Cross the bridge over the Rhine to find yourself in Germany. It takes just a few minutes. From 1870-1918 this would not involve a change of country, as it was then under German control. We crossed the bridge only because it symbolizes the open border between France and Germany. So often at war since Germany became a nation, these countries crossed the bridge from war and destruction to friendship and federation. Liiberte Egalite Fraternite crossed the border too, as Germany adopted western liberal values. It could have been the other way round, had the politics of racial hatred won the day.
While ‘Strasbourg’ comes from German, referring to the junction of rivers here, it was the Gauls who founded the city, calling it Argentorate, In 1986 the city celebrated the 2000th birthday of its Gaulic origin. Strasbourg became part of France under Louis XIV in 1681, reminding that France as we know it came together over many centuries, by war and marriage. It was one of the important centers of the Protestant Reformation – John Calvin was born here. The German resident Gutenburg invented the printing press. Strasbourg is one of the four European Union capitols along with Luxembourg, Brussels and Frankfurt, along with housing many non-European international organizations. The Rhine port is the second largest in France. All this and more in a city of just 350,000.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg, the famous World Heritage site, is a big part of the “and more.” It is striking in good measure because it is made from sandstone, standing tall and tan in the sun. The tallest medieval structure of any type. It took centuries to complete. Construction began in 1019, accounting for its Romanesque elements, extending until 1439, accounting for the High Gothic, of which it is the finest example. Underneath is the church dating from the mid 6th century.
When you are done at the Cathedral you can continue the gawk with walks around the old town. The half timber structures, also referred to as Tudor architecture (but perhaps only in the UK) date from the 14th and 15th centuries. Their charm along the canals is greatly amplified.
The regional cuisine features two well known and widely loved offerings. Tarte Flambe- ‘Flammekueche’ in German- is a unleavened crust topped with thinly sliced onions, lardon (finely chopped bacon), creme fraiche and emmenthal.
Choucroute Garnie is lots of pork in various forms over sauerkraut cooked with white wine and whole black peppercorns, served with mustard. Enjoy a beer or white wine with it. The dish definitely comes from the German influence!
Baeckeoffe is a slow-cooked casserole with meat, potatoes, onions and carrots. Lamb, pork, and beef is flavored with marjoram, thyme, and juniper berries.
Coq au Riesling is a classic French dish. You braise the chicken in a Reisling, produced in the region. The sauce is accompanied by vegetables usually carrots, onions, and mushrooms. It is sometimes served with spätzle, a pasta made here and in Germany all over.
And last but not least, the mighty Bretzel, known in English as the mere ‘pretzel.’ Big ones like in the old days.
Actually there’s a bunch more to the Alsatian cuisine, both savory and sweet.
Strasbourg has excellent public transport. We moored just past the marina along the wall. It wasn’t pretty but it was just a short walk to the tram (and a grocery store). In 10 minutes or so we were in the center. This being August, we weren’t alone in the touristed areas but the trams weren’t crowded at all. Getting into the Cathedral was the only difficulty, with long waits in the hot sun.
