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  • Nogent sur Seine to Moret sur Loing

    Nogent sur Seine is the highest point on the Seine that is navigable for us. Along the way you share the narrowing river with large barges who slowly carry reduced tonnage loads, reduced so they can remain afloat in the shallow areas. From Nogent we traveled first to Bray-sur-Seine, Montereau-Fault-Yonne (on the Yonnne River) and then Moret-sur-Loing (on the Loing). There is lovely countryside galore and very neat old towns. You can pass by at a walking pace or moor in or near the towns and enjoy the sites, sounds, foods and goings-on, a fine combination of relaxation and learning history and witnessing architecture.

    Nogent is the end point for barge traffic. Beyond that is an ancient lock, manually operated by appointment. A French boater had made an appointment so we followed him around to the moorings by the mill. The huge mill is fed by two channels, giving rise to two islands. One of them, named Olive Island , is entirely wooded and laid out for walking. The other island is connected to the shores by two ancient bridges. The islands are connected by the “spillway”, a long water reservoir surmounted by a footbridge.

    Moulin_de_Nogent-sur-Seine
    The mill in Nogent spanning the Seine.

    Moret dates to Roman times.

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    Joan d’Arc in Notre Dame, Moret-sur-Loing
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    Notre Dame in Moret
    church moret
    more mills
    The the mills in Moret were located here
    moret gate
    One of the gates in Moret
  • Half Timber Buildings, Compiègne, France

    Half Timbers in Compeigne
    Half Timber Buildings in Compiègne , France

    These buildings typically date from the 1400’s. They are best referred to as Tudor style structures. They developed in Tudor England beteen around 1485 and 1600. Often they lean to one side or the other these days, yet appear to be stable. This is one of the many charming views you can find in Compiegne.

  • Through Paris on our boat Viking

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    Notre Dame, Paris from our deck

    From about 20 km to the west from Notre Dame in Paris we cruised along the Seine, taking its curvy route past famous locations such as Ile de la Jatte in Courbevoie, famous for the impressionist paintings done there, to the Statue of Liberty, the Tour Eiffel, the Alexander III bridge, Concorde and the Île de la Cité. We’ve often stood on the bridges spanning the river as barges and pleasure craft passed beneath. I never thought I’d do the same one day, yet here I am.

    There was nothing unfamiliar to me, as I’d been on ships that take tourists around the two islands, so for me it was more of the boat experience. While the Seine can be tricky when in flood, today it was barely moving so I could just enjoy the craft cutting through the water. There was little traffic, just one or two tourist boats and a half dozen pleasure craft. We passed the Arsenal, the major port for pleasure craft, behind a lock, opting to continue our journey south.

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    liberty

    From earlier in the journey:

    il de la jatte
    Ile de la Jatte
    la defense
    La Defense
    houes on seine
    Along the river.
  • Ukraine: Reunited

    mother and child sm
    Reunited , acrylics on paper, 58 x 76 cm, 23 x 30″

    Acrylic painting of a Ukrainian mother and child. So many victims of Putin’s depravity.

  • Pen and ink sketch of the old hospital of Compiegne

    Now it is an exhibition space. Currently showing photos by locals, some really nice stuff. A friendly elderly gent came outside to invite us in.

    Pen and ink sketch of the old hospital of Compiegne, France
    Old hospital of Compiegne
  • Compiègne and its fabulous Château de Compiègne

    Compiègne, a town of some 40,000, sits on the Oise River. We moored just outside the town park where teen bands played to a largely teen audience. The bands need help, although the audience seems to not notice, or perhaps they are just too polite to boo. The grills fill the air with the aroma of sausage, and there’s cheap beer. Overall it’s better than a kick in the head.

    Compiègne_Château_01
    Main staircase

    But the rest of the town! Architecturally and historically it’s well beyond what it should be given its size. First, the Chateau. Built for Louis XV, who reigned from 1715 (age 5) – 1774, it was renovated by Napoleon. It was one of three royal palaces, Versailles and Fontainbleu are the other two, which tells you a great deal about its magnificence, even if it is a level below Versailles, and perhaps Fontainbleu as well. It was the preferred summer residence nonetheless, known for its excellent hunting as it sits even still on the edge of the large Compiègne Forest.

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    The Chateau is filled with furniture, but not from Louis XV. These were removed during the French Revolution. What we see now are from Napoleon. They are fine examples of the First French Empire style.

    In this Chateau, Marie-Louise was greeted by Napoleon, Alexander of Russia visited, and Leopold I of Belgium married Marie-Louise of Orleans. Napoleon III resided during the entire hunting season. The National Car Museum is housed in the Chateau. There is an excellent and large collection of coaches, early bicycles and motorcycles.

    The second very noteworthy structure is the Mairie (City Hall)

    mairie compiegne
    Maire of Compiègne- just behind me there is also a monument to Joan D’Arc, commemorating her capture by Burgundians in 1430.

    The town is of Roman origin. It was called Compendium. It was used for various governing activities by the Merovingian kings. Charles II 823-877 founded the Abbey of Saint-Corneille, now the library. There are several ancient churches. And just outside town is where the Armistice ending WWI was signed, as well as where Hitler humiliated the French in 1940. There is a replica of the train car used for these two events, and an excellent museum.

  • Amiens and its Soaring Cathedral

    Amiens is a small city (pop 135,000) in the Picardie region, just 120km/75m north of Paris. It’s main claim to fame is its Cathedral, a large High Gothic structure overlooking the Somme River. There are extensive hortillonnages  (gardens) where people were resting and playing as we walked in the cool May evening. There’s a lovely row of restaurants in the Saint Leu district along the river featuring moules frites (mussels with fries), huitres (oysters), as well as “macrons d’Amiens (almond paste biscuits), tuiles amienoises”, (chocolate and orange biscuits), “pâté de canard d’Amiens” (duck pate in pastry), “la ficelle Picarde”, a baked crêpe with cheese; and flamiche aux poireaus, a puff pastry tart made with leeks and cream. Gone are the Belgian beers, it seems, so readily available elsewhere in the region, so you are mostly getting lighter blond brews.

    The first settlement here was called Samarobriva , built by a Gaullic tribe called the Ambiani. The Romans renamed the town Ambianum, which morphed into Amiens. Those marauding Normans wreaked havoc in 859, returning for more in 882. In 1597 during the war with Spain, Spanish soldiers occupied the city for six months. In the 19th century the defensive walls were demolished to allow for larger streets in the center. Rail arrived in 1848.

    Amiens_France_Cathédrale-Notre-Dame-d-Amiens-11

    The 1918 Battle of Amiens led to the Armistice with Germany that ended the war. The town was fought over during both wars, suffering significant damage, including bombardment by the Royal Air Force during the Second World War. The downtown streets were widened. New buildings used brick, concrete and white stone with slate roofs.

    The Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Amiens  was built between 1220 and c. 1270 CE, rapid for this type of structure. It’s style is High Gothic. This is a fine example of the stle, with it soaring ceilings and thin walls.  It also has some Rayonnant features, a movement that came about in the mid-13th to 14th centuries. This brought more spacial unity, refined decoration, more and larger windows.

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    Christ Rendering Judgement, high relieve in the Cathedral

    While we were waiting for the tour of the choir an English speaking volunteer appeared, so we joined in. The choir was built by highly skilled wood workers from 1809-1819. It portrays stories from the Hebrew Bible (Old Testament).

    Jules Verne was born here, there is a museum in his name and the University carries it as well. The Musee de Picardie has a large collection of monumental paintings circa mid 1800’s, including a Lady Godiva. The large rooms with very tall ceilings make a good space for these. The archaeological section is in the basement. There are excellent examples of glass and pottery from the Roman era. In addition there

    Samura Parc Nature is an open air museum exploring pre-historic times. We took the boat there, taking advantage of the mooring at the pedestrian entrance. Discoveries in this area include remnants of skin covered tepee-like structures, some with smoke exits, dating from paleolithic times. More sophisticated shelters appear, with thatched roofs with about 30 square meters ( about 400 square feet). Dwellings from the Gaulic era, 5000- 1st century when the Romans conquered Gaul, could be quite large and advanced. They show one example on the site.

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    Skin huts

    The site provides demonstrations of flint starting with a huge piece so you could see what flint looks like before it is worked, and other tool making, including a forge with basic bellows. They demonstrated spear hunting, showing how using a sling greatly increases velocity. They made bread using nettles, honey and water as a starter. Honey feeds the yeast that naturally occur in the environment. There is a display of human skulls starting with Lucy, including a Neanderthal and a modern human so you can readily compare them.

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    Making flint tools

    The demonstrations are entirely in French, with explanatory plaques also in English . You can buy honey products, including drinks, at the store you find at the usual places, at the exit.

    The boat moorings are very convenient to town. However they are close to the English Pub. On a Thursday night we were kept awake until the wee hours.

  • Australia’s WWI Visitor Center- among the very best!

    From our mooring on the Somme we biked to the ridge upon which stands Australia’s WWI Monument and the superb Sir John Monash Visitor Center. Given its height and the commanding view if offered, one can see why the German Army picked this spot. Facing away from the Somme it is less imposing and it is from this direction that the Australians came, and yet still struggled mightily. The tower at the center of the complex is about 8 stories high and from here the view over the now tranquil farmland and towns with their church spires is delightful. Corbie, where we are moored, shows us its lovely old church, closed for renovations (we got in by chance), a fine reference point.

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    The superb audio visual presentation in the Sir John Monash Cernter gives a well defined account of the efforts of these volunteers. At the time the Australian constitution prohibited its standing army from participation abroad. 416,809 men enlisted, there were more than 60,000 were killed with 156,000 other casualties. Some 24,000 died just taking this ridge.

    There are 20 audio-visual screens sensed by the device the Center provides. The narrative takes you through the battle and some of the life stories of those who survived intact, handicapped, maimed, suffering from PTSD, or died, and words from loved ones. For more information see https://www.dataton.com/showcases/sir-john-monash-centre-france

    Here the Second Battle of Villers-Bretonneux April 24–27, 1918. The losses were losses were heavy, gains small. They later fought the Germans in August, as the former sought to maximize gains in advance of the arrival of significant numbers of American troops and equipment.

    Monash created a battle plan that was widely hailed, coordinating the efforts of air, tanks and ground forces, greatly aiding the effort to take the ridge. The Center opened in 2018. It

    tower
    view of graves
  • Water Games

    Water Games in Arras, France pen ink
    Water Games, pen and ink 21 x 39 cm/8.3 x 11.7″

    We were moored in the north of France during the weekend’s fun and games.

  • Noyon: Charlemagne crowned, Joan of Arc fought

    Noyon was founded as Noviomagus by the Galls (Celts), the name meaning “New Field” or “Market.” It was later changed to Noviomum under the Romans, morphing into Noyon. It has a fabulous 105 meter long early Gothic church (and former cathedral). In the Romanesque cathedral which once stood on the same site before it burned in 1131, Charlemagne was crowned as co-King of the Franks in 768. Hugh Capet was crowned here as well, as the first Capetian king, in 987. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noyon_Cathedral Joan of Arc fought the British here, at the Somme River. The Maire (City Hall) is a superbly restored Gothic structure, suffering significant WWI damage.

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    Maire (City Hall), Noyon. Monument notes the crowning of Charlemagne
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    Note of visits by Charlemagne and others
    joan arc church
    Joan of Arc chapel
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    12th century stained glass, Noyon Cathedral

    The Treaty of Noyon (1516) ended the War of the League of Cambrai, part of the Italian wars. As part of the Italian war most of the town was burned in 1557 by Phillip II.

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    Monument to British WWI dead