Krakow: the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque

Wawel Cathedral

Krakow is replete with finely preserved notable architecture.  The Rynek Glowny (Main Square) is in the center of the old town (Stare Miasto).  Sukiennice (The Cloth Hall, 1400) is a fine example of the Renaissance.  The Cloth Hall was a center for the export of salt (there is a huge salt mine nearby), textiles and lead and the import of spices, silk, leather and wax.  The Rynek Glowey is normally full of visitors, horse drawn carriages, and outdoor seating at the many restaurants.  

 
Cloth Hall in the main square
Cloth Hall in the Rynek Glowny

A short distance away is St Mary’s Basilica is late Gothic church with two unmatched spires at 80 m (260′).  One was originally a city watch tower.   The Basilica’s foundations date to the early 13th century.  The church has a famous wooden altar piece by Veit Stross (Wit Stwosz).  Every hour a trumpet plays from taller tower, the former watch tower.  It commemorates the 13th c. trumpeter shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city.  The noon hejnał is broadcast Polish national Radio 1 Station.

St Mary's Basilica
St Mary’s Basilica

The Royal Cathedral is another Gothic structure dating from 1100.  Pope John Paul II gave his first performance as a priest here in 1946.

Wawel Cathedral
Wawel Cathedral

 

The Church of St. Adalbert, which is one of the few remaining examples of the Polish Romanesque style in Krakow, and the oldest Christian chapel in the city to boot.

Church of St. Adalbert
Church of St. Adalbert

The pointed arches show the Gothic character of the Collegium Maius

Collegium Maius
Collegium Maius

The Barbican is a fortifcation once connected to the city walls just behind it. 

Barbakan
Barbakan

 

The Church of St Peter and Paul is Baroque in style. 

Church of St Peter and Paul
Church of St Peter and Paul

Polish cuisine

Polish food has long since been a part of American cuisine, even if a small part.  Who has not had kielbasa sausage or dill pickles.   Polish cuisine is a calorie and fat rich cuisine, heavy on pork, chicken and beef to a lesser extent.  Cabbage is a major item —  there were three types of cabbage served with the huge platter we shared on our first night.  They use a lot of cream and eggs, as well as grains. Bigos is a hearty stew made of finely chopped meats sauerkraut and cabbage.  Pirogi are a major feature, stuffed noodles or rolled pancakes–  I had one stuffed with cheese and spinach.  You can get a variety of pretzel (but soft) in food carts and bakeries everywhere.    Sour dough breads are common, including its use in soups.  In the main square there are booths.  At one we tried a grilled smoke cheese with cherry jam.  It was excellent!

 

Breads and meats in the main square

A small place open just for lunch is called Lunch-  that’s right, Lunch.  We noticed that locals were piling in so figured it was probably both good and a good value, and it was indeed.  This meal plus a beer and coke was just $15.00, and either would have been enough for two people.  The pirogi had a potato pancake on top and another on the bottom.

goulash with potato pancakes
Cheese and spinach pirogi, pancake style

Goulash was borrowed from the Hungarians, becoming an integral part of the cuisine.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have my doubts about spinach as a traditional ingredient.

I’ll have more to add as we go.  

Krakow: city of architecture and culture

Krakow sits on the banks of the Vistula.  Settlement dates from the 7th century, finding Wawel hill a defensible position. and has long been a major center of Polish culture and economy.  It was a member of the Hanseatic league despite not being coastal and thus had its own fleet during that period (circa 1000-1500).   It was the capitol of Poland from 1038-1569, when Wawel Castle 

Wawel Castle
Wawel Castle

castle burned, after which the capital was moved to Warsaw.  It was capitol again during the Nazi era.  In 1978, Karol Wojtyła became Pope John Paul II, the first non-Italian in 455 years.  Auschwitz is close by, and Schindler had his factory here, which is now a museum.   Its current population is 760,000, with a total regional population of 8 million.  On our first day it seemed like a few million children were taking a field drip to the city, long lines of them being moved about by teachers trying to show them the town.  

Wawel Castle at night

https://garyjkirkpatrick.com/krakow/Wawel Castle at nightKrakow means “town of Krakus,”  a legendary ruler of the country.  The area’s first named inhabitants, the Vistulian tribe (700 CE), gave the river its name.  However, there is evidence of habitation dating well before, to 50,000 years.  Wawel Castle, now a fine arts museum, was built  circa 1350 and much renovated in the 16th century, when King Sigusmund brought in Italian architects, German decorators as well as local craftsmen.  

In 1364 Casimir III founded the University of Krakow, the second oldest in central Europe after Charles University in Prague.  By the 15th century the city had entered its golden age, whence the examples of Polish Renaissance architecture.  The architecture includes fine examples of Gothic, Renaissance and the Baroque.

Wawel Cathedral
Wawel Cathedral
St Mary CathedraL, Krakow
St Mary Cathedral, Krakow

  

Loving Vincent – Pictures of his life

Van Gogh As Young Man, pencil

“Loving Vincent” is a flick about Vincent Van Gogh made entirely of paintings done in his thick paint, swirly, expressive style.  There are 65,000 paintings in all, each done on glass plates.  The plates were first placed before the filmed of the costumed cast members, reducing drawing time dramatically, and making it possible to make this movie with just 125 and not, say, the 10,000 artists it would have taken to cover an area the size of London or Manhattan if each plate were laid out in the original size.  All this adds up to an unusual experience and a total immersion in the visual world of the artist.  But there’s more.

The film could have suffered significantly from the flaw that plagues musicals, whose stories often serve as an excuse for the next number.  Loving Vincent’s story line, however, is not so thin.  Its basis is writing that challenges the initial contention that Van Gogh committed suicide. 

The movie opens with the postman possessing a returned letter addressed to Vincent’s brother Theo.  He recruits his son Armand to hand deliver the letter.  Armand soon finds that Theo is dead, so he looks for an alternative.  The film is a series of interviews of the people who knew Vincent, all portrait subjects, interviews that further what turns into an investigation of the death of the artist.  As things unfold we are provided a picture of the life of Vincent as well as his death, some interviewees corroborating the suicide theory, while others leave us doubting that verdict.

Several issues emerge that lead us to question the suicide conclusion.  Having pulled that trigger you would have left black powder marks on your clothes and hands, and the accounts show conflicts in that regard.  Also we are told of the persistent ridicule and bullying by town youths, any one of which could have had motive, perhaps even the one who later confessed to mistreating Vincent in his youth.  Then there is Vincent’s state of mind.  “Loving Vincent” is what Van Gogh wrote in each of his letters to his brother Theo, with whom he had a close relationship.  Thus Vincent was not entirely alone and unloved by family, and he was close to some of the interviewees as well.  

There are several other observations of interest.  First, Vincent wrote, “I want to touch people with my art.  I want them to say:  he feels deeply, he feels tenderly.”   Are those the sentiments of someone who would end his own life?  Perhaps but perhaps not.  Second, Vincent’s lack of commercial success could certainly contribute to his perception of self-worth.  However Monet, the most famous of painters,  had recently highly praised Vincent’s art, and Vincent sold a painting, his first.  Third there is the odd location and angle of the lethal wound.  People who attempt suicide with a gun usually go for the head not the stomach.  None of these observations are conclusive of course, but there is certainly enough to cloud the official verdict, and to give substance to what would otherwise be an art slide show with an excuse for a story.

The colored images flicker in a way that other animations I have seen do not, adding an element of visual intrigue to that surrounding conflicting images of Vincent’s life and death.  They also add an element of brain fatigue.  Fortunately the flash backs in black and white give much-needed rest for the eyes. 

This is a unique film about a unique man making unique art.  Check it out – and stay through the credits.  You’ll be treated to Lianne La Havas’s deep toned charming rendition of Starry Starry Night.  

Rotten Tomatoes reviews      Robert Kodger review  Tim Brayton review  Vanity Fair: The Van Gogh Mystery

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A friend and I went to Auvers-sur-Oise, which is not too far from Paris.  It is here that Vincent Van Gogh lived his last months.  While he lived in this town Van Gogh did a painting of the church,  now one of his more famous paintings among the 800 he squeezed into his short life.   Here is my rendition, in memory of this man who contributed so much to art and who received so little in return. 

 

Church at Avers sur Oise: Ode to Vincent, waatercolor, 11.5 x 16.5", 30 x 42 cm
Church at Avers sur Oise: Ode to Vincent, watercolor, 11.5 x 16.5″, 30 x 42 cm, $450

Church at Avers sur Oise, graphite
Church at Avers sur Oise
Church at Avers Sur Oise, water color

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first of the following drawings I did at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, which displayed a photo of a young Van Gogh.  This and other early photos are a stark contrast to the gaunt and haunted look of Vincent’s later self portraits, which are widely seen.  Here is a more rare glimpse of the man.  

Van Gogh As Young Man, pencil
Van Gogh As Young Man, pencil

 

Van Gogh As Young Man, pen and ink
Van Gogh As Young Man, pen and ink

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Portrait of Peasant, after the Van Gogh, pen and ink
Portrait of Peasant, after the Van Gogh, pen and ink

 

 

In case you need a touching moment, here’s Lianne’s rendition of Starry Starry Night.  Don Mclean gave light to this song that will live as one of the most touching eulogies of all time, whose disturbed mind gave us so much beauty, so much innovation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here we are in Vilnius

After a few days in the Latvian countryside, Kuldiga being of most interest, we hopped the bus taking us from Riga to Vilnius, the only Baltic republic we have yet to visit.  It’s a four-hour drive in the cold gray weather through flat, unremarkable countryside.  A few days later I had to make a return visit, having left my Italian passport on a pharmacist’s counter.  It was waiting for me at the Italian embassy in the heart of the old town.  It was just as uneventful.

The Baltic countries do not get much attention in US history classes but there is much of value and interest.  We’ve been to the Ducal Palace, reconstructed on site and now offering a rather detailed story of the country, much more important up to the 1800’s than it is now.  But the people here have Russia very looming on their borders, a Russia whose history of occupation dates to around 1700, with but a brief respite between the wars before the occupation resumed as the Nazis retreated.  In their world view, the history of their relationship with Russia is not a side-show, of course, nor is the past respect shown them by other European nations.  I expect to post more on this.  

The University of Vilnius is just a few minutes from our plain vanilla apartment.  I have posted some photos of the delightful, on the one hand, and strange art on the other hand, here University’s mural and fresco.

Not far from us as well is the Vytautas Kasiulis Art Museum, home of the paintings of Lithuania’s most famous painter, who came to light in Paris after escaping from his home country subsequent to the Soviet takeover.  It is art worth seeing.  His paintings are what I would term transitional, bridging the gap between the figurative and the abstract.  Over time he increasingly removes references to the substance of the image until he gets to the essence, still figurative but just a tad away from abstraction.  These photos are from the museum that bears his name, Vytautas Kasiulis

Vytautas Kasiulis, earlier piece
Vytautas Kasiulis toward abstraction 
Vytautas Kasiulis, towards abstraction

 

The old town section is, like that of Tallinn and Riga to the north, is a World Heritage site and the main attraction.  

 

I think this is called The Sisters
Vilnius architecture
Vilnius Cathedral, some of its art
Vilnius Cathedral

No visit to any of these countries would be complete without a visit to what the locals call “The Dark History,”  referring to the Nazi and Soviet occupations.  Here as in Riga you can visit the Gestapo/KGB head quarters for a look at this grim period.  It does not seem that the extent of spying on its citizens compares with what happened in East Germany, but the torture, imprisonment and deportation to the sparsely populated areas of the Soviet Union are, and they’ve well documented in the museum.  The museum visit includes the dank cellar with its torture, isolation and execution chambers.

 

Solitary confinement, barely big enough to sit in

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ll have some notes on the more cherry subject of the hope-you-like-pork cuisine – and what other observations I might have about the culture, such as the dearth of beauty parlors.  They have salons where you can get your hair combed out, though.  

 

 

Artemesia Gentileschi, one of the best painters of the 1600’s and among the world’s best

Artemesia Gentileschi, one of few women painters in the 1600’s, and among the finest of either sex.

Born in Florence in the Baroque era, Artemesia (1593 – c. 1656) was one of the finest painters of her day, and the only one of her sex to achieve recognition.  She was the first woman to become a member of the Accademia di Arte del Disegno in Florence was employed by patrons from the Papal states Italy, Naples, and England.   Her father Orazio was also very well known and respected as a painter, sharing his knowledge with her  from an early age, yet for years they were estranged until possibly near the very end of his life when they worked together in London for the royal family. 

Her most famous painting is Judith Slaying Holofernes, a bloody affair that demonstrates her powerful use of light and shadow allo Caravaggio.  She made use of her own image in this and many of other paintings.

Judith Slaying Holofernes
Susanna and the Elders (1610). She was 17

Her success was threatened in the earlier years by the crime to which she was subject, and the subsequent trial.  In 1611 at age 18 she was raped by Agostino Tassi, a painter Orazio hired to tutor her.   At that time if you were raped and the rapist promised to marry you, rape was acceptable provided the promise was kept.  She continued having sex with Tassi but he reneged on the marriage commitment – her continued relations with him was not considered exculpatory of his behavior.  At the time he was still married and having a sexual relation with his sister in law as well.  Part of the trial ordeal was a required gynecological exam.  In addition all witnesses had to undergo torture.  Their testimony would be deemed credible if they did not change their story.  The prosecution was carried out not by her but her father as women did not have standing in these matters.  Tassi was found guilty and sentenced to five years or banishment from Rome.  He chose the former.

 

 

My Ode to Artesimia, acrylics on acrylic paper, 21 x 29.7 cm, 8.3 x 1
St Cecilia Playing a Lute

She handles light beautifully, her underlying drawings are magnificent.  

Lucretia

She married a Florentine artist recommended to her by a friend, to which her father grudgingly assented, as was required if she were to marry anyone.  Pierantonio Stiattessi was also a painter but not of her stature.  He helped her get commissions, fathered their daughter Prudentia but later became a burden.  They spent most of her married years apart despite a very good beginning.  During these early years in Florence she was accepted into the prestigious Accademia di Arte del Disegno, which also required the approval of her father.  During this period Michelangelo Buonarrot, the Michelangelo’s nephew, asked her and other artists to contribute a painting to the house he was building to honor his uncle.  

Allegory of the Inclination (natural talent)
Allegory of the Inclination

Her letters reveal a love affair with a wealthy Florentine named Maringhi .  Her husband wrote to her lover in friendly terms using the backside of her love letters.  Perhaps Maringhi provided financial or other forms of assistance. By 1621 she and her husband were no longer cohabiting, and she had returned to Rome.  She found less success there than in Florence, and by 1630 she moved to Naples, finding lucrative work with the Viceroy.  In 1638 she went to London to help her father with a ceiling for which he had been commissioned. 

In Alexandra LaPierre’s Artemesia their reunion was awkward at best, coming after 25 years of separation.  LaPierre portrays Orazio as fearful of being outranked by his daughter.  By 1642 she had finished the work he had been hired to do,  leaving England some two years following her father’s sudden death in 1639.  She disappears from the records until 1648, when she is back in Naples

While it is true that there were few women painters in this period, there were others.  Italians of the era were Sofonisba Anguissola, Lavinia Fontana, and Fede Galizia.  Per LaPierre, Artemesia’s success in Naples encouraged a number of female competitors.  

Judith and Her Maid Servant
Judith and Her Maid Servant.  Her treatment of robes is as good as anyone’s.

Most of her paintings feature women as protagonists.  While most women were portrayed demurely, her’s were strong and uninhibited, and making a mark in history.  

For a broader view of women in art in that era see the video by Art Historian Dr. Vida Hull

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KldzQxoS5-U[/embedyt]

There is a good article on wiki if you want more information.   wiki on Artemisia Gentileschi  I highly recommend LaPierre’s historical novel referenced above.  There a very good video on youtube.   The producer expresses outrage at the lack of exposure of this fine painter.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BoYF2rjCG68