Gary Kirkpatrick

Wispy humidity-laced clouds welcome the visitor on the descent to Singapore’s waterfront airport. Lush greenness contrasts with glass and metal skyscrapers, all sitting together in the warm bath that is its climate. It was a quick pass through the passport scanners. My nephew was waiting for me. He didn’t need the sign others waiting for visitors held up. Once I’d jokingly held one up. It said, “Wife.”

He was ready right then and there to zoom me through the city’s tree and flower lined streets in his new and ample Chinese built e-car. We cruised on the “wrong side,” as Singapore was a British colony, to take short walks in the humid sunlight. Jet lag be damned, we were going to the National Museum for the history review it offers, abbreviated since the main exhibit is closed pending renovations.

I should have not have been surprised by the modernity of the museum’s building, given the skyscrapers dominating the central business district. I was, nonetheless, because in my mind I had images of colonial Britain, with its bamboo wicker structures, ceiling fans, khaki uniforms and condescending attitudes.

What I noticed immediately after left side driving was the signage- English predominates. Yet there are four official languages: English, Mandarin, Malay, and Tamil. English serves as the main language for government, education, and business, while the other three correspond to the major ethnic groups in the country but rarely appear other than on restaurants and temples. Most people speak at least some English.

The Republic of Singapore is pegged to the southern end of the Malaysian peninsula just 1 degree north of the equator, separated by a narrow strait crossed by a bridge. Aside from the main island there are some 65 others that seven million call home. There are straits also to either side, with the Singapore Strait to the south. Before the British, Singapore was part of various thalocratic empires, governing bodies primarily sea based with little control over inland areas. When the British arrived Singapore was a fishing village, if the Museum’s narrative is to be believed.

Its modern history starts with Stamford Raffles. He represented the British East India Trading Company. On January 28, 1829 he landed with a squadron of Company ships to meet with the local chief, Temmenggong Abdul Rahman. Agreement to allow Company access in hand, Raffles persuaded the Sultan Hussein Shah of Johor on the Mlaysian peninsula to sign the Treat of Friendship and Alliance on February 6, 1819. The Singapore River then rapidly developed into a port area welcoming traders and travelers from all over.

Raffles involved the Company in the succession struggle of the throne of Johor, and after trading rights with the Dutch East India Company, the British came to control the entire island in 1824. Singapore became the seat of government. In 1867 the British consolidated control as a result of the Straits Settlement.

Singapore was built on the backs of migrant laborers, who worked in construction and loaded the ships. They suffered in the heat and humidity, working long hours for low wages. Indian convicts did most of the hard work building bridges and roads between 1825 and 1873. The 1920’s and 30’s brought Samsui women from China. Best known for their red scarfs, they came in search of construction and industrial jobs. They were mostly from the Sanshui District of modern-day Guangdong, a province in southern China.

Migrants lived in cramped shared quarters in unsanitary conditions. Together they made for a diverse mixture of Oriental cultures, with costumes from the Levant to China. The wealthy walked around in silk robes and satin, while Jews and Arabs stuck to dark rich silks, Turkey red and pure white Madras muslim. Much is documented in photography starting in the mid 19th century. Migration continues, with over 40% of its current population is foreign born.

Singapore became a target of the Japanese expansionism of the 1940’s. The locals describe it as a period of deprivation. You ate little more than your own garden could produce.

The slick exhibits in the museum provide an excellent narrative along with displays of ancient maps, travel chests and timelines. It all came at a stiff price, about $18 USD, though it’s free for residents.

It wasn’t too soon to have a snack. Singapore’s street food markets, called hawker centers, are vibrant hubs where you can find a variety of affordable and delicious dishes influenced by the country’s multicultural heritage. These open-air food courts offer a communal dining experience essential to Singapore’s food culture. There is a bewildering variety of offerings with names I did not recognize even in their English version. No matter, I have a host who’s been here and had that. What a huge difference that makes!

Hawkers are outdoors but covered. It’s warm of course, but with the roof keeping the sun and rain off and the huge running fans you’ll be comfortable enough most days. The offerings are amazingly inexpensive. A popiah, of Malaysian origin, is a sizable snack for me but a meal for many here. It cost around $5 SD, about $4 USD. For drinks there are fruit juices, soft drinks, and the occasional beer. There is no wine, which is extremely expensive. More of this complex cuisine scene anon.