Gary J. Kirkpatrick

Category: Sicily 2019

  • The Norman Palace, Palermo

    Palazzo de Normanni, the Norman Palace, is one of several Arab-Norman buildings in Palermo.  It was the seat of the Norman kings, whose reign started in 1072, just 6 years after conquering England, ending in 1139.  The Palace began as an Arab structure in the 10th century.  Vaults from that period remain visible.  The Punic (Carthaginian) ruins are in the lowest part.  The Palace was built between two rivers and was moated. 

    The Capella Palatina is the best example of the Arab-Norman-Byzantine style.  The mosaics are superb, the wood roof excellently painted, the marble work expertly crafted.  Sala Normana is not altered from its original state, but much of the rest has been modified. 

     

    Courtyard
    Loggia
    chapel
    chapel
    Palazzo dei Normanni

     

    The Sicilian Parliament, the oldest legislative body in the world, meets in the Palace.  It’s first meeting was in 1097.  These two mono chromatic pieces adorn the meeting room.

     

    Hercules – one of many wall paintings featuring the legend
    Muscular putti in chiaroscuro

  • Mercato Ballarò

    April 5, 2018

     

    Walked through the huge Mercato Ballarò market today.  Vendors loudly barking (abbanniate) their wares.  Scooters inch through the crowds viewing the colorful booths, cars struggle through intersections, almost nudging the pedestrian traffic.  A few restaurants pass out fliers but we had great street food, lunch for 2 for 6 euros, eggplant pasta with a tomato ricotta sauce and an arancini (rice ball).  A woman next to us ordered a panelle on bread –  they really do eat those here.  Panelle is made of ceci (garbanzo) flour.  Sounds Arabic in origin-  falafel for example is made from the same flour.

     

    This oldest Palermo market goes from Piazza Casa Professa to near Corso Tukory.  They sell much of the local fruit production- oranges (ugly but tasty), artichokes, rapini and more.   It looks like a mass of crowded stalls and with the road invaded by wooden boxes that contain the goods that are constantly shouted, abandoned, chanted to advertise the good quality and good price of the products.  There is some meat but much seafood. 

     

    A fun place to visit, a great place to shop! 

    Mercato ballarò
    Mercato ballarò
    Mercato ballarò
    Peg buys sausage
    IMG_20190404_131132
    melanzane pasta

     

     

    There is much confusion about a vegetable called rapini, brocoli rab, and brocoletti.  Brocoletti was developed in Japan as a combination of kale and brocoli.  It is officially called brocolini.  Rapini aka brocoli rab has buds that resemble brocoli.  Compared to brocoletti the buds are small and the stalks much more slender.  Rapini is what they sell in southern Italy.  Taste wise they seem very close to me, and I will take either one!  Mixed with sausage, garlic and olive all it is a great contorno!  We bought some and cooked it up!

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapini

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rapini

  • Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas

    Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas has examples of Punic (Carthaginian), ancient Greek, as well as a rare Phoenician sarcophagus.  It contains some of the fine work from the Greek temples of Selinunte, built by the Elymians.  

     

    Yes, those are turtles!

    Phoenician sarcophagus circa 1500 BCE,, cover only is original.  Female figure

     

    Gold tiara

     

    Frieze from Selinunte

     

    Artist rendition of a Selinunte temple

     

    Ariel view of Selinute

     

  • The Greek Temples of Selinunte

    March 31, 2019

     

    On the coast just 20km from my ancestral town of Partanna and 50km from the port of  Marsala you find the archaeological area called Selinunte.  http://selinunte.gov.it/ It dates from 450 BCE.  It has some of the finest Greek ruins anywhere. 

     

    Temple E
    Temple F, sitting right on the coast

     

     

    Selinunte was a moderately-sized town, surprising given the scale of construction they undertook.  The Greeks founded it in the seventh century BCE,  locating it on the coast.  In 409 BCE Carthaginians sacked Selinunte, then earthquakes in the middle ages damaged or toppled the remaining structures.  English archaeologists began excavations in the late 1800’s.  Excavation continues.  Sculpture panels from a temple frieze are in the archaeological museum in Palermo.

     

    Temple E as it likely was. Much of the building had no roof, an interior temple housed the worshiped gods
    The angora, market area
    Temple d

     

     

    Plan of Selinunte

     

    There is an excellent museum which contains well translated exhibits as well as various remnants including a pediment atop tall columns.  Upon this structure they project a slide show.  It is superbly done and the highlight of our visit.  We videoed part of the show.  The handheld camera  can not duplicate the experience for you but at least gives you some idea of what it’s like.

     

     

    [embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q57WGNYAg8M[/embedyt]

     

    There is an extensive wiki on the town https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selinunte

     

    If you want to thoroughly explore the site you need 3-4 hours if you walk.  There is a motorized vehicle if you prefer, with a taped tour.