Author: Gary Kirkpatrick
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Go, Figures
Go Figure, Some More, , 21 x 29 cm/8.3 x 11.7″ Canson 300 gram paper Go Figure Again, 21 x 29 cm/8.3 x 11.7″ Canson 300 gram paper -
Laying in Leiden
After a cold and wet week in Haarlem we traversed the town’s bridges as we navigated south, getting a bit lost for a few minutes when we were uncertain about interpreting our new navigation software. The day had turned partly sunny, a rarity to date. We found our way into the municipal harbor in the historical city of Leiden, welcomed by the friendly and helpful harbormaster and his assistant. They were waiting at the two available spots, then had us turn around to face into the wind, as high winds were expected the following day.
Leiden is an ancient city at the junction of Oude Rijn (Old Rhine) and the Nieuwe Rijn, with earliest written reference dating to the 9th century. It is home to the famous Leiden University (1575), where the likes of Rembrandt and John Quincy Adams studied, along with 13 Nobel Prize winners. As we walked about students filled the streets visiting their favorite hang outs, shops and cafes, along with a substantial portion of the city’s population 125,000, with another 100,000 or so in the immediate area.
It is late spring so as in Haarlem there’s a fest, with a live band playing on a stage along one the many canals.
We stopped for fries at a friets haus (house). Note the clever add-on sauce cups in the photo. In one there’s mayo, in the other a peanut sauce, termed ‘satay’ here. The use the Indonesian term, a remnant of the days of the Dutch East India company that exploited that island nation.
The Pilgrims lived in Leiden before some of them left for the “New” (to them) World, some remaining behind to eventually blend in with the locals. They resided in the area surrounding Pieterskerk. FDR, the Bushes and Obama trace their heritage to this location.
Pieterskerk is a magnificent former church with ceiling soaring high above. Its long central isle has a large organ at one end. There was a chapel here circa 1100, while construction of the current building began in 1390. It became a Protestant church in 1572, The church’s artwork was destroyed during that period, as is common in the Netherlands. The church was deconsecrated in 1971. It isnow is rented out for events. Where the altar once was there now sits a bar with tables.
Beginning with the siege of 1574, there was an annual meal giving thanks for the liberation of the city and the arrival of supplies. This might be the origin of the American Thanksgiving celebration.
Pieterskerk Small houses snuggle against the towering walls. A pulpit seems to hang mid-air.
A short walk through the old and former church Leiden University is both impressive and comprehensive in its offerings. Its library contains some 5 million volumes and numerous collections. Affiliated with the Royal Netherlands Institute of Southeast Asian and Caribbean Studies, the University houses the Leiden Observatory (1633), the Natural History Museum, the National Museum of Antiquities, a museum of Dutch antiquities, three ethnographic museums, as well as geology and mineralogy museums. The botanical garden is one of the oldest in the world, going back more than four centuries. The large university has no central campus, it’s buildings scattered about. This makes for lots of bike and foot traffic, adding to the dynamic feel. I imagine that living here would be a culturally enriching.
As the weather improved so we had several extensive walks on the busy streets along the canals, and the quieter narrow streets in residential areas. The architecture is typical Dutch, laid out along canals, alleys and a few main streets with little traffic to be found in the center areas.
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Four Figures, pen and ink drawing
Four Figures, pen and ink -
Pérouges, watercolor painting
Perouges, watercolor, 21 x 29 cm/8.3 x 11.7″ Canson 300 gram paper Not far from Lyon is the medieval, walled village of Pérouges. It’s name is derived from Perugia, Italy, a mountain town dating back to the Etruscans. Legend has it that French visitors to Perugia returned to France and then founded the town at least 1000 years ago. It is recognized as one of the most beautiful French villages, see Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Human presence dates at least to 1500. For more see my entry at One of the most picturesque villages.
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Eating the Lyon
Cuisine Capital of France: that is Lyon. We are here again, curious to find out more about what holding this title means. What do people eat and how much do they pay in the markets, the bars and restaurants? I have anecdotally added to my sense of what’s happening.
We rented an apartment on a busy street near the center of town. Next door as well as across the street are very popular local bars. Beer is the alcoholic beverage of choice in these bars, not wine, so if you think France is a strictly or even predominantly wine culture you should take pause. The French love to eat, but take pause again. In the bars very few people have something to eat, not even peanuts or some such, as they nurse their beer for hours while blathering to friends and lovers.
Also on our street, practically next door, is a bakery, labeled ‘artisan.’ Aside from the mighty French baguette, there’s the even better ‘tradition,’ produced the old fashioned way, yielding a crustier bread and better text for many 10 or 20 cents more. The French have bread making down to an art – the ones more ‘scientifically produced are termed ‘pain industrial’ and do not compare to the real thing, excelling only in shelf life.
You pay by weight for some breads. Not far away is a patisserie, a pastry shop that may also sell chocolate. The red pastries you see below, called pralines, are a Lyon specialty, made with almond paste and red dye. It is super sweet pastry. There is also a wide, no, an immense variety of other desserts, from the wonderful eclair to the Napoleon, short like him, but otherwise tasty.

Patisserie, watercolor painting Many bakeries offer a lunch special, a baguette, a beverage and a dessert for €7-9. By comparison, most sit down restaurants offer a first, an ‘entree,’ (meaning the first course), a ‘plat’ (main course) and sometimes either a dessert or coffee for around €20, an amount most people can not afford to do too often. The minimum wage is about €18,000 a year.
An extra fancy chocolate shop Here’s what’s on offer at this place (see below) for €18.50. You get an entree + plat or plat + dessert, pay €4 more to get all three. For firsts there is a ravioli with a cheese sauce made with St Marcelin cheese, or onions gratinee, or eggs muerette (a red wine sauce cooked with bacon, onions, shallots, mushrooms and various spices). For seconds there is a steak, a foix gras dish, or a pork filet. For dessert its a praline tart with whipped cream, a fromage blanc (a not sour, sour cream like cheese) dish, a cheese spread with herbs or a sorbet.
Beaujolais wine is produced just a bit north of Lyon. The low tannin Gamay grape is primary in the area. Among the famous wines are Nouveau Beaujolais, a fresh wine that comes out with great fanfare in early November each year. Since the region is so close I expected wine tasting to be a big part of the local scene. Indeed, there are about 16 wine bars, nothing compared to the number of regular bars, but I think far more than one would find elsewhere in France, let alone other wine producing countries.
We went to two wine bars during our ten days. A glass of mid range wines runs between €6 and €9 at each. The second one we went to is called La Bouteillerie. We had two glasses each, delivered with extensive commentary from the host, whereas at the first our host barely said a word. We talked extensively about the aromas and flavors, as well as the viscosity (‘legs’) of the wines. We were among the first there at 6 pm so he had more time than he might when full, taking about ten minutes with us. It’s not a large place, just three tables inside and three out, so I bet he does a lot of talking regardless. At the very least he discusses the clients’ preferences, coming up with a recommendation if they want one, as we observed as the place filled. He was so communicative that when he learned we were going to his home town of Annecy he gave us restaurant recommendations without us asking. Of course you would want to know where to eat.
We ordered a cheese and meat plate to go along with the wine. The plate was so covered in salad that at first I thought he’d forgotten the cheese and sausage. However there were several very good, very room temperature soft cheeses – this is the way you are supposed to serve cheeses like Camembert as you get the most flavor that way. There was some rosette. A rosette is a Lyon version of salami, rosey in color, thus the name. There were several terrines, ground meat formed into a loaf. One had pistachios, each was spiced and flavored somehow or another. This delightful experience ran us about €60. He only served us €6 wines, not by our request but his recommendations based on what kinds of wines we each like.
Bouchon Les Lyonaisse, another member of the Bouchon Association of restaurants , is at the bottom of a steep hill, about 250 leg aching, next day painful steps down from the L’Antiquaille. Lyon’s excellent early Christianity museum housed in a now closed hospital founded by nuns centuries ago. A bouchon is an old style of restaurant originally serving the canuts, silk workers, specializing in hearty but inexpensive food. They do not seem to be that inexpensive to me, but it is indeed hearty and tasty cuisine. You can avoid the tripe and other innards if you like.
A look at the interior of Les Lyonnais. This is the second bouchon for us. This time it was a lentil dish for an entree and a ravioli for the main. The lentils were in a vinaigrette, the ravioli in an Ementhal cheese sauce, and a lot of it. Both were super, served with some of the best bread ever, by friendly staff. Being friendly is part of being a bouchon.
Salade de Lentilles Vertes au Cervelas (a sausage found in several EU countries) Gratin de ravioles du Dauphiné Label Rouge This lovely lunch ran about €70. Not exactly cheap, is it. If you want cheap yet still good, go to the bakeries or the kebab shops. In the latter a kebab meal, sandwich, fries and beverage run from €9-13.
Wherever you go, you will enjoy!
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In the Mouth of the Lyon
Flying north takes me easterly over the water first to Palma de Mallora before winging in the correct direction, an hour later settling lower over the lush landscape of France west of Geneva.
Over the Rhone The Rhone Express, perhaps better named the Rhone Decaffeinated, crawls though intersections after brusque rushes past farms, dropping me off at Gare -Dieu (don’t ask me why they need a dash in there when they need it instead on on the train). The landlord let me in, gave me a few incomprehensible instructions and one or two otherwise and off I went. It’s wine and cheese time and I’m on my own in the big city.
None can compare to a Rustique Camembert. Take my word for it, I’ve tried the expensive shops, paid much more and come back disappointed. (Note to my Valencia readers- you can get one at the Mercado Central in the center where they have the belens at Xmas time). I looked for one in the small epicerie a minute from our turn of the century front door. They not only had it but another of my favorites as well, a monk cheese with a washed skin that gives it an almost crunch texture. It’s called Chausse de Moines
Wine and Cheese, water color and ink Mon dieu! I’d forgotten the bread. Another minute wasted as I shuffled down the street to the artisanal bakery. My moment was saved.
A mere day later then came the Missus. Our Lady of Perpetual Motion. She of the Map. Known by many names, off we went. Not that my days of wine and cheese were over. It’s a land of wine to go with the cheese. For 4-5 € there’s a good one even in the supermarket. There’s a Merlot (gasp go the winos), rond et fruite from the Pays d’ Oc, further south, while here you can get Beaujolais, including of course its famous Nouveau, and a tiny bit further the wines of Burgundy appear. I found a Petite Chapelle from Burgandy at the Super U. Not much fruit left but lots of complex flavor nonetheless and enough legs to qualify as a Rockette.
It’s going to be a rough few weeks.
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Perouges, one of the most picturesque villages of France
On a small hill sits Perouges, a tiny medieval fortress-like stone-walled village. Founded some 1000 years ago, possibly by Gauls returning from a visit to Perugia, Italy, it’s streets are rough stone, difficult to walk on. The walls and buildings are stone, as well as just about everything else, a perfect example of what we refer to when we say, “They don’t build ’em like they used to.” I’ll say.
The town was on the border between France and the Duchy of Burgandy, which was not annexed until 1477, thus the need for its defensive walls.
Once housing a few hundred, now just 90 people live there as it converted into a tourist destination. It is about 40 minutes from Lyon by train (reduced prices on Sundays), and . You have to walk into town up a short but steep hill to get there. We came via the route that leads you to the main gate.
From a plaque in the church (translated and edited): Built around 1440 (time of Joan of Arc), Sante Marie- Madeleine is Gothic in style although the walls and narrow openings are Romanesque. This came about as a result of the church being built as part of the defensive wall of the city, found on three of its sides. It is thus a fortress church, (of which there are few- ed). There is a nave and two aisles. The sanctuary is not quite in the alignment of the nave, which gives the church a leaning character. This is due to the configuration of the fortifications, perhaps giving it a spiritual meaning by seeing the bowed head of Christ on the cross. A series of floor elevations: past the door main, we climb six steps to reach the entrance to the nave. At the end of it, we access to the choir by two steps, then into the sanctuary (ed) by three other steps, which produces a permanent ascent, from entry to sanctuary, and illustrates the spiritual path of Christian. The church gives the impression of great homogeneity. The nave is made up of seven spans. It is supported by large octagonal pillars (five of each side) Vaults and edges offer many decorative elements, particularly at the base of the edges (lamp bases) where we find plant decorations, animals and even small characters, a few grotesque ones, including devil figures.
There are signs of human habitation since circa 2500 BC, leaving behind the pottery they made, I imagine. The present humans specialize in making galettes, a sweet or savory flat bread. It is made with flour and butter, and in at least one recipe I have seen, they put in a bit of vinegar for the savory type. We ordered a tomato sauce, mozzarella and oregano version. It’s a pizza, other than the crust is softer, probably harder to make a crusty bottom given the butter. They are also into tulips, somehow connected with looking for a cancer cure.
A savory galette -
Some of the better Fallas Sculptures of 2024, a crema and a fireworks
Some of the better Fallas sculptures of 2024
Crema (burning of the Fallas) of Borrull Socorrs falla in Pexina























