blog | Gary J. Kirkpatrick Art and Travel Blog

Down with Nancy (the city, not the person)

06/09/202405/09/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

After another beautiful cruise through the gorgeous Vosges Mountains (see The Grand Est), this time with friends, we came back to Nancy, one of France’s delightful cities and the capital of the Lorraine. Nancy (Gallic Nanciaco, possibly from a Gaulish personal name) has a wonderful pedestrian old town center stuffed with restored half timber buildings. The city’s a center point of Art Nouveau, magnificently displayed in the Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy. Place Stanilas (1750), the impressive main plaza, is named after Stanislaus 1, king of Poland, Grand Duke of Lithuania and duke of Lorraine. The plaza is lined with magnificent 18th century structures including the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). It’s a great city to walk around day or night. All this and more in a city of just 140,000.

What in the world was the Polish king doing in Nancy? He was the father-in-law of the French king Louis XV. When Stanislas was exiled from Poland, the Duchy of Lorraine was vacant due to the departure of Duke Francois, who traded this duchy for one in Tuscany, so Louis slotted in Stanislas. As his rule was nominal, he did not anger too many people. Perhaps that’s why a Polish king’s statue remains in the center of a famous and impressive square.

stan pplaza — Place Stanilas is a short walk from the city’s marina. There’s a daily light show. The king’s statute from behind.

nancy gate at dusk — One of Nancy’s medieval gates in the old town

Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation et Saint-Sigisbert, was built in the 17th and 18th centuries in the Baroque style popularized by the Roman Catholic Church. King Sigebert III of Austrasia is buried here. After he was declared a saint the cathedral became a pilgrimage destination. Austrasia was the northeastern kingdom of the Frankish empire during the Early Middle Ages.

Nancy is a bit hilly so we took the bus to the l’Musee Ecole de Nancy (the Museum of the School of Nancy). It’s in a plushly furnished mansion, the former home of Eugène Corbin, a major patron of the Art Nouveau movement here. The movement started in 1894 and formally organized in 1904, started by the furniture designer Louis Majorelle, whose nearby mansion is in the style, along with glass artist Jacques Grüber, the glass and furniture designer Émile Gallé, and the Daum glass company, still in business.

nancy corbin — Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy poster

Art Nouveau started in a number of locations in Europe at the same time, with the first buildings appearing in Brussels. It derives its inspiration from nature, thus the many floral representations. The term applies not only to architecture but to painting, decorative work such as furniture, and glass. These artistic endeavors had never coordinated before, one of the unique characteristics of the movement. Painting was not a major part of the local effort. For painting see my post on Mucha. He was famous for his renditions of Sarah Bernhardt.

After you are done loving the architecture, public spaces and art in its various forms, it’s time to enjoy the cuisine. Desserts and sweets are a big deal and what’s unique to Nancy. Aside from the myriad typical French bakery knock your socks off goodies there are macaroons, Nancy Beramots, a hard candy, Saint Epvre cake, made of two round almond meringues filled with a vanilla cream blended with crushed nougatine. Then there’s Duchesses de Lorraine sweets, a gingerbread cake, Stanislas Rum Baba, Liverdun Madeleines, a cookie, and Lorraine Chardons ( thistles), chocolates filled with eau de vie. For entrees (French for ‘first course’) and main courses Nancy has the general Alsace-Lorraine offerings, including the inimitable and forever popular Quiche Loraine and variations. But walk around the streets and you will see plenty of pizza/Italian restaurants and kebab places. And the burger is hugely popular. I never saw a burger on our first visit back in the 1990’s. The American import can set you back $20 for a full meal, or $8 at a kabob place. We spent $40 for two with beer and fries at a roadside stand. The French burgers are piled high and beautifully presented.

There is regional wine production, mostly white and on the sweet side. Gewurztraminer and Riesling are signature regional grapes. There is cremant production, Crémant d’Alsace. A cremant is a bubbly wine made the same way as in the champagne region.

St Nicolas celebrations are a big deal here. In December he visits schools giving every child sweets and lollies. They often take a class photo with him, often featured in the local newspapers. There’s a big St Nic’s parade during the holiday period.

Nancy fete — Costumes in a St Nic Parade

Our neighbor during our 4 day stay was a guy named Bryan. He’s from New Zealand but worked in the UK and then France for many years as a 747 pilot. He is 85 years old and handles his 20+ meter barge single handed. He was granted permanent residence a year ago but needed help for some official documentation at city hall. We waited over the weekend for the Monday appointment to translate for him. He was allowed an extension of residency. Several years ago they had refused to grant this to him. A reporter took on the story, which made quite the splash. Then the mayor stepped in, granting his request. Now he is looking to sell the barge. It is too much for him to handle and maintain.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/195152940@N05/53968031939/in/dateposted-public/

Barge at Port de Plaisance in Nancy

Strasbourg and its magnificent cathedral

25/08/202421/08/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Cross the bridge over the Rhine to find yourself in Germany. It takes just a few minutes. From 1870-1918 this would not involve a change of country, as it was then under German control. We crossed the bridge only because it symbolizes the open border between France and Germany. So often at war since Germany became a nation, these countries crossed the bridge from war and destruction to friendship and federation. Liiberte Egalite Fraternite crossed the border too, as Germany adopted western liberal values. It could have been the other way round, had the politics of racial hatred won the day.

While ‘Strasbourg’ comes from German, referring to the junction of rivers here, it was the Gauls who founded the city, calling it Argentorate, In 1986 the city celebrated the 2000th birthday of its Gaulic origin. Strasbourg became part of France under Louis XIV in 1681, reminding that France as we know it came together over many centuries, by war and marriage. It was one of the important centers of the Protestant Reformation – John Calvin was born here. The German resident Gutenburg invented the printing press. Strasbourg is one of the four European Union capitols along with Luxembourg, Brussels and Frankfurt, along with housing many non-European international organizations. The Rhine port is the second largest in France. All this and more in a city of just 350,000.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, the famous World Heritage site, is a big part of the “and more.” It is striking in good measure because it is made from sandstone, standing tall and tan in the sun. The tallest medieval structure of any type. It took centuries to complete. Construction began in 1019, accounting for its Romanesque elements, extending until 1439, accounting for the High Gothic, of which it is the finest example. Underneath is the church dating from the mid 6th century.

France_Strasbourg-Cathedral-exterior-vertical

Portail_Saint-Laurent_(47272312671) — Saint Laurence door

When you are done at the Cathedral you can continue the gawk with walks around the old town. The half timber structures, also referred to as Tudor architecture (but perhaps only in the UK) date from the 14th and 15th centuries. Their charm along the canals is greatly amplified.

The regional cuisine features two well known and widely loved offerings. Tarte Flambe- ‘Flammekueche’ in German- is a unleavened crust topped with thinly sliced onions, lardon (finely chopped bacon), creme fraiche and emmenthal.

Choucroute Garnie is lots of pork in various forms over sauerkraut cooked with white wine and whole black peppercorns, served with mustard. Enjoy a beer or white wine with it. The dish definitely comes from the German influence!

Baeckeoffe is a slow-cooked casserole with meat, potatoes, onions and carrots. Lamb, pork, and beef is flavored with marjoram, thyme, and juniper berries.

Coq au Riesling is a classic French dish. You braise the chicken in a Reisling, produced in the region. The sauce is accompanied by vegetables usually carrots, onions, and mushrooms. It is sometimes served with spätzle, a pasta made here and in Germany all over.

And last but not least, the mighty Bretzel, known in English as the mere ‘pretzel.’ Big ones like in the old days.

Actually there’s a bunch more to the Alsatian cuisine, both savory and sweet.

Martyr_de_Saint-Laurent_Cathédrale_Notre-Dame_de_Strasbourg_juin_2020 — Martyr of Saint Lawrence

20240811_133414 — Scenes from the old town

Strasbourg has excellent public transport. We moored just past the marina along the wall. It wasn’t pretty but it was just a short walk to the tram (and a grocery store). In 10 minutes or so we were in the center. This being August, we weren’t alone in the touristed areas but the trams weren’t crowded at all. Getting into the Cathedral was the only difficulty, with long waits in the hot sun.

Fresh Baked Pretzels for Sale — The mighty Bretzel!

In the Grand Est with the Headless Monk

17/09/202412/08/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

We’ve been strolling along the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, connecting the Marne river to the Rhine. We switched to the Moselle for a glorious couple of dozen kilometers then back to the Canal.

We are in an area generally termed the ‘Grand East,’ the northeast corner of France, bordered by Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and Switzerland. Some of the region was part of Germany from 1870 – 1918, avoiding damage from the First World War.

This is as rural as France gets: fields of wheat, corn, potatoes, beets and more. Neat small villages and old houses, more Germanic and Swiss looking as we transitioned from the Lorraine into the Alsace. The traditional cuisine changes as well, adding choucroute (saurkraut with pork chops, frankfurters and even more pork) but dropping mussels. There is Munster and Chaource in the cheese department, although there is still plenty of Camembert, even our favorite brand, Rustique.

Toul was home for several days, a long stop for us, with a cathedral and an old church worth a visit. The marina is in the center of town near a supermarket and a bakery. There’s even a hard to find boat repair yard. The Moselle River is close by and that’s where we headed next.

toul cahedral joan ard — A chubby Joan d’Arc in Toul’s Cathedral

We spent a night in tiny Liverdun. There are fabulous views of the river from cliffs above.

moselle view from top — The Moselle from Liverdun

In Liverdun you find the 12th century St Peter Church ( Eglise Saint-Pierre de Liverdun). It’s been classified as a historical monument since 1924. Legend has it that St Euchaire arrived here carrying his head in his arms, having been decapitated in nearby Pompey in 362, making the journey from there by horse. I I know of three headless travelers, Euchaire joining St Denis (Paris) and St. James (Santiago de Compostela). Haven’t had such headless travelers since. They just don’t make saints like they used to.

After Liverdun we returned to the Canal, passing through two tunnels, descending 45 meters/130 feet on the Plan Inclinee, a giant tub of water that moves on tracks, eliminating the need for a half dozen locks. We had lunch at a roadside restaurant, called a Routier (meaning ‘On the Route’), independent restaurants serving truckers and others on the move. There’s a huge first course buffet, with salads, sliced meats, olives and more, then cheeses (they come at the end of the meal in France, in case you need to stuff yourself even more) and desserts. The main course is to order, with very large servings of steaks, chicken, pork, sausage and more, served with the sauces the cuisine is known for. Nothing fancy here, but healthy as well as hearty. The last Routier we went to did it differently. A large pot containing a stew was set on the table, with a bottle of everyday wine. You could order off the menu, ‘a la carte,’ as well. Our friend ordered steak au poivre. I suffered with the thumper stew.

Climbing through many locks, we entered the Vosges Mountains, with lots of great scenery. We descended the Plan Inclinee, a 45 meter drop that eliminates the need for a half dozen locks. We passed some lovely old villages but Lutzelbourg is the prettiest and most Swiss-like.

Canal Marne au Rhin near Bar le Duc — On the Canal du Marne au Rhin near Bar le Duc

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toul – gorgeous, light and airy nave

In Void-Vacon our new Dutch friend John made us mussels in a ‘sauce espagnol,’ a red sauce that has nothing to do with Spanish cuisine, but a variation of velouté except that it is made with dark stock like beef or veal, and a well-cooked roux. After dinner a biker from Romania came by looking to get his water bottle filled. He had biked all the way from Bucharest, was going to Paris to see the Olympics, then Spain for a race, then back home. No wonder he’s so skinny.

From Bucharest to Paris, Spain, Switzerland and back to Bucharest — Biker from Bucharest in Void-Vacon

Plan Inclinee France — Plan Inclinee as we descend.

nice scene — Heading into the 2.5k/1.5 mile tunnel

Even more locks, and still no bagels (continuation)

21/07/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

We continued our journey, stopping in Epernay, Tours sur Marne, Chalons-en-Champagne, then Vitry-le-Francois.

Epernay is at the heart of Champagne country, in good measure because it sits on the Marne. As we exited the Canal Lateral de la Marne we saw the muddy river flying past. Turning into it we immediately felt the strong current. We chugged the 4 kilometers to the marina to find the harbor master waiting for us at the dock to help us in. As we approached we could see why – there wasn’t much room left for the river to rise before we’d float onto the dock, meaning the fenders would easily come in above the dock so the boat itself would hit. Later that day we were told we had to leave in the morning. The regional authorities, who exercise control over the water level, were going to release more water from the reservoir.

Before the news arrived we took our guest to a Champagne house. The nearby house, Champagne de Castellane, no longer provides tours, so we found another. Last time we were here the harbor master hosted a generous Champagne happy hour, provided by Castellane. This is no longer possible as Castellane no longer provides the product free to the marina.

We departed early the next morning to beat the additional release from the reservoir. Our 7 kph speed against the current became 14 kph with it. Fortunately the comparatively small number of floating logs were swept to the outside of the curves, where the current is strongest, while we remained on the inside as much as possible. For some reason the current slowed just as we reached the lock returning us to the safe waters of the canal. Its activating mechanism is a bit down river so you have to move to it and then turn around. With the reduced current we were able to complete the maneuver.

Tours-sur-Marne came after that nail-biter on the river, offering a gorgeous setting with vineyards set behind the reflective still waters. It’s a tiny village with a single Champagne merchant. The church is from 1851. The grapes they grow were once classified as Grand Cru, the highest rating, used to set prices after a long period of price instability. The classification has long been abandoned.

The Canal Lateral de la Marne is lined with endless great scenery. Rolling hills and fields green with crops, potatoes, beets and more, as well as wheat. We grabbed a few plants from the fields, boiled them a bit and enjoyed some mighty fine greens along with the young and still white beets.

Chalons-en-Champagne is our next stop; we are no longer amidst the fields of grapes. The Cathedral of Saint Ettiene dates from the 12th century. Its origins are Romanesque, meaning thick walls and small windows, but it was rebuilt in the Gothic style with thin walls and large windows. Then they added a Baroque section in the 17th century. Its soaring ceiling and beautiful stained glass flood the huge chamber in light. Some of the stained glass was made in the 12th century, as seen in the photo below. You can’t help but feel a time travel sensation bringing you into the medieval mind where fantasy rules, fantasy’s limitless reach unrestricted by the limits of factuality, instead only by the rhetoric of theologians and the discipline imposed by the Church.

Vitrail_de_la_Rédemption_crucifixion_1155 — 12th century glass

Notre Dame en Vaux is another great old church, a UNESCO World Heritage one to boot. It was built between 1157 and 1217. It had a cloister, now a garden, faced by a small museum. There are a number of other worthwhile visits in the town of just 45,000. It is on the road to Santiago de Compostela.

notre dame vaux drawing — Drawing in Notre Dame en Vaux, Chalons sur Champagne

Vitry-le-Francois has the tiniest harbor, maybe a half dozen slots with barely room for us in the narrow canal leading to the moorings, where we had to make a difficult 90 degree turn to slide into the perpendicular slot. There is a harbor master, a woman who proved to be highly attentive. The electrical outlet with a proper modern boat type connection wasn’t working. The other outlets were house types, not used in a marine environment. I had to make an adapter from an old house plug.

Nearby is the beautiful city hall, in French called either the Maire (Mayor) or Hotel d’ Ville. It’s oversized for this tiny village.

Maire at Vitry-le-Francois — The Maire in Vitry-le-Francois

Lots of locks, but no bagels

13/07/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Leaving Reims we went back the way we came, then making a two week long circuit, tranquil except for four kilometers on the raging Marne in Epernay. The route took us to many historic and charming small towns who some 110 years ago found themselves in the midst of WWI. We visited large, well kept cemeteries filled with mostly French soldiers. Stops included the towns of small and generally charming villages: Cormicy, Bourg et Comin, Pinon, Longuiel-Annel, Compiegne, Attichy, Vic sur Aisne, Soisson, Courmelois, Epernay, Tours sur Marne, Chalons-en-Champagne, then Vitry-le-Francois.

Most of the locks on this route are controlled by the ships’ crew, using either a remote control or a twist rod that hangs over the water. Mostly we spent nights at a ‘hault nautique,” docks provided by the French waterway authority, the VNF. VNF was there quickly the time or two we needed assistance with the locks.

Many of these towns have interesting old churches. Cormicy’s is blocky, with stumpy flying buttresses. Pretty it’s not, but you can readily imagine the frightened or hopeful parishioners shivering while seated on the hard wooden benches, a seriously abused man hanging over them, as they imagined a worse fate if they did not proclaim the faith.

Bourg et Comin: the town is a short bike ride up a steep hill from the halt. There you find a very good bakery and a small grocery store. The hault nautique has water and electricity. One space at the dock was occupied by someone using this location of as a permanent mooring, not permitted by the VNF but they are lax about enforcement. This is a common problem.

At Pinon the dock was full but the Americans on a barge let us moor up while we went to the ‘gran surface’ Carrefour grocery store just a two minute walk away. Before we had even gathered our shopping bags the other barge there, a Dutch flagged commercial, headed out. We moved to the just freed space, then resumed our shopping trip after driving a stake or two into the ground, as here there are no bollards. After we left the next morning we never saw the Americans again, as they were heading north.

Compiegne has lovely Tudor houses (half-timber structures dating from the 15thc), the magnificent Joan of Arc statue facing the famous Hotel d’ Ville (City Hall). See my article at Compiegne for photos and commentary. By the bridge there is a fuel station and a boat shop well provisioned with boating items. Their mechanic helped me replace the throttle/shifting mechanism, a critical device approaching its 30th birthday.

Vic sur Aisne has a neat old castle and a hault nautique with water and electricity. The Roman road to Calais passed through here. A mile marker was found near the bridge erected by Marcus Aurelius. The first castle was built in 900. The current dates to the 17th century. It was built by Cardinal de Bernis, friend of Voltaire and Madame de Pompadour. The structure was sold as national property during the Revolution. It was rebuilt after bombing in 1918.

Soisson was founded in pre-Roman times by the Suessiones, a Gallic (aka Celtic) tribe. It assumed some importance under the Romans, then fell to Clovis I in 486 CE. After Clovis divided his kingdom among his four sons, Soisson became one of the capitals. Soisson remained important through the Merovingians, whose reign ended in 751 CE

During the Hundred Years’ War, French forces massacred English archers, while killing and raping French residents. The English retaliated by winning the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Joan of Arc liberated the town on July 23, 1429. Girl got around!

Soisson was heavily bombed in WWI. There is a memorial behind the mayor’s office.

The late 12th century cathedral is Gothic in style with some Romanesque elements. The 13th century tower duplicates that of Notre Dame in Paris.

The famous Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, once one of the most wealthy in France, was founded in the 1076 as an Augustinian monastery. The first structures were Romanesque, but were replaced by Gothic buildings in the 12th-16th centuries. Unfortunately the church was largely destroyed under Napoleon.

Its two towers are quite different. The taller is 70m/230′ in height, visible from afar. Other parts of the abbey still standing include remains of two cloisters and a 13th-century refectory. There are vestiges of structures from the middle of the 6th century.

Cathedral of Soissons — Cathedral of Soisson

Sisson abbey — Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes

To be continued

Reims, a small city with a big past

07/07/202422/06/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Reims is pronounced Rance, the ‘a’ is a sound we do not have in English but it’s similar the the ‘a’ in ‘band with a rather nasal pronunciation. The city boasts a Roman era triumphal arch, the Port of Mars, the only remaining of four. The port was once a part of a castle destroyed in 1595. It was then integrated into the city walls, the openings filled in, and not revealed until the mid 1800’s. It now stands by itself, nicely restored.

The Port of Mars is just one of many architectural and historical delights in this city. The most notable is the Cathedral. I posted a video of the superb laser light show they perform every Thursday-Saturday night. See Light show

The Cathedral is built upon the site of the 5th century church, in its turn erected on top of the Roman baths. I would not be surprised if one day we find all were built over some important structure built by the Gauls, the city’s founders. The Cathedral is the site of the coronation of many French kings, beginning with Louis the Debonnaire in 816 , presided over by Pope Stephen IV. Pope Leo met with Charlemagne here.

Aside from the Cathedral there is another church worth visiting. The Basilica of St Remi was officially opened in 1049, before the advent of Gothic architecture, thus its heavy walls and small windows. Construction continued for centuries. As a result the nave and transept are Gothic. Charlemagne’s brother and two early kings are buried here.

The city was founded by the Remi tribe, whence the city’s name. The Remi allied with the Romans during Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. After the Roman victory the Remi’s received favorable treatment. This did not keep the Vandals out. They captured the city in 406, executing the bishop. Atila the Hun sacked the city in 451. Paris is not all that far away, today less than an hour by train. A bit more success and Atila controls today’s capital.

Reims was part of England starting in 1420, following a failed seige in 1360. The English were then expelled by the French, led by a young woman called Joan d’Arc.

Germany occupied the city and made it the seat of the governor during the Franco Prussian war of 1870-71. The Germans were back in WWI. The city and its cathedral suffered significant damage during this armed conflict, eclipsed by the massive casualties reflected in field upon field of cemeteries.

The armistice ending WWII was signed in Reims. The building remains as a museum. It was closed the day we were there, unfortunately.

The area lies on the northern edge of the Champagne production zone. The grapes used are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunie and Chardonnay almost exclusively. Other regions of France and elsewhere produce this naturally carbonated beverage but the term ‘champagne’ in Europe can only be used for wine produced here. In Burgandy it is called a ‘Crémant de Bourgogne, in Alsace it is called ‘Crémant de Alsace.’ In all there are 24 sparkling wine areas in France. Spain uses the same method. Prosecco uses vat fermentation as opposed to the bottle fermentation used here. The Champagne method was developed by a monk named Dom Perignon. Old Dom still makes champagne, although these days there are machines that turn the bottles. Many Champagne houses are located here, allowing for visits to the cellars where they explain the process.

Reims is not all Champagne and great old structures. It has a lively pedestrian shopping zone with eateries up the Oise. Petite Sale is a traditional dish, lentils with salted pork, although on my wanderings I did not see it on a menu.

Chaource is from this region. It is a soft cheese. If you can get a good one it’s richly flavored and creamy. Truffles are a big deal, as is a pink biscuit. There is a regional mustard and a smoked ham as well. Boudin blanc, a white sausage, is a traditional product. Andouillettes de Troyes is made from the large intestine and stomach, onions, salt and pepper. I wish I hadn’t known.

porte-mars-reims-1024x662-4149132103 — Port of Mars

Reims_BasilicaSaint-Remi_016_8114 — Interior of St Remi, photo by Ludvig14

fountain — In the central pedestrian zone, Reims

Reims Cathedral and its Fabulous Light Show #regalia

07/07/202410/06/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Notre Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims) is an ancient church done up in High Gothic Style. From Thursday to Sunday they project a superbly produced free light show after dark. Last night it started at 2245h.

The Cathedral is the traditional location for the coronation of the French kings. In its previous incarnation as a Romanesque building it was the site of the baptism of Clovis I in the early 6th century. Construction of the current church began in the 13th century after the destruction by fire of the previous structure. It features flying buttresses like the ones at Notre Dame in Paris, allowing for a well light interior. It is owned by the government of France, which pays for its care. The Roman Catholic Church is allowed use.

After the severe bombing damage of WWI, when it was used as a hospital, the building was restored, with three windows by the Russian born Chagal. The Rockefeller Foundation donated to the project. In the 1990’s they found the 5th century baptistry along with parts of the original church, itself built upon the site of the baths.

In 816 Louis the Pious was crowned by Pope Stephen IV. From Henry I in 1027 most French kings were crowned here. It was held by the English but returned to the French by none other than the 20 year old Joan of Arc in 1429.

Reams have been written about Reims (actually pronounced something like ‘Rance,’ no ‘M.”) There’s a PhD thesis around every corner. Just looking at its main facade is more than an eyeful, even though the main entrance is currently covered. There are more statues than I can count without a large photo print.

Garybob says check it out! Get there from Paris on the TGV. It does not take long.

Stepping our way through the Canal des Ardennes

07/07/202404/06/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

There was no rain.

Thus began our early morning journey through the 26 step locks of the Canal des Ardennes. We are extra thankful. Since there are many low bridges we must lower our rain hood. We could have been steering in the rain for the next seven or so hours. Instead we enjoyed more sunshine than we have seen we started this year’s boat travels.

la chesne viking — We started from La Chesne. Great steak au poivre across the street at the Odyssey (French, not Greek).

The locks are remote controlled. We only had to wait for help at one lock that would not open. A VNF employee was there within minutes. Another lock closed and emptied while we waited, then filled and let us in. Otherwise the system worked well.

The locks were not turbulent. We are descending. When you are ascending you are much more likely to experience turbulence.

We made the journey in just five hours, instead of the typical seven hours. Stopping at Attigny, we spoke to the Danish couple also moored there. The day before it took them 9 hours, having lots of problems with the locks. At one point they had to wait an hour for assistance. We saw VNF employees everywhere. Many were mowing or doing other maintenance chores near the locks or along the way, or driving back and forth along the canal. We lucked out.

step lock fills Stern waiting — In one of the locks

cows on the hill — Rolling hills and lots of cattle and farmed land

After the last lock on the Canal you enter the River Aisne after passing through a lock, then into its canal. As you approach Attigny things get rather narrow.

things get narrow — Squeezing through narrow portions of the Aisne Canal

Finding our Meuse

07/07/202402/06/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Winding our way down the Sambre from Manage to the river Meuse at Namur, we turned into the current of the swollen waterway. For the next 143 kilometers we would be pushing against the run off from the extraordinary rainfall in the northeast parts of France and the southeast parts of Belgium. We skipped by both Namur and Dinant, having been there previously, but also so we could more quickly arrive at the Canal des Ardennes in France. Once there we’d be out of the current. It’s 46 kilometers to the French border, then 97 kilometers in France. We must traverse some 40 locks, each of which takes at least 20 minutes.

Rain followed us much of the way. Combined with the strong, sometimes intimidating current, it created a darkened mood over the journey. When the rain lifted and the current fell off or disappeared when we were in the short canals after locks, the mood turned around, even if briefly. Getting to the Ardennes promised a more pleasant experience.

20240527_131003 — The Meuse cuts a path through a hilly region

After a grinding week we entered the Canal des Ardennes. We were greeted by a friendly woman at the fuel dock. We topped up our fuel and water tanks, then docked in front of the lock per her instructions as it is a no mooring zone. Then we went straight for the one bar in this tiny collection of businesses, houses, rent boats and private small craft. A few people live on their boat, in addition to perhaps a few dozen residents. Bigger towns lie ahead, through dozens of locks, including 21 locks in the space of just seven kilometers as we climb the hills.

20240527_131832 — Mansions along the way

20240531_133018 — Approaching the first lock

So Inclined- Belgium’s lift technology

07/07/202427/05/2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

From Tournai we made our way easterly, stopping for the night on a dock equipped for large barges just outside Ascenseur 4 – on the old Canal du Centre. There are four elevator locks on the old canal, replaced by the new canal and the Strepy-Thieu lock that bypasses the four locks, raising boats 73 meters/240 feet straight up in a single motion. This saves hours compared to the four old elevators.

Nearby our mooring there’s a store called Bella Sicilia. No choice, we just had to go there, even with rain threatening. The recommended route took us through a closed-off underpass along a muddy unused dirt road for a few hundred meters. Then it was a wooded country lane into town.

When we arrived there was a sign saying Bella Sicilia was permanently closed. Disappointed and about to leave, we saw that behind us stood Bella Sicilia reborn, open and doing business in a much bigger space. Inside it’s an instant journey to Palermo. Almost everything is Italian branded. There’s a huge deli counter, five employees serving the locals. You can choose among a huge variety of stuffed breads, and several arancini, the rice balls that are THE street food of Palermo. All this and more in a tiny country town in a very small country far from Italy.

I learned that almost all the employees speak Italian. I spoke with a woman who wanted to know where we were from and the like.

After two daysat the dock by the elevator lock we went to the Strépy-Thieu Boat Life. We were about to rise 73 meters straight up.

thieu lock in distance — The lift’s tower rises in the mist

Four hours later at the Viesville lock the lock keeper said it was closed for a week due to objects that had damaged the mechanism. Fortunately our batteries were full and there was plenty of water in the tank. We sailed back two hours to Menage, a tiny village with a brand new barge dock, directly across from Le Nautic Lodge, a restaurant we enjoyed several years back.

Manage has grocery stores, bars and bakeries, as well as a train station. The train to Brussels takes just a bit over an hour with one change. We visited the Victor Horta Museum, a house designed and lived in by the architect Victor Horta (1861-1949), before taking a self-guided walking tour to see a half dozen turn of the century Art Nouveau houses, some designed by him.

After four days near Manage we again sailed away from our destination for about two hours to the WSV (abbreviation for a marina owned and run by members) at Ittre. We’d been there before and found the location to be pleasant even if barely adequate for a boat of our size. The people were very friendly and helpful on our last visit. Getting to town to make purchases requires ascending a long and very steep hill. A member drove us there to get a few things that time.

On the way to Ittre we passed through the Plan Incliné de Ronquières, the Inclined Plane, a lock that moves boats from one level to the next in a large basin that is moved along rails.

Plan Inclinee in Belgium — Plan Incliné de Ronquières

cheeese bella sicilia — Cheeses at Bella Sicilia

One of the first two arancini we tried. I biked back for 2 more.

thieu lock tower — After entering the lock the gate drops down, then the tub rises

Manage — One of the planks at the Nautic Lodge.

ittre club — Some of the friendly members in the club house

After sidling up to the visitors dock we helped a couple dock their boat. In turn they bought us a beer. There’s Chouffe on tap, one of Belgium’s best that is available nation-wide, exported as well. We spent the next few hours talking. Our story is unusual in many respects, being Americans deep in the Belgium countryside on our own boat after starting far away in Haarlem. In boat terms that is a good distance. Many boaters are confined to local travel due to time and budget constraints so are interested to learn more.

Afterwards we saw an email from Wallonie notifications. The blocked lock had been cleared. Tomorrow we have several hours to go before we get back on course, including another trip through the Plan Inclinee and several locks with 7 meter drops.

Our friendly neighbors for the night left at 9:30 the next morning. When we arrived at the lock at 11:30, they were still waiting. The backlog of commercial vessels was just clearing.