Vailly-sur-Aisne is a small town in the Gran Est region of France. We were moored on the canal when a woman stopped to chat. Later she returned in her car. This is the view from her garden.
Vailly-sur-Aisne
Gary Kirkpatrick
Lots of locks, but no bagels
Leaving Reims we went back the way we came, then making a two week long circuit, tranquil except for four kilometers on the raging Marne in Epernay. The route took us to many historic and charming small towns who some 110 years ago found themselves in the midst of WWI. We visited large, well kept cemeteries filled with mostly French soldiers. Stops included the towns of small and generally charming villages: Cormicy, Bourg et Comin, Pinon, Longuiel-Annel, Compiegne, Attichy, Vic sur Aisne, Soisson, Courmelois, Epernay, Tours sur Marne, Chalons-en-Champagne, then Vitry-le-Francois.
Most of the locks on this route are controlled by the ships’ crew, using either a remote control or a twist rod that hangs over the water. Mostly we spent nights at a ‘hault nautique,” docks provided by the French waterway authority, the VNF. VNF was there quickly the time or two we needed assistance with the locks.
Many of these towns have interesting old churches. Cormicy’s is blocky, with stumpy flying buttresses. Pretty it’s not, but you can readily imagine the frightened or hopeful parishioners shivering while seated on the hard wooden benches, a seriously abused man hanging over them, as they imagined a worse fate if they did not proclaim the faith.
Bourg et Comin: the town is a short bike ride up a steep hill from the halt. There you find a very good bakery and a small grocery store. The hault nautique has water and electricity. One space at the dock was occupied by someone using this location of as a permanent mooring, not permitted by the VNF but they are lax about enforcement. This is a common problem.
At Pinon the dock was full but the Americans on a barge let us moor up while we went to the ‘gran surface’ Carrefour grocery store just a two minute walk away. Before we had even gathered our shopping bags the other barge there, a Dutch flagged commercial, headed out. We moved to the just freed space, then resumed our shopping trip after driving a stake or two into the ground, as here there are no bollards. After we left the next morning we never saw the Americans again, as they were heading north.
Compiegne has lovely Tudor houses (half-timber structures dating from the 15thc), the magnificent Joan of Arc statue facing the famous Hotel d’ Ville (City Hall). See my article at Compiegne for photos and commentary. By the bridge there is a fuel station and a boat shop well provisioned with boating items. Their mechanic helped me replace the throttle/shifting mechanism, a critical device approaching its 30th birthday.
Vic sur Aisne has a neat old castle and a hault nautique with water and electricity. The Roman road to Calais passed through here. A mile marker was found near the bridge erected by Marcus Aurelius. The first castle was built in 900. The current dates to the 17th century. It was built by Cardinal de Bernis, friend of Voltaire and Madame de Pompadour. The structure was sold as national property during the Revolution. It was rebuilt after bombing in 1918.
Soisson was founded in pre-Roman times by the Suessiones, a Gallic (aka Celtic) tribe. It assumed some importance under the Romans, then fell to Clovis I in 486 CE. After Clovis divided his kingdom among his four sons, Soisson became one of the capitals. Soisson remained important through the Merovingians, whose reign ended in 751 CE
During the Hundred Years’ War, French forces massacred English archers, while killing and raping French residents. The English retaliated by winning the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Joan of Arc liberated the town on July 23, 1429. Girl got around!
Soisson was heavily bombed in WWI. There is a memorial behind the mayor’s office.
The late 12th century cathedral is Gothic in style with some Romanesque elements. The 13th century tower duplicates that of Notre Dame in Paris.
The famous Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, once one of the most wealthy in France, was founded in the 1076 as an Augustinian monastery. The first structures were Romanesque, but were replaced by Gothic buildings in the 12th-16th centuries. Unfortunately the church was largely destroyed under Napoleon.
Its two towers are quite different. The taller is 70m/230′ in height, visible from afar. Other parts of the abbey still standing include remains of two cloisters and a 13th-century refectory. There are vestiges of structures from the middle of the 6th century.
To be continued
Wine and Cheese
Two of my favorite cheeses are featured in this painting. Rustique is a brand of Camembert. It is reliably excellent and inexpensive to boot. Chausse aux Moines, a monk made cheese, has a washed rind that makes for a delightful crusty texture in contrast with the rest of the cheese.
The French eat cheese after or in lieu of dessert, and sometimes at apero, a causal social gathering. It is usually paired with red wine. I have had it served with champagne. It is not served as an appetizer. Smoked salmon is not usually paired but I doubt I would hear any objections.
We often enjoy cheese and wine with a great baguette- something the French have mastered!
Bridge in Dokkum
Reims, a small city with a big past
Reims is pronounced Rance, the ‘a’ is a sound we do not have in English but it’s similar the the ‘a’ in ‘band with a rather nasal pronunciation. The city boasts a Roman era triumphal arch, the Port of Mars, the only remaining of four. The port was once a part of a castle destroyed in 1595. It was then integrated into the city walls, the openings filled in, and not revealed until the mid 1800’s. It now stands by itself, nicely restored.
The Port of Mars is just one of many architectural and historical delights in this city. The most notable is the Cathedral. I posted a video of the superb laser light show they perform every Thursday-Saturday night. See Light show
The Cathedral is built upon the site of the 5th century church, in its turn erected on top of the Roman baths. I would not be surprised if one day we find all were built over some important structure built by the Gauls, the city’s founders. The Cathedral is the site of the coronation of many French kings, beginning with Louis the Debonnaire in 816 , presided over by Pope Stephen IV. Pope Leo met with Charlemagne here.
Aside from the Cathedral there is another church worth visiting. The Basilica of St Remi was officially opened in 1049, before the advent of Gothic architecture, thus its heavy walls and small windows. Construction continued for centuries. As a result the nave and transept are Gothic. Charlemagne’s brother and two early kings are buried here.
The city was founded by the Remi tribe, whence the city’s name. The Remi allied with the Romans during Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. After the Roman victory the Remi’s received favorable treatment. This did not keep the Vandals out. They captured the city in 406, executing the bishop. Atila the Hun sacked the city in 451. Paris is not all that far away, today less than an hour by train. A bit more success and Atila controls today’s capital.
Reims was part of England starting in 1420, following a failed seige in 1360. The English were then expelled by the French, led by a young woman called Joan d’Arc.
Germany occupied the city and made it the seat of the governor during the Franco Prussian war of 1870-71. The Germans were back in WWI. The city and its cathedral suffered significant damage during this armed conflict, eclipsed by the massive casualties reflected in field upon field of cemeteries.
The armistice ending WWII was signed in Reims. The building remains as a museum. It was closed the day we were there, unfortunately.
The area lies on the northern edge of the Champagne production zone. The grapes used are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunie and Chardonnay almost exclusively. Other regions of France and elsewhere produce this naturally carbonated beverage but the term ‘champagne’ in Europe can only be used for wine produced here. In Burgandy it is called a ‘Crémant de Bourgogne, in Alsace it is called ‘Crémant de Alsace.’ In all there are 24 sparkling wine areas in France. Spain uses the same method. Prosecco uses vat fermentation as opposed to the bottle fermentation used here. The Champagne method was developed by a monk named Dom Perignon. Old Dom still makes champagne, although these days there are machines that turn the bottles. Many Champagne houses are located here, allowing for visits to the cellars where they explain the process.
Reims is not all Champagne and great old structures. It has a lively pedestrian shopping zone with eateries up the Oise. Petite Sale is a traditional dish, lentils with salted pork, although on my wanderings I did not see it on a menu.
Chaource is from this region. It is a soft cheese. If you can get a good one it’s richly flavored and creamy. Truffles are a big deal, as is a pink biscuit. There is a regional mustard and a smoked ham as well. Boudin blanc, a white sausage, is a traditional product. Andouillettes de Troyes is made from the large intestine and stomach, onions, salt and pepper. I wish I hadn’t known.
Reims Cathedral and its Fabulous Light Show #regalia
Notre Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims) is an ancient church done up in High Gothic Style. From Thursday to Sunday they project a superbly produced free light show after dark. Last night it started at 2245h.
The Cathedral is the traditional location for the coronation of the French kings. In its previous incarnation as a Romanesque building it was the site of the baptism of Clovis I in the early 6th century. Construction of the current church began in the 13th century after the destruction by fire of the previous structure. It features flying buttresses like the ones at Notre Dame in Paris, allowing for a well light interior. It is owned by the government of France, which pays for its care. The Roman Catholic Church is allowed use.
After the severe bombing damage of WWI, when it was used as a hospital, the building was restored, with three windows by the Russian born Chagal. The Rockefeller Foundation donated to the project. In the 1990’s they found the 5th century baptistry along with parts of the original church, itself built upon the site of the baths.
In 816 Louis the Pious was crowned by Pope Stephen IV. From Henry I in 1027 most French kings were crowned here. It was held by the English but returned to the French by none other than the 20 year old Joan of Arc in 1429.
Reams have been written about Reims (actually pronounced something like ‘Rance,’ no ‘M.”) There’s a PhD thesis around every corner. Just looking at its main facade is more than an eyeful, even though the main entrance is currently covered. There are more statues than I can count without a large photo print.
Garybob says check it out! Get there from Paris on the TGV. It does not take long.
Stepping our way through the Canal des Ardennes
There was no rain.
Thus began our early morning journey through the 26 step locks of the Canal des Ardennes. We are extra thankful. Since there are many low bridges we must lower our rain hood. We could have been steering in the rain for the next seven or so hours. Instead we enjoyed more sunshine than we have seen we started this year’s boat travels.
The locks are remote controlled. We only had to wait for help at one lock that would not open. A VNF employee was there within minutes. Another lock closed and emptied while we waited, then filled and let us in. Otherwise the system worked well.
The locks were not turbulent. We are descending. When you are ascending you are much more likely to experience turbulence.
We made the journey in just five hours, instead of the typical seven hours. Stopping at Attigny, we spoke to the Danish couple also moored there. The day before it took them 9 hours, having lots of problems with the locks. At one point they had to wait an hour for assistance. We saw VNF employees everywhere. Many were mowing or doing other maintenance chores near the locks or along the way, or driving back and forth along the canal. We lucked out.
After the last lock on the Canal you enter the River Aisne after passing through a lock, then into its canal. As you approach Attigny things get rather narrow.
Finding our Meuse
Winding our way down the Sambre from Manage to the river Meuse at Namur, we turned into the current of the swollen waterway. For the next 143 kilometers we would be pushing against the run off from the extraordinary rainfall in the northeast parts of France and the southeast parts of Belgium. We skipped by both Namur and Dinant, having been there previously, but also so we could more quickly arrive at the Canal des Ardennes in France. Once there we’d be out of the current. It’s 46 kilometers to the French border, then 97 kilometers in France. We must traverse some 40 locks, each of which takes at least 20 minutes.
Rain followed us much of the way. Combined with the strong, sometimes intimidating current, it created a darkened mood over the journey. When the rain lifted and the current fell off or disappeared when we were in the short canals after locks, the mood turned around, even if briefly. Getting to the Ardennes promised a more pleasant experience.
After a grinding week we entered the Canal des Ardennes. We were greeted by a friendly woman at the fuel dock. We topped up our fuel and water tanks, then docked in front of the lock per her instructions as it is a no mooring zone. Then we went straight for the one bar in this tiny collection of businesses, houses, rent boats and private small craft. A few people live on their boat, in addition to perhaps a few dozen residents. Bigger towns lie ahead, through dozens of locks, including 21 locks in the space of just seven kilometers as we climb the hills.
So Inclined- Belgium’s lift technology
From Tournai we made our way easterly, stopping for the night on a dock equipped for large barges just outside Ascenseur 4 – on the old Canal du Centre. There are four elevator locks on the old canal, replaced by the new canal and the Strepy-Thieu lock that bypasses the four locks, raising boats 73 meters/240 feet straight up in a single motion. This saves hours compared to the four old elevators.
Nearby our mooring there’s a store called Bella Sicilia. No choice, we just had to go there, even with rain threatening. The recommended route took us through a closed-off underpass along a muddy unused dirt road for a few hundred meters. Then it was a wooded country lane into town.
When we arrived there was a sign saying Bella Sicilia was permanently closed. Disappointed and about to leave, we saw that behind us stood Bella Sicilia reborn, open and doing business in a much bigger space. Inside it’s an instant journey to Palermo. Almost everything is Italian branded. There’s a huge deli counter, five employees serving the locals. You can choose among a huge variety of stuffed breads, and several arancini, the rice balls that are THE street food of Palermo. All this and more in a tiny country town in a very small country far from Italy.
I learned that almost all the employees speak Italian. I spoke with a woman who wanted to know where we were from and the like.
After two daysat the dock by the elevator lock we went to the Strépy-Thieu Boat Life. We were about to rise 73 meters straight up.
Four hours later at the Viesville lock the lock keeper said it was closed for a week due to objects that had damaged the mechanism. Fortunately our batteries were full and there was plenty of water in the tank. We sailed back two hours to Menage, a tiny village with a brand new barge dock, directly across from Le Nautic Lodge, a restaurant we enjoyed several years back.
Manage has grocery stores, bars and bakeries, as well as a train station. The train to Brussels takes just a bit over an hour with one change. We visited the Victor Horta Museum, a house designed and lived in by the architect Victor Horta (1861-1949), before taking a self-guided walking tour to see a half dozen turn of the century Art Nouveau houses, some designed by him.
After four days near Manage we again sailed away from our destination for about two hours to the WSV (abbreviation for a marina owned and run by members) at Ittre. We’d been there before and found the location to be pleasant even if barely adequate for a boat of our size. The people were very friendly and helpful on our last visit. Getting to town to make purchases requires ascending a long and very steep hill. A member drove us there to get a few things that time.
On the way to Ittre we passed through the Plan Incliné de Ronquières, the Inclined Plane, a lock that moves boats from one level to the next in a large basin that is moved along rails.
After sidling up to the visitors dock we helped a couple dock their boat. In turn they bought us a beer. There’s Chouffe on tap, one of Belgium’s best that is available nation-wide, exported as well. We spent the next few hours talking. Our story is unusual in many respects, being Americans deep in the Belgium countryside on our own boat after starting far away in Haarlem. In boat terms that is a good distance. Many boaters are confined to local travel due to time and budget constraints so are interested to learn more.
Afterwards we saw an email from Wallonie notifications. The blocked lock had been cleared. Tomorrow we have several hours to go before we get back on course, including another trip through the Plan Inclinee and several locks with 7 meter drops.
Our friendly neighbors for the night left at 9:30 the next morning. When we arrived at the lock at 11:30, they were still waiting. The backlog of commercial vessels was just clearing.
The Cathedral at Tournai
