Trier: Capital of the Franks

The oldest city in Germany, Trier was created by the Romans in the late 1st century BC, calling it Agusta Treverorum, the city of Augustus among the Celtic Belgian group the Treveri. It was the capital of the Gauls (Celts), serving much of the Roman Empire and becoming one of the emperors’ residence. The Franks conquered Trier in 496 CE. There were witch trials between 1581 and 1593 – nearly 400 women were murdered. During WWII the city served as the staging area for British troops captured at Dunkirk.

It has one mighty big Roman gate, Porta Negra, circa 300 CE, built when it was one of four capitals of the Roman Empire in the late third century. You stand there looking at it wondering why it is so dirty. It’s not. The blackened stone is in its natural state. Adjacent is a confusing city museum which totally lacks narrative, just a bunch of objects on display.

Here there are also the 4th-century Roman baths, the amphitheater from c. 100 C.E., and the cavernous basilica. The basilica is now a Protestant church. It has the throne room of the emperors.

There’s an intricately designed set of churches whose spires stand above where Constantine built four. One is the Cathedral, the oldest church in Germany. Basically Romanesque, it dates from the early 4th century. It was rebuilt in about 550, and enlarged in the 11th – 13th centuries. It stands next to another spire-laden house of worship.

The Roman monuments, the Cathedral, and the Church of Our Lady were designated a World Heritage site in 1986.

When it comes to street food, the local favorite is Weck, Worscht un Woi. This features a soft bread roll (Weck), savory sausage (Worscht), and a glass of local wine (Woi). Can’t get more German than that, can you? Likewise with the local artisan breads made from rye and whole wheat. Trierer Schwarzbrot is a dark rye bread ,dense and slightly tangy. We’ve tried a cream topped strawberry tarts (and there are other fruit toppings). Out of this world!

There’s a huge white wine production in the region,ranging from dry to very sweet. The main grape is Riesling. There is also including some bubbly, called Sekt. Sommeliers and other experts praise the better Rieslings for their complexity, expressiveness and how well they age. Pinot Noir and other varieties are on the upswing. That view runs counter to those of many.

Germany is a beer culture. On our last trip here I was quite disappointed. The long slow pours resulting in a head you could sit on are a thing of the past. I remember watching a woman pouring a glass for me. It must have taken ten minutes to get it just so. I do not see that any more. Not that there aren’t any good beers left. More of this anon.