offer many decorative elements, particularly at the base of the edges (lamp bases) where we find plant decorations, animals and even small characters, a few grotesque ones, including devil figures.

There are signs of human habitation since circa 2500 BC, leaving behind the pottery they made, I imagine. The present humans specialize in making galettes, a sweet or savory flat bread. It is made with flour and butter, and in at least one recipe I have seen, they put in a bit of vinegar for the savory type. We ordered a tomato sauce, mozzarella and oregano version. It’s a pizza, other than the crust is softer, probably harder to make a crusty bottom given the butter. They are also into tulips, somehow connected with looking for a cancer cure.

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A savory galette

In the Saone in Lyon

Il Barbe is an island in the Saone River. It’s springtime and the river flow is up, overflowing some of the riverside sidewalks.

On the island was the home of a 5th century abbey. It was dismantled during the French revolution. Today there are beautiful stone houses and a magnificent church. See watercolor painting below.

Old houses on Ile Barbe, Lyon
church tower
Church on Ile Barbe

There’s been a bridge to the island since the 17th century. There’s a modern one in place now.

Houses on ile barbe, water color
Houses on Ile Barbe, Lyon, France. This area is private so we had no access. Looks really neat. Photos above show it from the river side

We got there on a local bus. You can get weekly tickets for €22 via the app, which I learned about as we were standing in line to get the paper version, which is €5 more. Once installed and you buy the tickets with your credit card, you simply click on your phone to activate the screen light (you do not have to unlock) and hold it over the scan pad at the metro entrance or inside the bus.

Fallas 2024 rocks on

Starting March 1 each year, Fallas is an annual celebration of renewal, a kind of out with the old and in with the new, clean out the shop and closet to create something out of scrap. Well that’s the way it began, morphing into an over the top celebration of, well, pretty much whatever you want, most using a wood/foam construction to create these gravity defying sculptures as well as the smaller ones, called Ninots which largely target children. Photos below the videos.

For an explanation of what this World Heritage event is all about, see Fallas- what it’s all about

Here is a link to the midnight fireworks of March 17, in the City of Arts section of Valencia

Here is March 17th mascleta at 2 pm at the main square

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In the Rusafa neighborhood of Valencia.

Huge numbers of people arrive from all over Spain, Europe and the rest of the world. It is a family centered event. Kids as well as adults participate in just about everything. There are food trucks and cocktail stands galore, with very little drunkenness especially considering the numbers. It is loud, with firecrackers readily available and employed even by the smallest of children, generally following the requirements of adult supervision and training for members of the Casals, the clubs that organize the sculpture production and doa lot of the partying as well as sponsoring the Fallera Mayor and Fallera Infantil, the adult and child queens of the entire event.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/195152940@N05/53595108564/in/dateposted-public/
rusafa fallas 5
lights in rusafa 1
A good time in the lights of the Rusafa neighborhood
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The Fallas Pilar in construction, going on to place third in the Special Classs (the biggest sculptures)
Pilar 1
We watched them add pieces to the Pilar Fallas
Pilar 2

Portrait of María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick

María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick
María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick, 39 x 50cm/16 x 19,″ Conte pencils in white and sepia on gray pastel paper

This is an updated version of this Conte drawing. Eugenia married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1853 and was the Empress of France from 1853-1870 when Napoleaon was deposed. See my article about her at https://garyjkirkpatrick.com/the-kirkpatrick-empress-of-france/

The Kirkpatrick Empress of France

Born in Granada, Spain, María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick (1826-1920) is the most highly placed and famous character in the Kirkpatrick family tree. From an aristocratic family, she became Empress of France when she married Napoleon III in 1853. I do not know when our trees cross, although it is likely before 1600 when Scots began to relocate to Ireland in large numbers, and perhaps well before. No claims to the throne coming from me!

Her grandfather was the Scotsman William Kirkpatrick of Closeburn ((1764–1837), who was US Consul from 1800-1817, and he was a wine merchant in Malaga, Spain. He’d exiled in Spain after supporting the Stuart pretensions to the throne made returning to Scotland problematic. As United States Consul in Malaga between 1800 and 1817, William Kirkpatrick excelled in commerce, with excellent connections in Europe and America. ” Allied with similar families from across Europe, the Kirkpatricks revolutionized trade and industry in southern Spain and even had a hand in introducing grapevines to Australia.” Geni

María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick
María Eugenia Ignacia Agustina de Palafox y Kirkpatrick, 39 x 50cm/16 x 19″

His daughter and mother to Eugenia was María Manuela Enriqueta Kirkpatrick de Closeburn y de Grevigné. Eugenia’s father was Don Cipriano de Palafox y Portocarrero, Grandee of Spain, 15th Duke of Peñaranda de Duero, 9th Count of Montijo, 15th Count of Teba, 8th Count of Ablitas, 8th Count of Fuentidueña, 14th Marquess of Ardales, 17th Marquess of Moya and 13th Marquess of la Algaba. Her mother, María Manuela Enriqueta Kirkpatrick de Closeburn y de Grevigné, gave birth to María Francisca de Sales “Paca” de Palafox Portocarrero y Kirkpatrick, who became Duchess of Alba, and later to Eugenia. There was a son who died young.

In 1834 María Manuela Enriqueta took daughters Eugenia and her older sister to Paris, fleeing a cholera outbreak. There the red haired Eugenia became an athletic and affable student, if mediocre academically. She liked horseback riding and swimming. She was very interested in politics and came to support the Bonapartist cause. Eugenia met Napoleon at a reception he hosted after he became the President of the Second Republic at the Elysée Palace on April 12, 1849. They wed on 29 January 1853 in a civil ceremony at the Tuileries in Paris, which is connected to the Louvre, and on the 30th in a religious ceremony at Notre Dame Cathedral.

Napoléon and Eugénie had one child together, Napoléon, Prince Imperial (1856–1879). They lived in England after their exile. She died on a visit to Spain.

Emperor Napoléon III and Eugenia de Palafox Portocarrero y Kirkpatrick
Empress Eugenia with Emperor Napoléon III and Prince Napoleón Eugenio Luis (b 1856) circa 1858

Our guide at Closeburn Castle, María Navarro de Sepúlveda, said Eugenia was on the wild side. For example she purportedly enraged the Ottoman Sultan by taking a son in her arm. She supported many conservative causes, reflected in her staunch support of monarchies. She opposed the unification of Italy, in large measure due to her loyalty to the Pope. On the other hand, she advocated equality for women, supporting such causes as the effort to make George Sand the first female member of the Académie Française. She was a supporter of the arts, establishing the Musée Chinois at Fontainebleau.

She was no wall flower, that seems certain. She was active in governing France, officially representing the Emperor when he traveled outside France, while acting as his adviser on many matters. Among other official activities, she was present at the opening of the Suez Canal. She opposed a Prussian candidate for the vacant Spanish throne in the controversy that precipitated the Franco-German War of 1870. See Britannica.com

She had a strong influence on fashion and was memorialized in film. The Eugénie hat, popularized by Greta Garbo, was worn dramatically tilted and drooped over one eye. More representative of the empress’ actual apparel was the late 19th-century paletot, a coat with bell sleeves and a single button enclosure at the neck. Her character played a role in six films, and in the miniseries Sisi of 2009 vintage. The asteroid 45 Eugenia was named after her. She has a place in the official website of the Chateau of Versailles. There is much more of note. There are numerous books and articles about Eugenia:

Aubry, Octave (1939). Eugenie: Empress of the French. London: Cobden-Sanderson. Du Camp, Maxime (1949). Souvenirs d’un Demi-Siècle: Au Temps de Louis-Philippe et de Napoléon III 1830-1870 (in French). Hachette. Duff, David (1978). Eugenie and Napoleon III. New York: William Morrow. ISBN0688033385. Filon, Augustin (1920). Recollections of the Empress Eugénie. London: Cassell and Company, Ltd. Retrieved 14 August 2013. Horne, Alistair (1965). The Fall of Paris: The Siege and the Commune 1870-71. New York: St. Martin’s Press. Kurtz, Harold (1964). The Empress Eugénie: 1826–1920. Boston: Houghton Mifflin. LCCN64006541. Leroy, Alfred (1969). The Empress Eugénie. London: Heron Books. McQueen, Alison (2011). Empress Eugénie and the Arts: Politics and Visual Culture in the Nineteenth Century. Burlington: Ashgate. ISBN9781409405856. “Hôtel du Palais”. Merimée. Ministry of Culture. Retrieved 10 June 2013. Prince, Danforth; Porter, Darwin (2010). Frommer’s France 2011. John Wiley & Sons. ISBN9780470641774. Sencourt, Robert (1931). The Life of the Empress Eugénie. London: Ernest Benn. Seward, Desmond (2004). Eugénie: The Empress and her Empire. Stroud: Sutton. ISBN0-7509-29790. Stoddart, Jane T. (1906). The Life of the Empress Eugénie. London: Hodder & Stoughton. Tschudi, Clara (1899). Eugenie: Empress of the French. A Popular Sketch. London: Swan Sonnenschein & Co. Wawro, Geoffrey (2003). The Franco-Prussian War: The German Conquest of France in 1870-1871. Cambridge University Press. ISBN9780521584364. See Wikipedia

I Mak Sikker: Roger de Kirkpatrick and Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland

I Mak Sikker (or ‘Siccar’)

My ancient relative Roger de Kirkpatrick was possibly my 17th great-grandfather. He was born circa 1280 at Closeburn Castle. He died at Caerlaverock Castle, Dumfries-shire , Scotland circa 1322. He was involved in the successful quest of Robert the Bruce for the Scottish crown in the later part of the first decade of the 14th century, for which he achieved a degree of fame.

In 1286 Alexander III died, leaving only a three year old granddaughter to succeed him. She died at age 7 on the way to Scotland to marry six-year-old son Edward of Carnarvon, an arrangement designed to solve the succession problem. Some thirteen contenders for the throne emerged. Civil war threatened. The Scots asked Edward I of England to decide the matter, which he did, in favor of John Balliol., passing by the grandfather of Robert, also Robert the Bruce although probably written as Robert de Brus, whose claim came by virtue of his grandfather, David I of Scotland.

Edward undermined John’s subsequent rule. This led to the rebellion by William Wallace, subject of the film “Braveheart,” based on the epic poem The Actes and Deidis of the Illustre and Vallyeant Campioun Schir William Wallace. Wallace’s effort ended with his execution, brutal as was then common, leading in turn to Bruce and Red Corwyn becoming Joint Guardians.

Things were going poorly between Corwyn and Bruce aka Brus. The story goes that to resolve matters between them Bruce had proposed an agreement whereby either Bruce turn over his lands in exchange for Corwyn’s support of Bruce’s claims to the throne, or vice versa. Corwyn chose the land over the crown. However he backed out of the agreement, reporting the matter to Edward I. Robert set out for Lochmaben Castle in Scotland, meeting Roger and others there, proceeding to Dumfries, near Kirkpatrick-Fleming, to meet with Comyn.

The meeting took place on February 10, 1306. “Comyn, perhaps suspecting that his treachery had been discovered, appointed the Grey Friars Church in the Convent of the Minorites. Here Bruce passionately upbraided him for his treachery, a violent altercation ensued, Comyn gave him the lie, whereupon he instantly drew his dagger and stabbed him. Hastening from the Church, he met his friends, who seeing him hastening from the Church, and pale, eagerly inquired the cause. I doubt,’ said he, ‘I have slain the Comyn.’ ‘Doubt’ st thou,’ said Kirkpatrick, ‘ I mak sicker’ <sic>’ and rushed into the Church. See Kirkpatrick of Closeburn.

Churches were considered sacrosanct, making them a safe place. Both Roger and Robert were subsequently ex-communicated.

Here’s a slightly different account “Running from the church he <Robert> met his two friends, Sir Roger Kirkpatrick and Sir James Lindsay, who asked ³What tidings?²… I doubt I have slain Comyn,²” whereupon Kirkpatrick cried, ³You doubt, I mak sickar (I¹ll make certain)². Roger ran into the church, killed Comyn with his daggar .<sic> and also Comyn¹s uncle, Sir Robert Comyn, who had come to his nephew¹s rescue. For this act of sacrilege in a sacred church, Pope Clement V excommunicated both Bruce and Kirkpatrick.² In 1306 Robert “…commanded Sir Roger to adopt as his crest a hand grasping a bloody dagger with the words I mak Sickar¹, to commemorate ³his swift vengeance on one who had been a traitor to his country. ” See Tripod.com

Whichever of these two accounts is more accurate, “I mak Sikker” is something they all have in common. This motto was granted to the Kirkpatricks by Robert after he became king, shortly after this event. The motto remains on the coat of arms to this day.

I mak siccar, Kirkpatrick Coat of Arms, Closeburn Parish Church
Kirkpatrick Coat of Arms at the Closeburn Parish Church
Closeburn Parish Church
The coat of arms is right above the arch

The event is commemorated on a nearby plaque on Castle Street in Dumfries “… to signify the location of the Comyn murder, such a crucial event in the history of Scotland. “See Historyscotland.com

plaque2
Plaque in Dumfries, a town near the Castle.

Robert (b 1274) reigned from 1306 until his death in 1329, succeeded by his son David II. Roger served as emissary to Edward during Robert’s Reign.

In the next post I will write about the origins of the de Kirkpatrick family.