We arrived on a Thursday and by Sunday we found a neat apartment in the old section of Valencia. It? near the Serrano Towers, dating to the 15th century and which were once part of the town wall. There is a view of the towers from the roof we can access. There are two bedrooms, so there is room for friends who plan to come. From the living room you look over a small courtyard which feeds into the network of mostly small, narrow streets that extends about a kilometer to the south. A short alley away there is a major pedestrian zone leading to the Plaza de la Virgen. A more charming location would be hard to find, if you are a fan of Roman era towns. Our landlady lives downstairs, her daughter upstairs and her son in the ‘finca’ (here it means a building) next door. We connect to his router. Getting cable internet installed here is a bit complicated so we give him 20 euros and we have a good connection. The Central Market is about 15 minutes. It is in a large domed building built early in the 20th The Central Market century, decorated with mosaics. Fruits, vegetables, olives, cheese, nuts, pork, beef, fish and more are available from the many vendors. It looks to me like one of best markets to shop in Europe, comparable to the one in Barcelona and the one we shopped in Madrid. You can get most everything here and the prices seem reasonable. For basic goods you can not get in the market there are a number of reasonably priced supermarkets a short walk across what once was the river, which was diverted to another channel after a major flood, in the 1950’s I think it was. It is now a garden and soccer field and I don’t know what else, sunken well below grade. The Corte Ingles is a short bus ride. It is Spain’s only department store. It’s upscale. We bought a great kitchen knife from them 12 years ago and it is still in fabulous shape. You might find grocery items there that you might not find elsewhere.
Author: Gary Kirkpatrick
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¡Valencia!
¡Valencia!
February, 2011
Valencia is where El Cid (meaning’Master, ‘from the Arabic ‘sidi,’) served as mayor. Valencia is known not just for its old quarter, Ciutat Vella in Valenciano, but also for its fabulous new science museums whose swooping architecture offers as much contrast to the old town as, say, hip hop does to flamenco.
The seemingly short flight from JFK, preceded by the dash through the snow from the white snows of our little Pennsylvania town, took us to Madrid’s new airport additions. From there it is about an hour by plane or a few more by train to Valencia’s own modernity, followed by a subway ride to downtown. We turned the wrong way out of the metro but we asked a fellow pedestrian and soon we were on the right track. With two back packs, one hanging from the front the other from the back, I could not walk too much farther and in fact had to rest a few times. With all that stuff and my warm coat, I weighed about 75 pounds more than normal.
We knew Ximo from our time in Florida. He was getting extra training in electrical engineering at the University of Florida and in fact helped us move once. We’d met him at international folk dance event, which we attended most Friday nights. Valencia’s his home town and after a night at a hotel and the following day some visits to apartments, we went to his parent’s house to stay until we found a place.
They live just a hair outside the periphery, a short bus ride you pay for with a card charged up at a ‘stanco’ also called a Tabac. Their house is tall and skinny. She is the opposite, short and not, but he is almost my height. We practiced our ‘vostros’ with them (I shall explain later), and find them fairly easy to understand. Besides they are friendly and welcoming. They even have internet in the house. My how modern Spain has become.
And also how expensive compared to our last visit. That was in 1998. We lived in Madrid. A lunch in an every day place cost around $5.00 then. During our first day and a half we ate out every meal and the minimum is around $10.00. This includes a first and second plate, a desert and a glass of wine. Compared to Paris, say, it is a lot of food, but not much cheaper.
One night they made a rabbit and chicken paella, with green beans, large white beans, baby artichokes and red peppers. I’d had two paellas for lunch our first day and a half here. This was much better than what I was served in one of the restaurants and at least as good as in the more expensive place. They cooked it on their patio on a huge gas burner using a large paella pan. In technique she does not differ from anything I have read or done.
We sat at the kitchen table, eating right out of the pan, which is the custom when it comes to paella. I got in trouble for eating the burnt part, but otherwise, it was a lot of fun. We hope to see them again.
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Kings Day Parade Photos
On January 5th we happened across the King’s Day (Epiphany) parade. This is a celebration of the arrival of the three kings to the baby Jesus scene in Bethlehem. This is the day of gift giving here in Spain.
The parade included jugglers, acrobats from the circus, and many people in middle eastern costumes of various sorts. Minnie, Mickey, Donald and the like also made appearances for some reason. The big attraction is all the candy and things the paraders heave as they pass by. The kids had a blast. We shared our space with 4-5 of them who otherwise would ahve been a little less well located.
One piece of candy landed on my hat and another in my elbow. As you can see you did not have to try hard if you had a good location. We did, at a Starbucks table. We got some coffee from elsewhere as there was no table service. I almost lost 15 euros as she gave me change for a 5 not at 20!
Select photos are here: https://plus.google.com/photos/111993279450383941292/albums/5830589852330944769
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Some mythical beliefs I have run across
September 26, 2010 — garypeg
Some mythical beliefs I have run across:
Latino beliefs
Last December at Christmas time, I was talking with a woman about the holiday. Somehow the subject of Santa Claus came up. She said she was sure that there was not one now but was not sure if there was one in the past. She was talking about a Santa Claus that went to each home on Christmas eve delivering gifts, not about a historical St Nicholas, for example (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saint_Nicholas).
Several times this year the subject of ‘La Bruja” has come up. La Bruja means the witch (feminine). The version I heard says that the Bruja hides at night and jumps upon unwary passers-by in desolate areas. She reserves special mistreatment for those who doubt her existence.
Also see;
http://songosmeltingpot.blogspot.com/2007/09/panamanian-myths-and-legends.html
Ngäbe beliefs I have collected. Ngäbes are an indigenous people who live in reserved areas called Comarcas, which are somewhat and only somewhat independent.
1) as related by a young Ngäbe woman in Santa Clara, Chiriqui in July, 2010
- A woman liked to drink blood during the full moon. She would go to a funeral to mourn but it was just to get near the body and at night she would drink the blood. Her activity was eventually uncovered and she was killed. The diviner told them to bury her face down or she would comeback. They failed to do so and she came back at the full moon, upon which they saw the shape of a donkey. She took the donkey form and then ate some people. But the diviner took the form of a tiger and killed her, cutting her into pieces for the animals to eat so she could not return.
- If someone dies under mysterious circumstances it can be blamed on people who badmouth others.
- If a baby is ill they think a spirit is tormenting it. They come together and pray to get rid of the bad spirit.
- A baby was ill. An uncle went for medicine and while he was walking he saw a naked person and a dog which began to run towards towards the naked person. He closed his eyes and when he opened them again the naked person had disappeared. Rocks began to fall on the uncle but he continued on. A voice said, “ Go no farther, the baby is already dead.” He went on anyway to buy the medicine but he had no money and could not make the purchase. He went back home and the baby had died when the voice spoke to him. 2) as related to me by a volunteer who has lived with the Gnäbes for two years.
- Myth of the headlamp: When they were still nomadic, people with lights coming out of their heads came and ate some Gnäbes. The Gnäbes went to the forest to find a protective herb, put it in a bottle, and the next time the people with lights came the Gnäbes were protected.
- If you keep candles lit the ‘maleantes’ (bad guys) can not bother you. If the candles go out, the maleantes will come.
- If the theory of evolution were true, then monkeys would be becoming humans, said one in response to an explanation of evolution.
- Evil eye stories (ojear is the verb for ‘to give the evil eye’)
- B was supposedly the victim of an evil eye because some woman wanted him.
- A previous volunteer in the community was also the victim, which caused her knee problems.
- E related the story of a boy who was walking to his family’s secondary dwelling. He complained of being tired and returned home. That night his sister woke up to find her brother standing in his bed with his head on backwards. He was dead the next morning.
- Twins have the power of the evil eye and they know it. One of them is always good and the other always bad. In T’s community one of them, was only fed chocolate beginning soon after birth. The parents had determined which of the twins would be evil and had deliberately caused his death.
- In E’s community the village matriarch died suddenly. E returned from an outing and found the village deserted. He eventually found them living in the rough, fearing her spirit would harm them. They had gathered some belongings and a piece of metal roofing, using it or just trees for shelter from the rain.






