From Koblenz we turned north, continuing to run with the swift current. However , before we left Cologne we had to haul the boat out of the water. We’d grounded briefly on the way the Cologne (Koln) while attempting to enter a small harbor.. I was able to back us off the shallows with just a bit of scraping so I thought we had escaped with no harm, as there is a skid bar protecting the rudder and prop.. When later I accelerated to higher than normal cruising RPMs there was a loud rapping sound. We were lucky find a mechanic who was able to get us a quick slot at the only crane in the area, normally always booked. As it turned out the rudder needs a new bushing, which we will have to deal with over the winter.
In Cologne there are three boating clubs on the south side. At one we were helped into a berth by two members. From there it’s just 10 minutes or so by bike to the center of town along the river. There is activity everywhere in the pedestrian/biking zones.
Like so much of Germany, Cologne was heavily bombed. Again there is little left of the old center. However the famous Cathedral (Hohe Domkirche zu Köln[) was spared. It is a long time World Heritage Site and is Germany’s most visited, with some 6 millions each year. It’s 157m/500′ spires are the world’s third tallest. It is a top notch example of Gothic architecture. Construction began in 1248 but not completed until 1880, perhaps setting a record for the slowest project in history. It was to hold the reliquary of the Three Kings of Christian fame. I wonder where the bones were to come from.
On the same site Christians built the its first church. It seems likely that the Merovingian King Theudebert spearheaded the works. Another large cathedral on the site finished late in the 9th century. Called the St Peters of the North, it was 95 meters in length. Churches then had relics, which helped attract supplicants. Peter’s staff and chains were the items of choice.
Cologne has a 150 meter tower overlooking the Rhine. It offers great views of the river and its barge traffic as well as the general area.
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Gayle and I are leaving for a Viking river cruise in 10 days on the Rhine. We will go from Amsterdam to Basel. Your report was fortuitous timing. With the insanity taking place in this country it will be a blessed relief.
Paul Lentrichia
Bon voyage! The true relief we need is to get him out of the WH.