Pisa: more than just a tower

In the center of town we found the city’s main plaza, a large one flanked by majestic Medici era architecture. But the city goes back much further, to the Etruscans circa 800 BCE. Excavations in the 1980’s and 90’s proved its Etruscan origins, around the 5th century BCE. The city is close to the coast and was once a maritime power. It is split by the Arno River, which nearly topped it’s tall banks here and in Firenze (Florence) just a few weeks ago from the mountain rains to the east. The historical center would have been disastrously flooded.

Pisa was at its height from the 11th century until the 17th as one of the major maritime republics of Italy. The city’s port still provides significant employment as does tourism and the major universities and schools. The University of Pisa dates to the 12th century. The Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa (high school teacher training), founded by Napoleon in 1810, is in the main plaza.

At night the old town streets are abuzz. It seems like most of the city’s 35,000 students are talking at the same time, clustered around bars drinking beer, wine and Aperol. It’s late March so the weather is more encouraging, with temps in the 10-20c (50-68f). The churches are still quite cold and damp.

pisa street life at night
The lively night life in il Borgo, the historical center of Pisa

It appears that Pisans seem to have a distinct preference for spaghetti, as opposed to say linguine or orecchiette in Puglia, as each of the restaurants we visited served only spaghetti (aside from lasagna) with the sauces on offer. I found a rice pie in one of the bakeries. I was hoping to try “cecina,” a flatbread made with garbanzo bean flour.

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Statue to Cosomo Medici

The statue to Cosomo Medici was commissioned by Grand Duke Ferdinando I in 1596. Pietro Francavilla sculpted the piece in the elegant Late Mannerist style. The building behind is the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa, with only 600 students enrolled. It’s primary purpose is the training of high school teachers. The decor is painted onto what I believe is concrete or something similar.

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Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina. The wall on the left is the river’s retaining wall.

Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina is a lovely and small Gothic church on the southern bank of the Arno. The Gualandi family built it in the 1200s, naming it Santa Maria di Pontenovo. It was moved to its current location to better protect it from flood waters. “Della Spina” refers to a thorn from the crown of thorns, no longer in the church. It is in the Chiesa di Santa Chiara on Via Roma. Pontenuovo collapsed in the 15th c, never rebuilt. It was closed when we were there. Too bad. There is a famous Gothic sculpture Madonna of the Rose by the Pisano brothers.


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2 thoughts on “Pisa: more than just a tower”

  1. Gary, We were in Jerusalem 30 years ago and toured a Jewish museum where, for the first time in my life, i saw CE “Common Era” and BCE “Before Common Era”. It was their effort to ENTIRELY eradicate the crucial part Christ played in the development of our fabulous Christian civilization by eliminating AD and BC, with the stroke of a pen. They don’t believe in Christ as Messiah. They think he was just a “prophet.”
    There is nothing “common” about the time Christ spent on earth. It’s an abject insult to diminish Christ in those terms.
    As a Irish Catholic, whether you are still practicing or not, please don’t fall victim to their conspiracy and become an accomplice to their subversive efforts to spread this blatant falsehood and wipe Christ out of history. We can’t afford to loose His influence on humanity. It’s the only thing that keep people SANE!

    Reply
    • Hello, nice to hear from you. I would say that most of my Christian friends do not see Jesus as being thin skinned and vindictive, and take their cue from that. Seems to me you fear that Christianity is fading (is it?) and thus hold onto the symbols of its dominance. It’s like getting upset if a male walks into a church with a hat on. You’d think the sky was falling. Stay well. gary

      Reply

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