Author: Gary Kirkpatrick

  • There be monsters

    Cruising the Mittlelandkaanal from Berlin to the Netherlands means you share the waterways with many barges, some of them with monstrous dimensions. We locked through with one double (two barges tied together and propelled by one pusher) measuring over 200 meters.

    When you arrive at a German lock you moor at a location specified for ‘sportboots.’ There’s an intercom to check in with the lock keeper, some of whom speak English. You are letting them know you are there, and waiting for them to tell you to enter. Small boats almost always enter behind larger vessels. If so some reason the larger ship can not stop in time they damage the lock, not you.

    The locks on the canals connecting Berlin with the Rhine, and from that river to the Netherlands if you so choose, are huge, are over two hundred meters long and 7+ meters in depth. Most have floating bollards that you can easily loop your line and then sit back, although we keep a eye on things as the water rises or falls.

    In locks of this size there is little turbulence, but if a large ship hits the throttle too hard small boats are knocked about. To avoid problems we not only stay tied to the bollards but wait for the large ships to exit the lock before we proceed carefully, attentive to strong currents from the huge props.

    I was on the Mississippi River in New Orleans when we came upon an oil tanker. Large waves were coming from it. I assumed it was from the huge ship’s props, but then the smaller boat carrying the port captain, who takes over when the ship is close to docking, sped away. The waves stopped as he disappeared.

    On German canals and rivers there are designated moorings for overnight stays. Large ships usually have their own spaces and ‘sportboots’ their own as well. Outside Hanover we stayed in a mooring near grocery stores which allowed both large ships and small boats, so there are exceptions but they are marked.

    We have been fortunate weather wise thus far. The early mornings are below 5c/40f but it’s been warming to 15-18c/60-65f in the sunny afternoons.

  • Magdeburg, Germany, home of the Reformation. And a schnitzel.

    From Potsdam to Genthin

    With cold mornings and sunny afternoons in the forecast, we set off from our winter berth in Potsdam after making a few plumbing repairs due to the winter freeze- they skated on the lake for the first time in years. Heading towards the Netherlands, we chose the southern route that leads to the Mittlelandkaanal. After a night in Genthin we stopped at a free mooring in Burg. It’s less than 30 minutes by train to the ancient city of Magdeburg, with a current population of 242,000.

    Founded by Charlemagne in 805, Magdenburg Otto I made it his seat, ruling Saxony from 836-873. He was the Holy Roman Emperor from 962 until his death in 873. Otto I defeated the Magyars at the Battle of Lechfeld in 955, stopping the Hungarian invasion of Western Europe. He was buried in the Cathedral.

    Magdeburg’s Town Law, granting the right to hold trade exhibitions and conventions, spread through much of Europe in the early Middle Ages. As one of Germany’s largest and most prosperous cities, in good measure because it sits on the Elbe River, Magdeburg joined the Hanseatic League in the 13th century. By then it had 20,000 residents, considered large at the time.

    Martin Luther attended school here as a 12 year old. In 1524 Luther began the movement that led to the Protestant Reformation. Magdeburg was a major force in the effort to break from the corruption of the Church.

    Things did not always go smoothly for the city. In 1188 it was devastated by fire, it suffered 25,000 deaths during the 30 years war, and its old center was largely destroyed by Allied bombing in WW2. There was a POW camp and three subcamps of Buchenwald holding Jews. Dozens were murdered in an effort to cover up the crimes against humanity as the Allies advanced. More were led on death marches as the war ended. It was in East Germany during the Cold War, its development stunted by failed economic policies and a police state government.

    Magdeburg’s center after WW2
    Hundertwasser House in Magdeburg

    We visited the Kulturhistorische Museum Magdeburg (KHM). Most notable is the Magdeburger Reiter (Magdeburg Rider). It might represent Emperor Otto, Otto II or III.  The rider is accompanied by two female figures, usually interpreted as allegories of the Roman Empire and the Slavic peoples, but sometimes Empress Adelaide and Empress Theophanu.  The statue was brightly painted.

    Magdeburger Reiter (Magdeburg Rider
    The Elba in Magdeburg

    Schnitzel and beer, oh so German, in a super local joint!

    Two days before Magdeburg we moored for the night at a marina called Havel Marin just outside Brandenburg. We found just one restaurant within walking or biking distance. It sits on a private road, a bit off putting as you wonder if you are trespassing. We followed the one turn off leading to a small house. Was this it? There is no sign outside. We might have left if there had not been a group of people sitting under an awning drinking beer.

    We ventured inside and only then were we sure we had found the place. There is a sizeable, well stocked bar and tables. The only employee and likely the owner reminds of Ichabod Crane, very tall and slender. We could not tell at first who he was, an employee or just another guest as he was not in any sort of uniform. He speaks no English, but somehow we figured out he works there. So what about a menu so we can see what’s on offer and point to things? Nope, there is no menu. Our online source had mentioned schnitzels so we used that word and he nodded. Then he said something that sounded like the Dutch for egg. It turns out the plate includes a small schnitzel, a few cherry tomatoes, slices of sweet pickles and a fried egg on top of the breaded pork. Fortunately I got him to hold the egg. It was a so so dinner but at €17 for two including two .5 liter beers it was a very reasonable bargain.

    Schniitzel and beer, oh so German!

    More to come on our journey west.

    For my article on Brandenburg see https://garyjkirkpatrick.com/brandenburg/

    Brandenburg Steeple
    Brandernburg, Germany
  • Viking (ink drawing)

    Viking at Geldese Hout Bridge, NL

    Drawing of our 12 meter boat

  • Paintings and drawings from recent voyages

    We are about to being our last season aboard Viking. Here are paintings and drawings from recent voyages plus some from Italy

    Music by Bobby Darin

  • Not Just Another Pretty Face II/ Más Que Otra Cara Bonita II (painting)

    Not Just Another Pretty Face II/ Más Que Otra Cara Bonita II, acrylics on Canson paper, 100 x 70cm, /39 x 27″

    For sale at https://www.saatchiart.com/art/Painting-Not-Just-Another-Pretty-Face-Mas-Que-Otra-Cara-Bonita-II/664581/13733277/view

    This is a second version of this piece. The first belongs to Dones de Picanya.

    From Saatach’s description

    I have done many paintings and drawings inspired by musical performances. This second original acrylic painting on paper, “Not Just Another Pretty Face/ Mas Que Otra Cara Bonita”, is the latest in a series of music related work. The piano player takes center stage, rendered with both abstract and expressionist elements. The large painting is a study in contrasts: light and dark, color and tone, and a blend of artistic styles.

    There’s a dynamic interplay between the abstract, realistic and expressionist. The figurative elements of the piano player are grounded in reality, while the surrounding abstract textures evoke the passionate atmosphere of a live musical performance.

    This piece makes a dramatic statement, vibrant energy and thought-provoking composition.

  • Singapore During WWII: the Former Ford Factory

    Singapore During WWII: the Former Ford Factory

    The Former Ford Factory is now a museum about Singapore during WWII. Built in 1941 as a state of the art facility, it was the first Ford production plant in SE Asia after 15 years building cars in garages. In this very building the British surrendered to the Japanese on February 13, 1942, the office they used left as it was.

    The Brits should have invested more in the defense of Singapore during the 1920’s and 30’s, but given the distances and territory involved it simply did not have enough soldiers and equipment. It’s not that they did not try. In the early 1920’s the British began constructing a naval base, finishing in 1939. However it was too small, only able to support about 20% of the British fleet. The plan was for Singapore to hold out until the rest of the fleet arrived. The Japanese capture of Singapore took about 60 days. The British fleet still had not arrived.

    Japan began bombing Singapore on December 8, 1941, hitting Chinatown and Raffles Place. They landed in Malaysia at the same time. After the 1937 Japanese attack on China many Singaporeans joined the Singapore Volunteers Corps and the Royal Navy Volunteer Reserve, others the Civilian Defense Corps and the Medical Auxiliary Services. Some helped build air raid shelters. These efforts, like the British naval base, were of little use.

    The experienced soldiers of the 5th and 18th divisions of the Japanese armies led the ground assault. Within a day they destroyed or damaged more than half of British largely obsolete aircraft and captured airfields in Malaysia. They belatedly formed eight civilian battalions of 150 people each to build defensive fortifications and others, with just ten days of training, were assigned to defend Jurong Road. Fighting in Singapore itself, which began in early February, 1942, lasted less than a week.

    British Surrender

    On 13 February 1942, Japan captured the Ford factory. On 15 February 1942, Lieutenant-General A. E. Percival unconditionally surrendered in the boardroom, determining the fate of Singapore for the next three and a half years. https://corporate.nas.gov.sg/former-ford-factory/overview/.

    The British surrendered to the Japanese in this very office in the Old Ford Factory Museum. Photos from the meeting scroll on the screen
    Japanese ship entering Singapore’s harbor (museum display)

    Japanese Rule

    There were some 100,000 POW’s and several thousand European citizens at the time of the Japanese takeover. About 3000 were marched to Changi Prison and the nearby barracks, designed to hold 800. Civilians passed them food and money along the way, despite the risks. Once imprisoned they were always hungry, yet made to clear war damage, bury corpses and build memorials to Japanese dead.

    The Japanese massacred thousands of Chinese in February and March of 1942. There were other random acts of violence and intimidation. By 1943 the violence had abated, but there were still arbitrary arrests and torture. Food, fuel and medicine were in short supply in a city of one million with few natural resources. Many survived on what they were able to grow. Starting in September, 1942 many were sent to work on the Siam-Burma Railway. Huge numbers died under the horrific working conditions. Approximately 17,000 were housed in barracks designed for 800.

    Japan’s government renamed Singapore to Syonan-to (Light of the the South), changed the clocks to Japanese time and the calendar to their own. They took over the businesses of all Western companies and some Chinese as well. Businesses were made to produce goods for the Japanese war effort. There was strict rationing and movement was restricted. There was high official unemployment but there were illegal jobs, black markets and a large number of off the books street vendors.

    To reduce overcrowding the Japanese opened farmland, hoping to relocate 300,000 Singapore in Endau, Johor, Malaysia. Some 12,000 Chinese were the first to be sent, successfully establishing farms. The second effort was not successful as the land was not suited for farming, while thousands died from malaria. The effort ceased after that.

    In resistance, Malaysia Communist Chinese formed the Malayan People’s Anti-Japanese Army. Those aligned with the Kuomintang joined Force 136. Allied forces engaged in sabotage, sinking seven Japanese vessels in the Singapore harbor. There were 11 US air raids, ending in March, 1945.

    Post War Singapore

    The Japanese forces of Singapore and Jahore surrendered aboard HMS Sussex. The British returned in September, 1945, welcomed by the locals. There was much need for welfare and relief. The Allied Land Forces – South East Asia tried only 131 men for war crimes. Only two were sentenced to death. The Singapore Chinese Appeal Committee unsuccessfully asked for additional death penalties.

    On April 1, 1946 civilian administration resumed as a Crown Colony. As in Brittan, the government became involved in education, housing, health and social welfare. While the British introduced self-government in Malaysia it did not do so in Singapore. Communist insurrections in China, Malay, Burma, Indochina and the Philippines were a major concern, with Singapore serving as a base for defending against Communist expansion. Malaysia became firmly anti-communist in the 1950’s. As a result Singapore became part of Malaysia on 16 September 1963 following a merger with Malaya, North Borneo, and Sarawak.

    Singapore became an independent republic on 9 August 1965 after its expulsion from Malaysia. It has evolved into not only a major port with its modern facilities but also a major finance center after a difficult period following independence.

  • Rural Singapore, watercolor painting

    Rural Singapore, watercolor 21 x 30 cm/ 8.3 x 11.7″

    Adding to the long series of watercolor paintings from my travels, Rural Singapore is the first from that trip. The large leaves, variety of colors vegetation, some which is not quite like what I have seen before, yield a strong impression of lushness befitting a warm and humid climate. The abstract elements provide diversity. We are doing more than just giving you what a photo could, another level of variety in form and color with which to feast the eye.

    To purchase, go to https://www.saatchiart.com/art/Painting-Singapore-Rural/664581/13685391/view

  • Winter Canal

    Winter Canal, charcoal, , 64 x 40 cm/25 x 16″

    Continuing with my efforts in charcoal, this is a winter scene in the Netherlands.

    We’ve traveled extensively on the canals of the Netherlands. Not long ago these canals froze every winter and to this day the Dutch people are over-represented in the Winter Olympic speed skating events.

    This canal is located near ‘s-Hertogenbosch. People call it Den Bosch. There are some 160,000 residents. It is the capital of the province of North Brabant and its fourth largest city by population in the Netherlands. It is famous for the Bossche bol – called chocoladebol locally. It is a puff pastry filled with delicious thick whipped cream and covered with chocolate.

  • Looking Out

    Acrylics on canvas, 73 x 60 cm/ 29 x 23.5″

    For sale at https://www.saatchiart.com/art/Painting-Looking-Out/664581/13637737/view

    Another in my series of Hopper inspired paintings, a woman looks out over a golden field with a thick green forest at its edge. Figures walk in a line towards the dark woods, phantoms in the foreground. Completed in 2021, modified 2025.

    From Saatachi’s description: https://www.saatchiart.com/art/Painting-Looking-Out/664581/13637737/view

    “Looking Out” is an original acrylic painting on canvas, inspired by the iconic style of Edward Hopper. The expressionistic landscape depicts a woman gazing out over a golden field that meets a thick, verdant forest. The scene takes on a symbolic and mysterious quality with the addition of fantasy figures walking towards the dark woods.

    The artist’s use of colorful greens, blues, and yellows creates a vibrant and captivating image. The painting’s technique and materials enhance the overall expressionistic effect, inviting viewers to explore the narrative and emotions within the piece.