Metz, France: a site for soar eyes

Metz sits at the confluence of the Moselle and Seille rivers. The Cathedral’s height and extensive stained glass dwarf the slack jawed visitor. The town boasts cream colored stone architecture from the Middle Ages. Part of Germany from 1870 to the end of WWI I, it sits near the border of Germany and Luxembourg.

Metz has a rich 3,000-year history, starting with a Celtic oppidum, an iron age fortified town. During the Roman period it had a population of 40,000. It was the Merovingian capital of Austrasia (the northeastern Frankish kingdom), from the 6th to the 8th century. The Carolingian dynasty started by Charles Mantel (Charlemagne was his grandson) began here. It was a republic from the 12th to the 13th century.

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne (Stephen) is a superb example of High Gothic architecture. The nave is 41 meters in height. It has more stained glass than any other building in the world, with works by Gothic and Renaissance glass masters as well as Jacques Villon’s cubism and several by Chagall. It sits where there there has been a church since the 6th century.

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Chagall’s stained glass
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Metz center

We visited the Museum of La Cour d’Or, Metz, the city history museum. You descend several flights to the Roman cistern, discovered when construction began on the current building. There is an unusual and extensive collection of Celtic Roman era sarcophagi and gravestones. The artwork is crude compared to most Roman era carving. There is also a rare and large collection of painted wooden ceilings.

port allemands metz
Port Allemands, Metz watercolor 21 x 30cm/11.7 x 8.3″
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Roman era cistern at the Museum of La Cour d’Or, Metz
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Among the collection of painted wood ceilings in the museum

This is a fun city to walk around. The stone construction glows in the sun. There are lots of people about but you don’t feel crowded. There are many side streets and alleys if you get tired of all the upscale shopping on the main street. Plenty of places to stop for refreshment. Quiche Loraine is a big deal. No reason why you couldn’t pair it with one of the many Moselle white wines.

The main grapes are Auxerrois, Müller-Thurgau, Pinot grigio. They also grow Müller-Thurgau, Pinot blanc, Riesling, Gamay and Gewürztraminer. You might also try the rosés, made from Pinot noir and Gamay. See the tourist bureau site for more information https://www.tourisme-metz.com/en/discover-metz-metropole/gastronomy-and-mirabelle-plums

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