Gary J. Kirkpatrick

Author: Gary Kirkpatrick

  • WW2 in Warsaw

    July 30, 2018

    Today we took our 3rd walking tour of Warsaw. In the first we went to various locations in the Stare Miasto, Old Town. The second was about Communist Warsaw, led by a woman who grew up during that era.  She had to stand in line for everything,  and witnessed the suppression and growth of Solidarity, leading to the downfall of the Iron Curtain.  This afternoon we took the tour of WW2 Warsaw. It takes you to the Jewish ghetto and the location of some of the sites of the uprising in October 1944.

    Memorial to Jewish victims of the Nazis

    The ghetto was set afire by the Nazis to defeat the 1943 uprising. Today its location is marked on the pavement- they speak to you of the nightmare the Nazis created. Rations were a mere 200 calories a day for Jews, and 500 for Poles. Jews were allowed no medicine. If anyone helped a Jew, the penalty was death for that person and the entire family.

    Memorial to resistance fighters
    Memorial to children who helped fight the Nazis.
    Statues of resistance fighter entering the sewer system

    The resistance used the sewers to move from several areas in and near the old town.  The sewers were in use at the time, unlit and required one to walk bent over.  Movements had to be in complete silence.  Eventually these were closed down by the Nazis.

    In preparation for the 1944 uprising, the underground raised money for weapons and supplies by robbing a bank.  Money was transferred from the Polish central bank by armored car.  They raised the about $10 million in today’s dollars.  The uprising took a heavy toll on the city and the population.  The Nazis killed 200,000 people, destroyed about 90% of the old town and 65% of Warsaw as a whole.

    The bank from which the resistance stole $10m. You can still see wartime damage to the brick

    These two uprisings were the largest of occupied Europe.  The 1944 uprising not only hoped to help defeat the Nazis but to keep Poland out of Soviet hands, whose invasion of Poland made no friends in the county.  The result of the Yalta conference as well as their defeat in the uprising, while the Soviet army watched from across the river, led to post war deportations and murders by the Soviets and 50 years of bad governing.

  • She’s A Looker

     

    She’s A Looker, digital version, prints only

     

  • Wroclaw: Complex history, rich culture

    Wroclaw: Complex history, rich culture

    July 2018

    The train carried us for a bit over two hours in a full six person compartment, my 20 kilo suitcase perched precariously above our heads.  We are going from Poznan to Wroclaw.  Wroclaw has a complex history.  It was born in Poland, later controlled by the kingdoms of Bohemia, Hungary, Austro-Hungarian Empire,  Prussia. and  Nazi Germany.  It was founded circa 950, like Poznan on an island in a river.  Also like the other cities we’ve visited  it was a member of the Hanseatic League (1387), which helped make it a wealthy city.  Among its famous inhabitants are a director of the Clinic of Psychiatry, Alois Alzheimer.  A professor named William Stern developed the concept of IQ in the same turn of the century era.  

    During the war there was no fighting until February, 1945.  The Germans decided to hold the city and did so until after the fall of Berlin.  About 50% of the city was destroyed, some by the Nazis who did so in their efforts to fortify the city and the rest by Russian carpet bombing, with 40,000 civilians killed.  By that time refugees from Germany and elsewhere had increased the population to nearly one million, including some 50,000 slaves and 30,000–60,000 Poles relocated after the end of the Warsaw Uprising.   After the war the German population of 190,000 was forced out.  Poles ejected from its eastern territory, mostly around Lviv now in Ukraine but then in the Soviet Union, then moved in.

    Wroclaw, called Breslau when it was in Germany,  is jam-packed with notable architecture of various styles including the predominant Gothic, some significant examples of the Baroque, at least one Bauhaus (the bank building in the Rynek), Art Nouveau, and of course some Soviet era concrete block.  

    .   The Rynek is spectacular, a large open space surrounded by fabulous buildings in various styles

    The Brick Gothic Old Town Hall in the Rynek dates from the 13th c.  You can visit the original council chambers, with period furniture.

    Old Town Hall

    Also in the Rynek is the Gothic style St. Elisabeth’s Church (Bazylika Św. Elżbiety).  It has a 91 meter/300′ tower. St. Mary Magdalene Church (Kościół Św. Marii Magdaleny),  dating from 13th c, is not far.  

    St Elizabeth Church
    Rynek, Wroclaw

     

    The city was founded on an island now called Ostrów (island) Tumski (Cathedral) in the Oder River.  Wroclaw Cathedral dates from circa 950.  There are several islands and altogether there are hundreds of bridges making it among the highest number in the world, just barely behind Venice.  

     

    Cathedral, rebuilt after the war

    We paid the extra to see the chapels, rewarded by the superb sculptures of the Giacome Schianzi chapel.  I later learned that the St. Elizabeth is by Ercole Ferrata, a student of Bernini, and that the cardinal’s tomb is by another Bernnini student, Domenico Guidi.  Bernini!  No wonder I was so floored.  

    Detail of sculpture, chapel by Giacome Schianzi
    St Elizabeth in the chapel by Giacome Schianzi

    The unemployment rate is just 2.2%.  People from around Europe come here looking for work as a result.  This is inflating wages and prices generally, although it is quite inexpensive still compared to France, UK and even less than Spain.  We have had lunches for two with a beer for from $10, in Valencia lunches start at $12 with wine, in Paris closer to $18 plus wine. 

     

  • Poland’s Enigma in WW2

    Poland’s Enigma in WW2

    We ran across the sculpture and exhibit concerning the breaking of the German Enigma code while walking in the downtown area of Poznan.    I’d heard both that the Polish a Brits broke the enigma code.  There is an excellent movie called “The Imitation Game” about Alan Turing, (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alan_Turing ) 

    In late 1932 Marian Rejewski broke the code of the German Enigma machine.  Without knowing how the machine was wired, he was unable to read the messages. Hans-Thilo Schmidt, a French spy obtained information including the daily keys used in the fall of 1932.  They put these materials into Polish hands. With that information and actual coded messages Rejewski was able to turn the coded messages into understandable text.  Later the Germans added two more rotors.  The Poles did not have the resources to break the code again, and thus passed the baton to the UK in July of 1939.  Rejewski, and cryptanalysts Jerzy Różycki and Henryk Zygalski in the interim developed extensive materials which they gave to the UK as well.  Thus Turing was not starting from scratch.

  • Can’t Get Any More Obvious — The Marionette

     

    Digital painting, prints only

  • My pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral

    My pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral

    My pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral.  My travel notebook is 14 x 22, 5.5 x 8.5″

    my pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral

  • Peg in Vincent’s Wheat Field (digital)

    This is after Van Gogh’s “Wheat Field with a Lark.”   Starring my wife Peg and my friend Vincent.

     

    Peg in Vincent’s Wheatfield, digital painting

     

  • Churches of Poznan

    Churches of Poznan

    There are three outstanding churches in Poznan.  The most important and oldest is not the most beautiful although in its setting it is quite charming.  The other two rank as among the best Baroque churches anywhere, which I say having been in all of the great ones in Rome, Palermo and elsewhere in Italy.  I have every reason to believe that they were both done by Italians using Italian marble and other materials.

    Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul is on Cathedral Island which is also shares with two excellent museums.   The first church on the site was built in 968.  The remains are still visible in the basement.  Starting in the 1300’s the church was rebuilt in the Gothic style, renovated into the Baroque style after a fire in the 1600’s.  The damage in 1945 led to its reconstruction in the Gothic we see today.  Pope John Paul II visited and is honored in the church.  The setting is a amidst lovely trees and buildings, some church owned, on the small island where Poland was founded.  The site was at one point a palace.   Archaeologists have excavated the area, which is in front of the cathedral.

     

    my pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral

    St Stanislaus 

    This stunning church was built in the 1600’s.  Along with it is a Jesuit college.  For interesting details see St Stanislaus 

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    Church of St Anthony

    For more information click on the link above

     

     

     

  • Murals in Poznan

    Murals in Poznan

    Poznan has some excellent murals.  The largest and most fabulous is in the  Śródka district, one of the oldest towns in Poland, now a district of Poznan near Cathedral Island.

     

    ul. Kantaka 8/9

    ul. Kantaka 8/9,  Created by Italian street artist Blu, who has also painted murals in Wrocław, Gdańsk, and Kraków

    Upside down tower

  • Strolling Torun

    Strolling Torun

    Torun is small and thus easy to walk.  It is full of remarkable architecture, with many restaurants, bars and cafes to add to your enjoyment.   The buildings range from the brick structures daring from the 14th century Teutonic Knights to the Gothic to Art Nouveau and Art Deco.   The town was not damaged in WW2, so the buildings are not newly rebuilt.

    One of Toruń ‘s fabulous buildings in the small old town

    Toruń is another of several Polish city members of the Hanseatic League.  The prosperity led to the three main styles, Gothic (dating from 1200’s) in brick, Mannerism and Baroque.    The city walls and the now ruined castle are from the Gothic period.    

    Torun old city walls

    City Hall, Toruń , Gothic, 1274

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The Cathedral of SS. John the Evangelist and John the Baptist (14th century) has some wonderful sculptures and paintings from the era, including a  Moses and St. Mary Magdalene.  The multiple altars are ourstanding.

     

    Altars in the Cathedral

     

    Copernicus was born here and, if you will allow just this one pun, the city revolves around him.  There are two museums that deal with him at least in title, this statue in front of city hall, and lots of reproductions of famous portraits.    

    Copernicus

    Street sculpture

    Street sculpture

    Ulica Szorka, Torun

    While you wander about you are tempted by the lody – ice cream – which is very popular in this comparatively warm weather, with temperatures as high as 28c, 80f in generally partly cloud skies.  Donuts are elaborately presented,  a variety of calorie rich cakes.  The city is most famous for its gingerbread, which fortunately for my waist line I do not like.  There is very good cappuccino, espresso and macchiato (small cappuccino) —  be careful about the latter as there is a small macchiato espresso and a the very large latte macchiato.    There are waffles with real whipped cream and cherry jam.    Gone are the pretzels, hard and soft, found in Cracow and the multitude of fruit stands and street markets from everywhere we have been.      Remaining is the ever-present beer, with wine still an expensive alternative, and I hope you do not like sugar-free colas as they are harder to find if not impossible.  Pierogies are everywhere in Poland so here as well, but I could not find latke, potato pancakes.  Since our 1998 visit the Italians and Turks have moved in, so pizza and donor kebab are popular, as well as hamburgers even.

    With our flat located within blocks of the Rynek (central square) we had the shortest possible commute.  This turned out to be not the case in our next destination, the historical city of Poznan.    On the other hand, we had two flights of these stairs:

    Our staircase