blog

Hoorn

by
July 29-30, 2019 
 
Hoorn (circa 1200) is another of Holland’s charming historical villages.  It is on the Ijsselmeer south of Medemblik.  On our boat it took about four hours.  The sea was calm, fortunately, and the strong breeze kept us quite comfortable in another warm day of around 27c (80f).   There were many people out sailing, mostly closer to shore that we were.   In the photo below you see the ferry that goes between Medemblik and Enkhuizen.

 

The ferry between Medemblik and Enkhuizen
Entering the lock at Einhuizen. Made just for pleasure craft, one of the easiest we’ve been in
 
The harbor in Hoorn is quite impressive, starting with the Hoofdtoren, a fortification dating from 1522,  one of the last remaining.  From here ships traveled around the world for the Dutch East- Indies Company VOC.   There is a bronze sculpture of the characters of a popular 1924 novel about a 17th voyage to the East Indies. 

 

Entering the harbor in Hoorn

 

 
We came to rest in the Binnenhaven, which we’d rejected at first as being fully occupied.  However after calling the havenmeister (harbor master) we found that here you are expected to allow others to moor to your boat.  He was there to meet us on his dinghy -I was expecting him to be in or near his office – which is equipped to help moor when necessary, and stayed with us as we docked just in case, as it was a close fit.   We were moored with a youngish couple with two boys around 8 years old, very friendly and on the way to Lelystad in a few days, as were we, as well as a bird sanctuary just off the coast of that town.  They have a 12 meter boat but only about 2 meters wide and close to the waterline, so they chose to move so they would be able to see out more readily.

 

 

 

 
Bontekoe’s shipmates from the novel

 

 

Hoorn’s name may have come from Hornus, the stepson of King Radboud.   However there are two other possibilities, one a sign depicting a post horn in an early 14th-century hanging in Roode Steen Square.  A third claim is that the name comes the shape of an early port.  Another is that the Hoorn derived from Damphoorn, a medieval name for a abundant local weed made into whistles.  (see https://wikitravel.org/en/Hoorn). 
There are several museums.  We visited the Fries Museum, in the former  (1632), the meeting place of the council of Westfriesland.   There are a half dozen or so excellent group portraits in one of the rooms, and a significant number of portraits with out of proportion heads.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View from Statencollege of Roode Steen Square

 

 

Banquet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Between Hoorn and Medemblik you can travel by steam locomotive. 
 
Steam Locomotive Hoorn to Medemblik. It is 105 years old
The volunteers have painstakingly restored the engine and cars.  We enjoyed the company of a tall blond (there are many here) and her two girls, here depicted with the volunteer attendant in very well made traditional costume.  
 

 

Next:  dropping six meters from the Ijsselmeer into Flavoland.

Cruising from Alphen on the Rhine to Medemblik

by
July 25, 2019 
 
Since Gouda we have been on the move, visiting interesting small towns.  From Alphen on the Rhine we cruised to Oost-Graftdijk, which has a harbor whose entrance is barely wider than our boat.  There was a friendly harbor master on duty that day.  This marina is organized as a club so members have to contribute time.  Managing the harbor is one of the things they do.  He told us about boating in Germany.  There is now a license requirement, so I will spend the next 10 days finding out how I can get the International Certificate of Competence,  finally finding someone in Holland who can give me the practical test.  Of this test the instructor said that if you have been boating for 10 years and have not divorced or be involved with lawyers then you will pass.  It mainly consists of boat handling in tight quarters.  I am good at that, the occasional scratch notwithstanding.  The written test concerns the rules of the waterway, signs and signals, not too hard if you study enough. 
Next was Haarlem again, there so our guest could tour the town and make it to Schipol Airport easily for his return flight.  

 

St Bavo, in the main square of Haarlem

 

Haarlem is home to the Franz Hals museum.  Hals (1582 – 1666) was a Dutch Golden Age painter noted for his loose style, characterized by visible brush strokes, previously considered a fault.  He painted in layers as was the common practice, although you might think he was more spontaneous given the visibility of his brush strokes.  Mostly he painted portraits, and is best known for his group portrayals.  When he began his career the market had disappeared for religious themes, deemed as being too Catholic, leaving  portraiture as the major option for an artist wanting to make a living.
 
In the main plaza, aside from the church with its magnificent organ, there are the usual restaurants with outdoor seating, and a fish truck run by a friendly woman.  The truck has been in the plaza for over 40 years.  She took over from her father.  There is herring, eaten raw after being freshly cleaned, as well as deep fried fish, smoked mackerel and Lekkerbeck, which is cod and served everywhere.  Herring, she explained, is seldom served in restaurants, as it must be freshly cleaned.  Other such trucks offer fries, which the Dutch do very well.   
 
From Haarlem we went to to Pannekoek Eiland, Pancake Island, on a lake just outside Akersloot.  The mooring is free with room perhaps for 6 boats.  A walk around the island takes five minutes at the most.  In front of us are two large boats and behind a nicely restored barge.  It is a pretty spot.  Unfortunately it was stormy the entire night.  Conditions worsened around 0500 the next morning, forcing the boat against the dock thus squeezing the air out of two fenders.  We were unable to sleep after that hour due to the howling wind and the motion of the boat. 

 

 

Viking moored on the island

 

 

We left for Alkmaar after the wind died down.  This is a repeat visit to collect visitors.   The following morning we took them through the lovely and winding canal to de Strook.  This tiny village has some of the most beautiful gardens and charming houses we have encountered in our two journeys through the inland waterways of the country.  Unfortunately I have no photos to share. 
The Weighing House in Alkmaar, now the Cheese Museum
 
The next day we went north to Den Helder via the longer of the two routes, and more intersting.  Once there, getting to the Jachthaven Willemsoord meant going through a lock connecting the fresh water canal with the salt water on the other side.  This lead to difficulties in tying the boat within the lock as there is a strong current, which is not common in locks.  When Peg tied to the middle cleat the stern popped way out towards the middle.  I was unable to bring it back in.  Next to us was a large barge, whose pilot and assistant were there to help.  He told me about the current and said the way to get into that lock is to secure the stern first. 

 

Snacks during the journey, prepared by Ximo and Andrea. Yum!
 
Den Helder has a naval museum that includes a Dutch submarine visit and a humorous sketch, that is judging by the audience reaction.  It was entirely in Dutch so we only had hints of content from the context. 
Ximo and Andrea made paella one night

 

 

One of the museum’s ships, under works
 
Ximo and Andrea at the North Sea
 
After our guests left I traced down a slow leak, which was coming from a fresh water pump (called an impeller) that sits on the engine.  I have to get someone to replace the seal, as I am uncertain about how it is constructed.  It is minor so no reason to delay our departure the next day. 
 
July 26th broke to strong winds, about 50 kph/30mph coming from the east.  We debated going into the Wattenmeer (Wadden Sea) to get to Medemblik.  This is faster than the canal route, part of which we have already used in getting to Den Helden.  There are no bridges and just one lock by the open route so it is faster than the canal and cooler, too, because of the breezes you get in open water.  By 1300 the wind had abated some so we headed into the main area of the harbor where yesterday a sea lion approached the boat, taking a look at us as if to wonder if we had any goodies.  Then we headed into the sea.   
 
It started calmly enough as we headed northeast out of the harbor.  The well marked channel takes you well off shore, as there the water can be shallow.  We used an app on our phone as none of our plastic coated paper charts covered the area.  The app worked quite well as it kept us on course, at least after I learned not to put the phone in the sun where it overheated and shut off.  The wind kept us quite cool the entire time but the phone was not in the breeze, having to stay in the shade.   
 
The waves mounted after a while.  We began to pound.  This means we were able to cut through the waves and not be heaved from side to side, which is less comfortable, but each time the bow would hit a wave it smacks into it.  At just 2 or 3 feet (2/3 to 1 meter), this is not terribly uncomfortable but a flat sea is nicer.  The bikes got some spray, and we had to close the portholes (windows) on the bow to keep salt spray out of the front cabin.  In less than an hour the waters calmed, for a while only, as it turned out. 
 
We were not alone in the wide expanse.  Many sail boats joined the action, some motor sailing despite the adequate wind.  The only power boat we saw in the 2.5 hours to Den Oever was a tug, who plowed up fast one meter waves.  Seeing them coming, I shied away then turned back to meet the wave at a 45.  We rocked, a drawer sprang open in the galley, but otherwise there was no problem.  We store everything that can fall every time we depart, part of our coastal cruise training via the US Power Squadron in the early 1990’s.   They offer excellent courses for very modest fees. 
 
There is a lock in Den Oever.  It allows you through the mighty dike that keeps the North Sea, of which the Wattenmeer is just an extension,  providing little protection for the country, thus the need to build the dike.   In 1953 the North Sea rose, flooding much of the Nederlands (‘Neder’ means ‘low’), killing thousands and causing billions in property damage.    This lead to the extensive dike system they have today.  Levels are constantly monitored and controlled by central computers.  Hundreds of thousands of structures are just a few inches above the waterline of canals, some are below, as we have seen the tops of roofs go by as we sail. 
 
Easy lock, built especially for pleasure craft.  Now we are in the Ijsselmeer, in fresh water again, heading in a southerly direction.  The wind was still strong from the east, so one can anticipate a beam sea.  This means that the waves hit you from the side, causing boats like ours to roll.  Sailboats have a deeper keel so they are less subject to rolling, and to make progress while under sail they tack back and forth anyway.  After a while we had to do the same, moving from 45 degrees to the south east to 45 to the south west.  This way you can cut through the waves and reduce the rolling.  You have to travel farther so it takes more time to complete your journey, but the ship’s passengers are more comfortable.  Our app kept us on course as we weaved our way through a long spell without buoyage to guide us.   We could see land the entire time, but you have to know where you are headed and not just hug the shore close enough to identify your destination.  
There are many boats in Medemblik and plenty of moorings, so when we arrived at 1800 we were able to find a spot.  It was hot, around 30c, 86f but cooled off considerably by 2300.  The next morning we got on our bikes, passing through the downtown shopping area just around the corner.   There were scads of bicyclers having coffee and applegebak (apple pie) and shoppers everywhere, as is common on Saturdays.   Not far from there we came to the windmill.  It dates from circa 1700.  It has been moved three times.  They still make flour, which they sell in the shop and to several restaurants.  It is staffed by volunteers.  You see the main gears for grinding during your visit.  I was struck by how the basic technology is so similar to automotive engines and transmissions.  The sails (the engine’s pistons) turns a crankshaft.  To turn the grinding stones you engage a gear composed of cogs, just like in a manual transmission. 
The town has a castle dating from around 1200.  It has been through at least two major renovations so the original look is not there anymore.   Just two residential wings, two square towers and one round tower remain.  Muiden Castle was built by the same man, a Count Floris.  “The name Radboud has been derived from the popular assumption that the castle was built on the place where in the 8th century a castle from the Frisian king Radboud had been standing.”  http://www.castles.nl/radboud-castle  Several of the locals we’ve talked to refer to this area as West Friesland, although today it is part of North Holland.  Friesland is on the other side of the Ijsselmeer, in the northeast part of the country, bordering Germany.  It is from there where we plan to start next year’s excursions into the northern part of that country.  

 

 

 

Radboud Castle, Medemblik
Painting of Radboud Castle, 1884

 

 

Gouda

by
July 11, 2019 
 
Gouda (pronounced as in ‘howda’) is 45 minute bus and train trip from our mooring on the Oude Rijn (Old Rhine, part of the Rhine river system) in Alfan aan Den Rihn.   Aside from being the home of the well known cheese, much more varied and flavorful than the bland version sold in the U.S., it has a superb city hall, Stadhuis, dating from the 14th century, the oldest such in the country. 
Stathuis
Stathuis main entrance
  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today is a market day, with loads of activity.  A woman’s chorus sang in front of the Stadhuis, a couple played a calliope while passing the hat.  It was excellent.  We made a contribution.

 

 

 
Aside from the rounds of Gouda cheese, much of the merchandise is the same from market to market.  We did see a wooden shoe maker selling his wares in Delft.  It is not an item the Dutch use much these days, although they do wear leather clogs, so the wooden version are marketed mostly to tourists. 

 

The cheese is sold in several varieties.  Jong Gouda is young, that is, aged just four weeks.  There are various states of aging up to over 12 months.  They become increasingly hard and sharp.  They are all encased in a plastic coating to keep them from drying out.  Most are industrially produced, however there are several hundred producers using traditional methods using unpasteurized cow milk, called Boerenkaas.     Boerenkaas, Noord-Hollandse Gouda, and Gouda Holland have Protected Geographical Indication status in the EU.

 

Delft

by
July 7, 2019
 
Here’s another charming Dutch town, dating from the 13th century, important historically as well as being to this day the home of technological R&D in the Nederlands emanating from Delft’s University of Technology.  It is also famous for Delft pottery, porcelain made using Chinese techniques developed in the 14th century and much prized in Europe from the moment of its arrival.  Delft pottery came to be in the 16th century.  It remains popular.  Sales last year were in the $36M range.
 
Delft is a popular tourist destination, for its charming architecture and the excellent Delft porcelain museum, as well as shops galore.  There are weekly street markets, at least in summer, like in many Dutch towns of this size.

 

One of several remaining gates of the walled city
Delft’s city hall
Willem the Silent, the first of the House of Orange to reign in the country, is buried at the Nieuwe Kerk in 1584, where there is a monument to him.  The succeeding members of the royal family are also buried there, the latest being Queen Juliana and her husband Prince Bernhard.  The church, dating from the 14th century, has a magnificent spire. 
Source: Wikipedia
The Oude Kerk dates from 1246.  It has a noticeable lean that builders tried to correct as it rose, without success.  Its most massive bell dates from 1570.  Due to its nine tons and the resultant vibrations, the ring it only on special occasions, such as the burial of a Dutch royal family. 
We toured Prinsenhof, Willem’s residence during the revolt from Spain.  Aside from some excellent portraits, it is also the interesting as the location of his assassination, ordered by the Duke of Alba, King Phillip’s representative.  You can still see the bullet holes on the staircase, enlarged by probing fingers before it was protected by a plastic cover.
 
Johannes Vermeer (1632–1675) was born in this city.   Delft streets and home interiors were the subject of his fabulous paintings.  We visited the Vermeer Center.  There are no original paintings, while the reproductions are of modest quality.  The narrative is excellent, however, and all the explanations and the short video are in English.
The Dutch East India Company was founded in 1602.  Delft then became a trading center, producing its wealth of architecture.

 

 

Willemstad, on the Hollands Diepe

by
July 3, 2019
 
This is Willemstad, a neat small town with a brick clad windmill, as well as a lovely old houses. l. There was an army of large vessels on this beautiful day.   Below you will see a traditional sailing barge, not particularly large but lovingly restored. 

 

From about 500 meters off shore
Town center
One of the harbors
Dutch humor

 

One of few streets in town
restored sailing barge with side keels
In the morning following our arrival we were looking for a place for our guests to try an uitsmijter, a hearty Dutch breakfast.  Nothing was open, the only sign of life being those headed for work by bike, bus or car, and a man walking his dog.  I asked him if there were any cafes open.  “Nay,” he said.  Realizing we were tourists, he explained that the town was a major naval port until the 1950’s.  This explains the octagonal shape and the bunkers.   They built the large bunkers in the middle of the 19th century, so my speculation that they were part of Hitler’s WWII defense system was wrong. 
The brick clad windmill still works, grinding wheat, I think he said. 

 

From Willemstad we back tracked about 5 km then headed north to Oud-Beijerland on the Spui River.  It’s narrow entrance on the Spui River is a bit of a challenge as the current is about 3 km per hour, so the boat crabs towards the entrance.  You have to straighten out at the last moment, once the river releases its grip.   It was lunch time, so we found a lovely place on the harbor.  On the menu:  mustard soup.  Sounds odd, I know, but the cream, onions, garlic and leeks make the mustard just a tangy addition.  We all loved it!  Salmon with various lettuces on dark bread, fries (the Dutch can’t have a meal without them), thin slices of smoked tuna.  Not a English menu in sight, the waitress had limited English, so the chef came to the table to help where our restaurant Dutch was inadequate. 

 

We were unable to stay the night to participate in the many activities, including loud music (playing reggeton, one of my least favorite), so we decided to try for Delft, the home of the famous ceramics.  This took us through Rotterdam harbor, one of the busiest in the world.  Huge ships and lots of them, so we dodged where we had to and otherwise stuck to the shore until we had to cross to go north.  Our preferred route took us further to the west than the one we ended with.  After entering the lock, the lock master told us a bridge was down along the way, so we had to back out of the lock.  Boats do not do well going backwards, but we managed.  Then we had to scoot across the waterway, head a few kilometers towards the center of Rotterdam, then make our way across yet again.  The small lock’s bridge was just tall enough for us to pass beneath, otherwise we’d have had to wait for several hours for it to open, as it was rush hour.  Once through we passed through one very low bridge, then found a nice marina on starboard side.  And there we rest.  

 

Dordrecht, an island in a recovered land

by

June 25, 2019

 

Dordrecht is an island in an inland sea, less obvious now given the recovered land. However, in the 14th, some three hundred years after its 11c founding on the banks of the Thuredrith River, a huge storm created what is now called the National Park of the Biesbosch, through which we traveled from our original starting point in Eindhoven.  This left the city isolated, but of course, they had boats!  It was not until the 17th century that enough silting had occurred that wealthy individuals in Dordrecht began the process of making polders, recovered land.  In 1953 another massive storm once again left Dordrecht surrounded, leaving thousands dead in the country.  Even after the major flood control efforts that followed, there are still flooding issues here. 
 
We are moored in the old town just off the river, where the passing barges and ships send motion through the narrow entrance to the harbor, causing the boats to rock and wiggle in their mooring boxes, tied at the front end to a post and to a small, low floating dock.  We exit the boat off the rear ladder.  It is just a two minute walk to the restaurants that sit on the river’s edge.  From there you see the busy river traffic, as ships come from the sea, Germany and the north of Holland laden with containers of goods, and the usual sand laden barges as well.  The water taxi zooms from one side of the river to another, it’s radar keeping an eye on the likes of us.   
 
On these warm days pleasure craft head for the Biesbosch in large numbers, as there are not many days when you can swim off your boat.  I took a dip on the way to Dordrecht, and planned on another in the Biesbosch.  However the engine cut off switch was not working so we ended in Werkendam.  I took a look below.  The wire wire was disconnected.  It was a simple matter to replace then clamp down the connection to prevent another occurrence.  You have to be a bit of a mechanic to operate a boat.
Peg looks for large vessels as we enter Dordrecht
Vaan Gogh lived here

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Winjhaven where we moored
Dordrecht was at the center of the revolt against the Holy Roman Empire.  The city was walled, with thirteen towers controlling entrance. 
 
One of the remaining gates to the city, facing the river
In July, 1572 the 80 Years War was intensifying.  William of Orange sought to free the Dutch from the Spanish Phillip II, the head of the Empire.  High taxes and famine were motivators, as well as the persecution of Protestants by the Catholics.  He sent a representative to the organizing meeting in Dordrecht, after which  William was recognized as the Statholder by the States of Holland.  This event is dramatized in a film at the Het Hof van Nederland museum, located in a historic neighborhood laden with grand architecture. 
 
There is a display showing changes in the religious make up of the country over the centuries.  You see the wave of Protestantism originating in Germany and Switzerland.    The Canons of the Dutch Reform Church were written here in 1619, following doctrinal disputes, and remain the basis of the Church in the Nederlands, South Africa, North America and Australia.  The major issue concerned predestination.  Both the Remonstrants and the Counter-Remonstrants believed in predestination, but not to the same degree.  They spent a year at the table before the latter prevailed. 
 
These days the Dutch are the most non-religious people on earth.  About 50% of the people declare themselves to be atheists, compared to around 10% in the US.  About 48% are members of a church, although many of those join for cultural reasons and are also declared atheists.  Churches are treated as museums in many cases, preserving the architecture and the art that survived destruction by the iconoclasts, who opposed artistic representations of the Christian deities.   They are magnificent if not quite up to par with what you see in Paris and Rome. 

‘s Hertogenbosch

by
June 16, 2019
 
‘s Hertogenbosch

 

This city of 150,000 offers a mix of traditional and modern architecture in its downtown area. There are restaurants, bars and cafe’s galore, most of them busy this beautiful Sunday. Meanwhile, huge silos of a defunct factory have been painted by artists in celebration of graffiti art. A break dance competition judged by three people of African origin with a black dude as announcer continues on the other side of the silos. But then it turns weird in a friendly way.

 

A small boat the size and shape of a grand piano floats by. Live piano player and a live singer maneuver through the harbor. Meanwhile a float with a tower holds a half dozen or so people dressed as coal miners who are then attacked by people in white outfits. Back in the canal an eight armed octopus lifts its arms while moving along, preceded by what looks like mushroom caps, followed by contraptions and what not, some of which would take long descriptions that just won’t communicate the scene adequately, so here are some pictures.
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Aside from the costumes, which allure to times ranging from the medieval to the industrial revolution, we were unable to fathom what it all meant, nor did anyone else we talked to other than one participant who said they were preparing for an event next week, suggesting this was all a dress rehearsal.  We did indeed watch them towing various platforms with small outboards. 
 
Two other items of interest are the bosche bol, a chocolate covered profiterole filled with real whipped cream, a local treat we are told are produced in the thousands by a local man, and sausage filled rolls.  We shared onf of the the former in a dessert and finger food joint around the corner from the mooring.  Quite the rich treat with a crunchy bit of chocolate, a thin layer of dough following by the richest cream this side of Ire;and.    
     
 

 

 

 

Alkmaar

by
June 2
 
Passing through the remaining seven bridges of Edam is a bit of a challenge due to the narrowness of the canal and the ever present wind.  At times our boat barely fit between the small bridges.  The harbormaster of the day biked from bridge to bridge to open them as we arrived, which helped.  Some of the bridges required him to pull down on a rope.  The last one or two are machine operated, just requiring the push of a button. 
 
Countryside followed the last bridge, with few boats and just one large barge that came around a curve on our side just past the ferry that was loading passengers.    The barge glided past while the ferry waited as both Viking and the barge passed by.  Along the way we saw several houses whose front doors were well below.    
 
At Spijkerboor there is an intersection.  We took the canal that takes you through or in the canal alongside Lake Alkmaardermeer.  There’s an attractive marina with a restaurant in the canal.  Dozens of boats were camped, passengers enjoying the sun. 
 
We moored a few hours later in Alkmeer, our second visit by boat to this town.  This time we moored for a day in the canal, made choppy with passing boats and frolicking teens spinning their small crafts to make the biggest waves they could manage.   We were fortunate to get a spot as there is a medieval festival this weekend, attracting many locals and tourists from afar.  The restaurants and bars were packed and the streets narrowed with by the people sitting at the sidewalk tables.  Traditional sailing barges and other boats lined the downtown harbor, where we stayed last time. 

 

 
The next day the crowds thickened.  Dressed in medieval garb, with makeup mimicking injuries, burns and various diseases as well, men, women and teens marched through town.  Many were in character, displaying mental disorders, and there were a few hunchbacks too.  Along came the well to do in fine frocks and Sunday best.  Vendors sold traditional foods along the route.  I was taken by the apple-cherry pie, which did not last more than a few steps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The harbormaster moved us off the main canal the next day.  We stayed two nights right in front of a restaurant, along with a few other boats.  The aromas and chatter lasted well into the night.  Aboard it was sausage and sauerkraut for dinner, for lunch a lekkerbek, a deep fried super bland white fish, with a bit of salad and the ever present fries.  A friendly Dutch woman explained the ‘beck’ is a word for mouth.  I already knew what ‘leeker’ meant.  So leekerbeck is ‘like mouth’ as in ‘tasty fish.’  I disagree.  
 

 

 

 

Edam

by
May 29, 2019
 
From our lonely spot on the Eem River we cruised into first the Goolmeer, which then becomes the Ijmeer, then the Markemeer, which in turn is  the Ijsselmeer, an inland sea that opens to the North Sea.  This is all one body of water with sections given these various names.  These labels allow you to locate yourself more precisely.  Nonetheless when it comes to major floods, such as the one in the mid-1950’s, when the North Sea rose leading to death of many thousands, the sea is the sea and only dikes can keep it at bay.  
 
We picked our day based on the gentleness of the winds.  The forecasters got it right.  It was sunny, with gentle breezes only, nary a ripple on the surface.  It was a beautiful journey at 5 knots (5.5 mph, about 9 km).  The most interesting sight along the way was the lighthouse at Monnickendam.  

 

View from the Bridge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
We skipped Monnickendam and Volendam in the hopes of securing a mooring in downtown Edam.    Edam is famous for its cheese, and like Alkmaar, for its cheese races during which teams of two carry scads of cheese.  

 

From Wikipedia
 

 

The name comes from the dam on the River IJe where the area was first settled.  It was called IJedam, which morphed into Edam.   A small lock that helps keep the sea out leads to a small canal which leads to 7 small, low bridges, for which you pay 1.20 euros to pass through. 

 

 

From WIkipedia
But what’s the hurry?   This town of 8000 is packed with charm.  There is a central square.  On one side is a typical tall house, leaning a few degrees as happens here when the pilings can’t keep it upright.  I imagine all the tables and chair legs are cut so that you can sit flat and not have things roll off the table during dinner.   At the square there is a large bricked hump over which you climb to get to the other side of the street.  It encapsulates the river Ej.  I have seen this unusual feature elsewhere in Holland. 

 

Bridge in Edam, watercolor, 8 x8,” 20 cm x 20 cm Arches paper
Our mooring – bikes on deck, secured for today’s journey
 
We moored just a short walk from the center, enjoyed some applegebak met slagroom, and took in the culinary and architectural charms.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Eemdijk, a small town

by

May 29, 2019

 

I have a new gallery.  They put up a number of my paintings.  Check them out at https://www.artsy.net/design-art-concepts/artist/gary-j-kirkpatrick  

 

We have been on Viking for almost a month, making necessary repairs, learning how things work, making it more comfortable for us, going through the previous owner’s tools, nuts, bolts screws, spare parts and so on.  We also had some painting to do.  Our Dutch friend painted the upper deck for us.  His 50 years of experience of steel boat ownership has been really helpful, not just on the painting but a lot of other matters as well.  His wife Ada knows a lot too, and helped us recover our mooring skills.  In our first boat we traveled over 2000 kilometers between Holland, Belgium and France but that was 18 years ago.  We went through hundreds of locks, docked a thousand times or more, but still, you get rusty. 

 

We left Weesp and turned south to the Eem River.  This is where we met Kees and Ada on our second night out in Caprice in 2000.  That mooring is gone as Eemdijk has grown and looks more prosperous.  There is another mooring a bit further upriver so we moored there.  There are fields and a bike path on one side and a prosperous farm on the other.  A friendly boater helped with the lines, but left later so we spent the night alone under the stars in the relentless Dutch wind.

 

Hand cranked ferry on a canal off the Eem River
Quite a few rowers pass by
A bike ride into the wind to Eembrugge, a few kilometers on a bike path
We saw this on the Vecht. The Dutch get on anything that floats

 

There are numerous bikers and some walkers as well.  If you go to Eemdijk you can take a small ferry across the river into town.  That ferry was not here in 2000. 

Today we leave for Edam, on the IJsselmeer.  This inland sea is rather like Lake Pontchatrain.  It can get rough, but you pick your weather.  It should be flat today.