Blog 2024

Update November 11-15, 2024

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Friends report the presence of many volunteers in their communities, including some from Madrid and Barcelona. There are many heartwarming stories of efforts to provide on site assistance, food, clothing, shelters for pets and pet food.

Oscar Puente, head of Transportation, says that lines C1 and C2 of “Cercanías” (regional trains) will be reopened before Christmas, perhaps C5 and C6 as well. Line C3,the one going south, suffered the most damage. A reopening date has not been estimated. He went on to say that the main highways should be more fully operational in the near future. Secondary and smaller roads are going to take months. On the A7 they are building a bypass for military and emergency access. The A3 to the south was closed due to a collapsed bridge, but they are paving an alternative route. The 330 should be open by now. Source La Sexta

Mazon, the President of the Generalitat (Valencia province) apologized for the much delayed warning. Some 130,000 showed up at the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) in downtown Valencia to protest. There was another protest at the Borja Palace.

On November 11, 2024, La Dirección General de Tráfico says there were more than 22 kilometers backed up. Various important roads in the effected areas are still closed to traffic: the A-7 between Quart de Poblet and Torrent, the CV-33 in Torrent, the CV-36 from Picanya to the A-7, the CV-50 in Chiva. There are 31 smaller routes that are not usable at all.

We took the bus to El Perelló, .located on the beach to the south. Just outside Valencia city we drove past huge numbers of damaged vehicles. We saw no damage to property the entire distance to El Perelló other than the expansion of the lake, called the Albufera. Some farmland is underwater on the east and northern sides. The beaches are littered with reeds. These no doubt came from the Albufera and were washed out to sea before being carried back in. We saw about a half dozen Guardia Civil on horseback looking for bodies. Access to the beach is blocked north of the Estany de la Plana in El Perelló.

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Debris washed up in El Perelló.

Reports from a friend in Catarroja: One of the first things they did was to clean out the storm sewers, removing mud and debris. Heavy rains this week would have resulted in additional flooding.

The bus information screen informed us that fishing in the Albufera has been suspended until conditions return to normal. The Rambla del Poyo that funneled the flood waters empties into the Albufera, causing the conditions leading to the prohibition. Emergency workers have been combing the reeds looking for bodies carried by the Rambla del Poyo.

The screen provided recommendations to volunteers working in effected areas. Equipment: mask, gloves, rubber boots, long sleeves and trousers (no shorts), head and eye cover. They are telling people not to eat or drink while in those zones, and to not put mobile phones next to your face and ears until you have sanitized all surfaces. Where there is no running water people can not use toilets so may be forced to go outdoors. Sewer lines may be broken, spilling sewage. There may be toxic materials in the mud and standing water.

See Las Provincias for photos of clean up efforts.

November 9th, the recovery continues

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The death total has reached 212. Five children are confirmed dead in the flood. Two are missing per the latest reports. Policía Nacional y la Guardia Civil have 28 cases of missing persons as of November 12, down from 50 the day before.

No victims were found in the parking lot at the MN4 mall in Alfafar.

Debris and vehicle removal continues but there are mountains to move. The first step is to clear a path for pedestrians and vehicles by piling everything on one side, opening one lane.

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Calle Calvario, Torrent
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Volunteers by the thousands showing up. This is in Catarroja. Photo by Aubrey Lay.
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Day care center in Picanya.

Maribel Alblat, the mayor of Paiporta, probably the most seriously effected community, called the “delegada del Gobierno” Pilar Bernabé García, charged with central government activities in the province, at 7 pm on the day of the flood. “People are dying,” she said. It took an hour before the massive alert was issued. That meant that thousands more were in their vehicles when the flood waters hit.

The Spanish Meteorological Agency (AEMET) had issued orange alerts the day before the floods for heavy rain. The president of Valencia province Carlos Arturo Mazon has been heavily criticized for the lack of timely response. The Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez has also been criticized although it appears that the primary initial response must lie with local officials versus those in Madrid.

Mazon, the Partido Popular leader (conservative), voted against a recent proposal to introduce measures that would prevent the risk of floods along the Mediterranean coast. (Alex Dunham and Conor Faulkner – alex.dunham@thelocal.com, 5 Nov, 2024 CET. Updated: Tue 5 Nov 2024 14:30 CE).

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Rambla del Poyo in Picanya. You can see the supports for the pedestrian bridge (in yellow)
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Volunteer clean up in Picanya

Many people use bottled gas in their homes. Some have to wait in lines for hours for replacement bottles. Water and electricity has returned to at least parts of Catarroja according to a friend of mine with family in the area.

A Spanish Navy vessel landed Monday bringing 104 marines to assist in recovery efforts. There are over 5,000 soldiers already in the area. The ship brought trucks loaded with food, water, support materials, and two SH-60F helicopters. Daily World

Schools in about half of the effected areas are set to reopen on Monday, November 11.

The Ford factory is resuming daytime operations. Further opening will depend on the transport situation. Roads to the effected areas and beyond has been heavily effected, especially during rush hour. The closure of the Metro has forced more people into cars and buses. From Torrent to Valencia took 15 minutes by metro now takes 3+ hours by road. https://www.lasprovincias.es/valencia/incomunicacion-torrent-tardar-minutos-llegar-valencia-metro-20241108142255-nt.html

Various fund raising efforts are underway. Last night we attended the tour of the Antiguo Almacen de Dientes. There were more than 50 people in attendance and many more who bought tickets but did not attend.

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Source of the above information is the online version of Las Provincias unless otherwise indicated.

Update on the flood disaster, morning November 7, 2024

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Some 1 million were effected by flood waters in 78 municipalities.

Donations to the Spanish Red Cross can be made here Cruzroja.

Spanish television station reporting – Headline reads, “There is still a lot to do.” No kidding.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Io7jgf82fX8 This video is about Picanya, on the Rambla del Poyo. The first speaker indicates the height of the waters where he is standing. The bridge there is destroyed and he says the next five bridges are as well, but there is one remaining so people can cross the Rambla. The second speaker points to his house. The water having reached a height of 5 meters he was forced into the top floor.

Las Provincias (Valencia based newspaper) reports an urgent need to drain standing water. Cleaning of ground floors and basements have resulted in vast quantities of dirty water creating an unbearable stench (“hedor”). They need every truck in Spain capable of carrying off this water. Some houses were condemned due to structural weakness. Inside buildings there is still much to be discarded but nowhere left to put it given the mountains of debris already there.

Those effected by the floods have two months to request financial assistance. This includes farmers. There are more than 54,000 hectares effected. The main way to request assistance is via the internet. However many do not have the capacity for one reason or the other, and lack the digital certificate needed, so the provincial government (Generalitat) plans to open local facilities, itself a significant challenge under the circumstances.

The two pedestrian walkways and the railway bridge in Paiporta are unusable. The other three infrastructures that crossed the Poyo suffered no structural damage and are operational, per the Levante. Levante also reports that there are still 93 people missing. Levante November 7

Debris and cars, and perhaps cadavers still, effected The Albufera, a fishing and agricultural area south of the city of Valencia. Fishing has been suspended pending further evaluation. Rice, artichokes, oranges and more are cultivated in the area. The Rambla del Poya that carried the devastating flood waters empties into the brackish lake at the heart of the area.

Developments in the last few hours, November 5, 2024

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Some statistics: 44000+ vehicles, 21,400+ houses and 2200+ commercial properties destroyed. Endless quantities of perishable goods have been ruined: 800,000 kilos in 32 locations, mostly fresh meat and fish shops as well as restaurants. Authorities have removed almost 3000 farm animal cadavers. Family Cash y MasyMas supermarket chains are donating food, hygiene and cleaning products. Amazon has an aid center at calle Luis García-Berlanga Martí 25 in Valencia for the distribution of food and other primary necessities. Of some 92 schools in the effected zones, 24 can re-open.

The Spanish government has announced direct aid of between 5,000 and 150,000 euros for self-employed workers and businesses, and 75% of guaranteed salary. Pensioners get an immediate 15% increase. Between 20,000 and 60,000 for house repair, 10,3000 for furnishing and appliances, up to 37,000 for residences for the elderly, and 72,000 if incapacitated.

The Metrobus authority (it manages the metro system) has created bus service to replace some of the metro lines. Regular metro service remains suspended. Here is the link https://www.lasprovincias.es/comunitat/lineas-metrobus-metro-recorridos-horarios-20241105111209-nt.html

Some 600 building inspectors are now in effected areas to check structures for safety.

The provincial government plans a to create a website to help local governments coordinate with volunteers . Interviews with volunteers suggests that more rather than fewer are needed for the countless smaller scale activities. The transportation department recommends avoiding the V-30. There are huge traffic jams on the AP-7. The beach areas in Pinedo, Arbre de Gos, El Saler, Garrofera, Devesa y Perellonet are closed for cleanup. They are using dogs to find cadavers in these areas.

People with missing relatives are asked to provide DNA samples to aid with identification. The central government intends to ask for aid from the European Solidarity Fund. Various EU countries have offered assistance, however none of the offers have yet to be accepted. The Spanish government is paying for all the costs the municipalities incur in dealing with the floods. A set of measures will be announced.

Donation fraud has raised its ugly head. Authorities advise checking the organization out before donating, For now I am recommending only World Central Kitchen. https://wck.org/

Source: primarily Las Provincias https://www.lasprovincias.es/

Brief update

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Some miscellaneous updates: The Metro in Valencia is not running. It will be opening line by line in the coming days. The regional trains running north are in service, but not to the south, which is where the flooding occurred. There are efforts underway to take care of cats and dogs. Pet stores are collecting donations. Some 15000 military personnel are in or on the way to effected areas. I can not tell how much heavy equipment has arrived and been put to work, though I saw a long line of farm tractors going into one of the towns . The king, prime minister and president of Valencia Comunitat (the provincial government) were pelted with mud in Paiporta yesterday. Trash service in Valencia is back on so that means they can get to the landfills and recycling centers, other than the organic waste. That container is still full.

Picnaya is divided by the Rambla del Poyo. Four of the five bridges are gone, the one remaining carries vehicles. The town of Torrent, next to Picanya, is nearly impossible to get to because of road damage and blockages. It is the second largest town in the province of Valencia.

World Central Kitchen was serving hot meals in Paiporta yesterday. The founder is a famous Spanish chef. I have donated along with a number of friends. It is a reliable charity. Please consider donating World Central Kitchen

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Trucks and cars were thrown around like corks
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Car and debris everywhere
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Flooding happened on streets with parked cars and traffic
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After the center street has been cleared
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Farm tractors showing up to go to work
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This shows where the Rambla del Poyo is. You can see a number of the effected communities along that gully.

At a large shopping center called Bonaire there is a 1700 car underground parking lot. It filled with water. There was much fear that many victims died in their cars. They have been pumping it out for days and finally they can get in. There are no victims, fortunately.

Elsewhere one man spent 11 hours in a tree before he was rescued. Another was taken in by a truck driver. They waited it out in the cab. One woman left work as usual at 5pm. Before long she was caught between two branches of the flood. She took a video, sent it to her brother, who told her to get out of the car or she would die. She exited the car and was underwater immediately. “”But at that moment, one of those white canisters that are in the countryside hit me in the belly, pushing me to the surface and crashing me into an orange tree. With my right foot, I leaned a little on the nozzle of the canister and gained enough momentum to stay afloat.” (Las Provincias https://www.lasprovincias.es/comunitat/pase-horas-arbol-jose-manuel-socorrio-20241105003020-nt.html )

There are many heart warming reports of rescues, in some cases by people risking their lives to help others. Sonia, Carmen, Eva, Pepa y Fran were rescued. They were in the water when a man came swimming to tell them to follow him to where they could join others in a building. The window was illuminated still and they followed him there.

There was heavy flooding in Barcelona yesterday from the same type of meteorological system, called DANA in Spanish, that caused the devastation in Valencia province on September 29. Roads and airport closed.

Flooding in Barcelona on November 4, video in English

The devastating flood in Valencia province, Spain

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On October 29, 2024, Paiporta and Picanya, both in the province of Valencia and on the south edge of the city of Valencia, and 13 other communities on the west and south side of Valencia were heavily damaged by a raging flood causing over 200 deaths and counting. Bodies are still being pulled from the wreckage. This came about as a result of 19″ inches of rain in the hills to the north and west of the city of Valencia, which itself got little rain in addition to a fair amount of wind. This deluge is the equivalent of a year’s worth of rain in a few hours.

This type of storm is called a DANA, Depresión Aislada en Niveles Altos, a High Altitude Isolated Depression The jet stream drops further south than normal, bringing cold air that then collided with the warm moist air over the Med. Once this mass of very moist air hit the hills the temperature dropped. The result was some 19″ of rain that was funneled into a large gully called the Rambla del Poyo, which is normally dry. It is not deep and wide enough for this much water all at once. A raging wall of water overflowed the banks.

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Wreckage like this can be found in the effected villages.

This disaster one is worse than that of 1957, when 100 died when the central part of the city was flooded by the Turia River. They are still rescuing people trapped in buildings. They found one person alive in their car after three days. Most houses do not have running water nor electricity, while some still have mobile phone service so we are hearing from them. Volunteers and government workers are bringing water, food and supplies. Over 10,000 volunteers were organized and bussed in today, November 2nd.

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A residence for seniors/disabled inundated
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One tornado touched town
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Provincial authorities are coming under some fire for failing to warn people in time. Alerts were sent out via mobile, but people in the effected villages are saying either that they never received one or that it came within minutes of when the flood waters slammed into their houses and cars. I received a warning at 9:30 pm long after the disaster occurred. If you were not following the news you would have had no idea there was a problem.

There were thousands on the roads and highways when the flood waters prevented further progress. Some of them died, most of them have lost their vehicles to the damages inflicted by water, mud and collisions with other vehicles, houses, trees and the like.

Stay tuned for updates.

Moros and Cristianos on Valencia Day (video)

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Upon our return to Valencia we were greeted with this parade. It is Valencia Day here, and for the people here any excuse for a party or parade will do. The costumes are fantastic and if there is one thing Valencia is not lacking it’s musicians. Each group of Moros/Cristianos has its own band, and they are sizable too. Check it out!

Silently passing in the blackness

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Germany was not yet a nation in 1870 when war broke out between France and the North German Federation. It resulted in the loss of Alsace and Lorraine. The French built the Canal de l’Est afterwards to replace the transport it had lost. The canal begins just a short distance from Nancy. In 2003 the northern and southern branches were officially renamed Canal de la Meuse and Canal des Vosges. We spent the last days of this season on the Canal de la Meuse.

“I reviewed every whodunit I have ever watched, every story of psychotic serial killers.”

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Night sets into the blackness

As you round the corner to enter the Canal de la Meuse there is a small town called Richardménil. We pulled into Its a lovely mooring. There are picnic tables and electricity. The narrowing Moselle runs alongside the canal. There is no bike path on this side of the canal so we were alone, aside from the nearby house hidden by the trees, with a large German Shepherd who greeted some of the occasional passers by heading for the footbridge leading to the paved path on the opposite side. Only one other boat came by while we were here and for the following four days.

The adjacent small town is up a steep hill. I biked there to get a baguette- a ‘tradition’ actually. This is a baguette made as they were made before modern methods turned the baguette into a less desirable product so I always ask for a ‘tradition.’

With very warm temperatures on the way we headed up the canal, climbing towards the source of the Moselle. This means we are entering emptied locks. These locks in particular are very difficult to use. The bollards are three meters or so above our heads. There are no holds for the bow other than the activating mechanism’s flimsy pipes, whereas in many locks there are holds built into the walls. To secure the stern I had to climb on the roof, using the hook to place the line over the bollard. We held on tight as the water gushed in turbulently. You rise quickly, hoping not to lose control.

We spent the next three days in the shade as temperatures climbed to 32c/90f outside the little town of Bayon. We grilled on our tiny charcoal barby and prepped some surfaces for later painting. People biked along the narrow, paved bike path, the small bridge crossing the lock just a few meters away. Up the road is a a roadside burger stand. We stopped there one day as the chef was just arriving. The friendly owner gave us a menu, and invited us back. We returned the next day. The burgers are good but not great despite the 5 stars awarded on Google maps, while costing us $40 for two with fries and a bottle of beer. This isn’t exactly cheap. A hundred meters closer to the canal a fete was forming. On Saturday night there was live music, a typical over the hill rock band, referring to their age. They weren’t half bad, especially considering how deep in the countryside we are.

A few people came walking alone late at night, well after midnight, wearing a headlamp, the light on their forehead bobbing in the pitch black mist. As they passed in silence with just a small door separating us, I reviewed the whodunits I have watched, stories of psychotic serial killers. But these were just people walking in the dark.

Joe Goldberg
Penn Bagdley as the charming, loving, affirming yet psychopathic murderer Joe Goldberg in ‘You.”

The heat wave passed after several days. The important town of Epinal lay some thirty locks ahead. The French water authorities had issued a notice stating that the canal south of Epinal was closed effective several days previously. We called the harbor in Epinal to see if it was closed, which they answered in the affirmative. We could have stopped short of Epinal and taken the bus into town. Since we would then have to turn around to got to our winter harbor, repeating the same 30 locks, we decided to forgo the journey. We headed back north for the winter, ending our boating season by gathering with some of the friendly and interesting people we’d met along the way. This year it’s Australians , with one Brit couple, one Belgium and one French.

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Harbor at dusk. The cold weather cometh.

Down with Nancy (the city, not the person)

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After another beautiful cruise through the gorgeous Vosges Mountains (see The Grand Est), this time with friends, we came back to Nancy, one of France’s delightful cities and the capital of the Lorraine. Nancy (Gallic Nanciaco, possibly from a Gaulish personal name) has a wonderful pedestrian old town center stuffed with restored half timber buildings. The city’s a center point of Art Nouveau, magnificently displayed in the Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy. Place Stanilas (1750), the impressive main plaza, is named after Stanislaus 1, king of Poland, Grand Duke of Lithuania and duke of Lorraine. The plaza is lined with magnificent 18th century structures including the Hotel de Ville (City Hall). It’s a great city to walk around day or night. All this and more in a city of just 140,000.

What in the world was the Polish king doing in Nancy? He was the father-in-law of the French king Louis XV. When Stanislas was exiled from Poland, the Duchy of Lorraine was vacant due to the departure of Duke Francois, who traded this duchy for one in Tuscany, so Louis slotted in Stanislas. As his rule was nominal, he did not anger too many people. Perhaps that’s why a Polish king’s statue remains in the center of a famous and impressive square.

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Place Stanilas is a short walk from the city’s marina. There’s a daily light show. The king’s statute from behind.
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One of Nancy’s medieval gates in the old town

Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation et Saint-Sigisbert, was built in the 17th and 18th centuries in the Baroque style popularized by the Roman Catholic Church. King Sigebert III of Austrasia is buried here. After he was declared a saint the cathedral became a pilgrimage destination. Austrasia was the northeastern kingdom of the Frankish empire during the Early Middle Ages.

Nancy is a bit hilly so we took the bus to the l’Musee Ecole de Nancy (the Museum of the School of Nancy). It’s in a plushly furnished mansion, the former home of Eugène Corbin, a major patron of the Art Nouveau movement here. The movement started in 1894 and formally organized in 1904, started by the furniture designer Louis Majorelle, whose nearby mansion is in the style, along with glass artist Jacques Grüber, the glass and furniture designer Émile Gallé, and the Daum glass company, still in business.

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Musee de l’Ecole de Nancy poster

Art Nouveau started in a number of locations in Europe at the same time, with the first buildings appearing in Brussels. It derives its inspiration from nature, thus the many floral representations. The term applies not only to architecture but to painting, decorative work such as furniture, and glass. These artistic endeavors had never coordinated before, one of the unique characteristics of the movement. Painting was not a major part of the local effort. For painting see my post on Mucha. He was famous for his renditions of Sarah Bernhardt.

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ecole nancy st glass

After you are done loving the architecture, public spaces and art in its various forms, it’s time to enjoy the cuisine. Desserts and sweets are a big deal and what’s unique to Nancy. Aside from the myriad typical French bakery knock your socks off goodies there are macaroons, Nancy Beramots, a hard candy, Saint Epvre cake, made of two round almond meringues filled with a vanilla cream blended with crushed nougatine. Then there’s Duchesses de Lorraine sweets, a gingerbread cake, Stanislas Rum Baba, Liverdun Madeleines, a cookie, and Lorraine Chardons ( thistles), chocolates filled with eau de vie. For entrees (French for ‘first course’) and main courses Nancy has the general Alsace-Lorraine offerings, including the inimitable and forever popular Quiche Loraine and variations. But walk around the streets and you will see plenty of pizza/Italian restaurants and kebab places. And the burger is hugely popular. I never saw a burger on our first visit back in the 1990’s. The American import can set you back $20 for a full meal, or $8 at a kabob place. We spent $40 for two with beer and fries at a roadside stand. The French burgers are piled high and beautifully presented.

There is regional wine production, mostly white and on the sweet side. Gewurztraminer and Riesling are signature regional grapes. There is cremant production, Crémant d’Alsace. A cremant is a bubbly wine made the same way as in the champagne region.

St Nicolas celebrations are a big deal here. In December he visits schools giving every child sweets and lollies. They often take a class photo with him, often featured in the local newspapers. There’s a big St Nic’s parade during the holiday period.

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Costumes in a St Nic Parade

Our neighbor during our 4 day stay was a guy named Bryan. He’s from New Zealand but worked in the UK and then France for many years as a 747 pilot. He is 85 years old and handles his 20+ meter barge single handed. He was granted permanent residence a year ago but needed help for some official documentation at city hall. We waited over the weekend for the Monday appointment to translate for him. He was allowed an extension of residency. Several years ago they had refused to grant this to him. A reporter took on the story, which made quite the splash. Then the mayor stepped in, granting his request. Now he is looking to sell the barge. It is too much for him to handle and maintain.

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Barge at Port de Plaisance in Nancy

Strasbourg and its magnificent cathedral

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Cross the bridge over the Rhine to find yourself in Germany. It takes just a few minutes. From 1870-1918 this would not involve a change of country, as it was then under German control. We crossed the bridge only because it symbolizes the open border between France and Germany. So often at war since Germany became a nation, these countries crossed the bridge from war and destruction to friendship and federation. Liiberte Egalite Fraternite crossed the border too, as Germany adopted western liberal values. It could have been the other way round, had the politics of racial hatred won the day.

While ‘Strasbourg’ comes from German, referring to the junction of rivers here, it was the Gauls who founded the city, calling it Argentorate, In 1986 the city celebrated the 2000th birthday of its Gaulic origin. Strasbourg became part of France under Louis XIV in 1681, reminding that France as we know it came together over many centuries, by war and marriage. It was one of the important centers of the Protestant Reformation – John Calvin was born here. The German resident Gutenburg invented the printing press. Strasbourg is one of the four European Union capitols along with Luxembourg, Brussels and Frankfurt, along with housing many non-European international organizations. The Rhine port is the second largest in France. All this and more in a city of just 350,000.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, the famous World Heritage site, is a big part of the “and more.” It is striking in good measure because it is made from sandstone, standing tall and tan in the sun. The tallest medieval structure of any type. It took centuries to complete. Construction began in 1019, accounting for its Romanesque elements, extending until 1439, accounting for the High Gothic, of which it is the finest example. Underneath is the church dating from the mid 6th century.

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Saint Laurence door

When you are done at the Cathedral you can continue the gawk with walks around the old town. The half timber structures, also referred to as Tudor architecture (but perhaps only in the UK) date from the 14th and 15th centuries. Their charm along the canals is greatly amplified.

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A biggy in Alscace -Tarte Flambe- Flamenkeuken in German.

The regional cuisine features two well known and widely loved offerings. Tarte Flambe- ‘Flammekueche’ in German- is a unleavened crust topped with thinly sliced onions, lardon (finely chopped bacon), creme fraiche and emmenthal.

Choucroute Garnie is lots of pork in various forms over sauerkraut cooked with white wine and whole black peppercorns, served with mustard. Enjoy a beer or white wine with it. The dish definitely comes from the German influence!

Baeckeoffe is a slow-cooked casserole with meat, potatoes, onions and carrots. Lamb, pork, and beef is flavored with marjoram, thyme, and juniper berries.

Coq au Riesling is a classic French dish. You braise the chicken in a Reisling, produced in the region. The sauce is accompanied by vegetables usually carrots, onions, and mushrooms. It is sometimes served with spätzle, a pasta made here and in Germany all over.

And last but not least, the mighty Bretzel, known in English as the mere ‘pretzel.’ Big ones like in the old days.

Actually there’s a bunch more to the Alsatian cuisine, both savory and sweet.

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Martyr of Saint Lawrence
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View from one side
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Scenes from the old town
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Another biggy-Choucroute

Strasbourg has excellent public transport. We moored just past the marina along the wall. It wasn’t pretty but it was just a short walk to the tram (and a grocery store). In 10 minutes or so we were in the center. This being August, we weren’t alone in the touristed areas but the trams weren’t crowded at all. Getting into the Cathedral was the only difficulty, with long waits in the hot sun.

Fresh Baked Pretzels for Sale
The mighty Bretzel!
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