Author: Gary Kirkpatrick

  • An Edgy Zone

    July 31, 2014

    We walked around near where we’ll be staying starting in September.  It ain’t beautiful, at least where we were, and I was a bit disappointed, but saved by the charm of our youngish hosts and later by the street life in the up and coming area.

    Back in the 90’s, according to the restaurateur we’d meet later in the evening, he could not even come to the neighborhood.  Now subway line C has emerged from two thousand years of antiquities right smack in the middle.  First a poor artist or two moved in, then a few more, then young professionals, and pretty soon the area dominated by street dealing and prostitution finds itself with trendy but sill comparatively inexpensive bars and restaurants.

    The house itself was designed by the couple.  She’s an architect.  It was a shop which they divided in two; their friends live next door and smiled as they walked by.  On the ground floor there’s a living room.  There’s large table at the sliding door (designated art studio), which is next to the single door entry.  There’s a full bath and a decent sized bedroom currently occupied by the 5 year old.  A steep but short staircase takes you up a level literally, but figuratively up several.

    Here’s a gorgeous kitchen which flows to the dining table and then onto the large, room-for-a-pony outdoor terrace.  It flows seamlessly onto the neighbor’s.  The master bedroom is there with another nicely tiled full bath.

    I think this will be a fun place to live while our landlords are in NYC.  He’s an economist doing some work at Columbia University.  Very down to earth with excellent English- hers is more hesitant I think- he was more than willing to talk to me about the economy, the loss of jobs to third world countries and the like, while Peg went to get her computer so we could complete the email fund transfer.

    They told us where to find some good places for dinner, and we went looking, and came upon a Japanese restaurant.  This should have been a clue as to what we were about to encounter, as the Italians were not receptive to foreign cuisines last we heard.  An employee or one of the owners arrived on his scooter-  there are at least two per capita here  and ushered us in, whereupon we were given a complimentary glass of wine, a seat in the garden, and a recitation of what’s happening in the zone, which probably has a name, but I do not know what it is yet.  Stay tuned.

    He sent us to several restaurants after warning us to stay on the main drag and shortly we were in a trendy pedestrian area lined with restaurants, bars, all of which offer outdoor seating.  Not a tourist in sight- the friendly restaurateur had inquired how in the world we found ourselves here, in fact.  He is Italian- very-, by the way, and you cook your dinner at your table with the built in wood burning cook top.  And not a sushi in sight, he proudly added.

    Not only we were the only tourists, there was a dearth of the conventionally dressed and those of our age in general.  The upwardly mobile, I suppose is how you’d class them.  Young people with education, and a bit of an edge.  The ones with less money sat in doorways drinking whatever they brought with them, the others frolicked more comfortably.

     

     

  • From Rome, With Love

    It was an early morning dash to the airport and then some tense minutes while I tried to find Peggy at the airport.  But smooth flying and a view of il Coloseo as we came in.  There’s a bus from Ciampino to Termini train station that’s quite easy, then an expensive cab ride to our hotel,; it happened to be near the house we are renting for the next several months.  It was lunchtime.

    Our clerk sent us to a restaurant which was diretto, diretto down the street.  Not.  But some locals helped us find what we were looking for and we settled on a very local – there are no tourists in this section- and very good restaurant.  We ordered a pasta dish which we shared, and a mixed deep fried mixed plate with zucchini including the flower, stuffed olives, a rice ball and a few other goodies.  We got a very good local 1/2 bottle of red for 5 euros.  It took forever but it was good.

    After a bit of a rest we met our future landlords-  we start in early September.  They have a house they renovated, their friends having bought and done the other half of an old shop.  The lady of the house is an architect.  She did a fine design it seemed to us.  I’ll describe the place soon but there’s a huge outdoor terrace.  They dine there 8 months of the year.

    More soon.

     

     

  • Water color painting of the Church at Auber-sur-Oise (updated)

    July 26, 2014

    Last Tuesday a friend and I went to Auvers-sur-Oise, not to far from Paris.  It is here that Vincent Van Gogh lived his last months.  He died from a gunshot wound, either from his own hand, as we have long thought, but perhaps one of the local teens who’d been harassing him for his odd appearance.

    Gogh did a painting of this church,  now a famous piece.   Here is my rendition in memory of this man who contributed so much to art and who received so little in return.  I’d done a pen and ink/water color one a few years ago from a different angle and in preparation I did a sketch beforehand, both below.  I needed to be more or less ready to paint when I get there as I doubt I can sit long enough to start from scratch.   My butt just about died that day sitting on the ground perched against a tree doing the pen and ink. The angle he did it from is the one I sketched a few days before we went. There is nothing to lean against from his angle so my friend  brought chairs. And a bottle of Absinthe.

     

     

    Church at Avers sur Oise: Ode to Vincent

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Church at Avers sur Oise - sketch

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Parisienne (water color)

    My contribution to the exhibit at the Hotel d’ Ville’s exhibit in Paris, this one in water color, and sans any protest.

     

     

    parisianer water color small

  • My contribution to the exhibit at the Hotel d’ Ville’s exhibit in Paris

    My contribution to the exhibit at the Hotel d’ Ville’s exhibit in Paris, an delightful exhibit about which I posted last week. It is a protest against the astronomical prices in the restaurants. Try $6-7 for coffee, $15 for a hot dog. it’s become impossible for the average worker to afford to take the family out even once in a while unless they have a employer provided ‘ticket reataurant.’ 

    Croak is a play on words- croque monsieur is a famous sandwich. If I can find someone to translate this for me I might do it up, just a 10 minute sketch now but I think it is kind of fun.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Videoslideshow- Chobe River and Park, Botswana, Our Safari

    This is a slide show from our safari in Chobe National Park, Botswana, not far from Livingstone, Zambia.  Half of the time is on the river and the rest on land.  Some close ups of quite a few critters.    .

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z85NCjOCA4U&list=UUl7YKIwsWVvA_jQrQVcxYRg

  • Tanzania to Solwezi, Zambia- a slideshow set to Zambian music

    These are photos from the moment we landed in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, across 1500 km of Tanzania to Solwezi, Zambia, where we met up with Travis, who is serving as a Peace Corps Volunteer in a small village not far from Solwezi.  Coming up,  our days in his village.

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKXpMILbwFU&list=UUl7YKIwsWVvA_jQrQVcxYRg

  • Some watercolors from Zambia

    Here are some of the drawings I have done here in Tanzania and Zambia.  We started in Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania.

    Tazara Train
    Tazara Train (from the journal I kept)

     

    The countryside in Tanzania:

    Huts in Tanzania (from the journal I kept)
    Huts in Tanzania (from the journal I kept)

     

    The plains of Tanzania  (from the journal I kept)
    The plains of Tanzania 
    (from the journal I kept)  Sold

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Update from Lusaka

    June 14th

    Hello from Lusaka, the capitol of Zambia. 3 fantastic days in our nephew’s village (he is in Peace Corps), what lovely people and what a totally fabulous welcome we received! Rustic conditions, to put it mildly, even the bus rides were arduous and there was a 1 1/2 hour walk in the dark but under a full moon to end the 12 hour day. More to come when I have time on the net.

    If you have a Facebook account you can read my hand written journals with illustrations.  I have not uploaded to google+ yet.  I can not post them here without more work than I can probably manage to do right now.