Holiday Foods of Rome, and ditching Panettones

Christmas eve dinner here in Rome: I prepared a multiple course meal. Well it was mostly me, as the spousal unit managed to sneak in some very non-Italian smoked herring and salmon. You can get both of these in the stores here these days, but that is no excuse, IMHO.

In Italy the meal is divided into courses: antipasto (before the pasta), Primo piato (first plate, meaning pasta) and Secondo, meaning seafood and meats, Contorni (vegetables) and the Dolci (desserts) and then at the end an espresso (and NOT a cappuccino, let alone one WITH the meal). For primo I made stuffed mushrooms and ricotta fritters (both family recipes), smoked salmon with grilled veg as well as polpette marino (disliked by all but one), these last two begrudgingly admitted to this course in order to humor the unit, and artichokes.

Primos: I made pasta with meatballs and gnochhi in a pistachio pesto sauce. Spaghetti and meatballs served together is an Italian-American thing, as “polpetti” is a meat item and therefore comes as a secondo. This was another compromise, in an effort to serve at least something that the younger non-Italians with us would identify as Italian and in which they might find comfort. “Enough with the surprises, already!” they seemed to be saying, though maybe I was jumping the gun, as to my great delight these are not picky eaters.

Shrimp grilled in butter and lots of garlic, and steamed mussels came next. By this time everyone was full so there were left over shrimp and mussels, and we never even got to the contorni, the vegetable side dish, in one restaurant laughingly translated as “contours.” I’d made cicoria sauteed with garlic, olives and olive oil. We skipped to the dolci, Panettone as well as Vin Santo. Vin Santo, a sweet wine, is a Rome tradition. You dip the crunchy Tozzeti alle Mandorle and chomp away. Tozzeti are called ‘biscotti’ in the US, but ‘biscotti’ is simply the Italian word for ‘biscuit’ or, better yet, ‘cookie.’ There are numerous variations of tozzeti as well as biscotti in general, but mostly just one in the US if you can find them there at all.

White and red wine accompanied the meal. The white in this photo is from the nearby Colli Albani. It is not good enough for a special meal so we opened a better one. The one in the photo and its variations are popular in Rome, sold in bottles or delivered by truck and then pumped via hose into the basement casks of the “enotecas” (wine shops). The shops in turn deliver via spigot to customers who bring their own bottles. They charge about $2.50 a liter. It is often served as the ‘vino della casa’ at restaurants for 6-10 euros a liter (a bottle is .75 liters)

Christmas Day: Lunch with friends, people we have known since our sojourn of 1999-2000. There was prosciutto crudo and Russian salad for antipasto. Prosciutto is the Italian word for ham. It can either be cotto (cooked, that is, regular ham) or crudo, literally ‘raw,’ but actually it is salt cured for long term conservation without refrigeration. In the US people think that ‘prosciutto’ just refers to the crudo version. Russian salad, just their family tradition and not at all common, is diced potatoes, carrots, peas, and hard boiled eggs. The eggs in this case were, thankfully, sliced and laid on top, as I dislike them. A lasagna and then an Italian version of meatloaf came next. It was a fine meal, with long periods of conversation beforehand and between each course as well.

A few days later we went to another friend’s house for coffee. She served up some really good and not too sweet cookies she made using family recipes, as well as turron, marzipan and the ubiquitous panettone. I’d brought a panettone with me, as we had too many even after taking one to the Christmas eve dinner. I was hoping to get rid of it. We’d already had one and ‘basta!’ one was enough. I thought I was out of luck but then our friend announced she would like to take us to see her daughter. I was hoping for another opportunity. Nope. She had the rest of the panettone in tow. Mine remained hidden in my backpack.

Everyone seems to try to pan off their panettones here. I am sure that when we lived here in December of 1999 we brought panettones to friends’ houses that were the very ones they brought to ours.

Some other tidbits about eating in Italy

Bread is a big deal in Italy. You can get it in grocery stores and panificio, a bread shop. Pastries are sold in a pasticceria. Bread and pastries are not normally sold in the same shop. Whether you get bread in a grocery store (supermercato) or a panificio, you chose the bread you want from the clerk, who weighs it and applies a price sticker to the bag.

You will need a good bread knife as few places have a slicer and the breads have mighty fine crusty crusts. In addition these breads are not made with chemicals so they dry out and harden quickly, so it is best not to slice them in advance, although these days you can freeze them and they will be just fine for weeks.

Want some pizza on the run? Get slices at any of the many small shops. You order by size, they weigh and heat it up for you- they seem to love to weigh food here. You can also get veggies in some places. A tavola calda (“hot table”) has pizza (by the weight of course!) and much more, such as roasted chicken, porchetta (pork stuffed with garlic and herbs) and contorni (also by the weight). Beer, wine and soft drinks are served from a refrigerated case (not weighed, thanks goodness). These places have plenty of seating, unlike most by the slice places, and are much less expensive than a restaurant. You order at the counter and pay then and there.