Gary Kirkpatrick | Gary J. Kirkpatrick Art and Travel Blog

In the Grand Est with the Headless Monk

September 17, 2024August 12, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

We’ve been strolling along the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, connecting the Marne river to the Rhine. We switched to the Moselle for a glorious couple of dozen kilometers then back to the Canal.

We are in an area generally termed the ‘Grand East,’ the northeast corner of France, bordered by Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany and Switzerland. Some of the region was part of Germany from 1870 – 1918, avoiding damage from the First World War.

This is as rural as France gets: fields of wheat, corn, potatoes, beets and more. Neat small villages and old houses, more Germanic and Swiss looking as we transitioned from the Lorraine into the Alsace. The traditional cuisine changes as well, adding choucroute (saurkraut with pork chops, frankfurters and even more pork) but dropping mussels. There is Munster and Chaource in the cheese department, although there is still plenty of Camembert, even our favorite brand, Rustique.

Toul was home for several days, a long stop for us, with a cathedral and an old church worth a visit. The marina is in the center of town near a supermarket and a bakery. There’s even a hard to find boat repair yard. The Moselle River is close by and that’s where we headed next.

toul cahedral joan ard — A chubby Joan d’Arc in Toul’s Cathedral

We spent a night in tiny Liverdun. There are fabulous views of the river from cliffs above.

moselle view from top — The Moselle from Liverdun

In Liverdun you find the 12th century St Peter Church ( Eglise Saint-Pierre de Liverdun). It’s been classified as a historical monument since 1924. Legend has it that St Euchaire arrived here carrying his head in his arms, having been decapitated in nearby Pompey in 362, making the journey from there by horse. I I know of three headless travelers, Euchaire joining St Denis (Paris) and St. James (Santiago de Compostela). Haven’t had such headless travelers since. They just don’t make saints like they used to.

After Liverdun we returned to the Canal, passing through two tunnels, descending 45 meters/130 feet on the Plan Inclinee, a giant tub of water that moves on tracks, eliminating the need for a half dozen locks. We had lunch at a roadside restaurant, called a Routier (meaning ‘On the Route’), independent restaurants serving truckers and others on the move. There’s a huge first course buffet, with salads, sliced meats, olives and more, then cheeses (they come at the end of the meal in France, in case you need to stuff yourself even more) and desserts. The main course is to order, with very large servings of steaks, chicken, pork, sausage and more, served with the sauces the cuisine is known for. Nothing fancy here, but healthy as well as hearty. The last Routier we went to did it differently. A large pot containing a stew was set on the table, with a bottle of everyday wine. You could order off the menu, ‘a la carte,’ as well. Our friend ordered steak au poivre. I suffered with the thumper stew.

Climbing through many locks, we entered the Vosges Mountains, with lots of great scenery. We descended the Plan Inclinee, a 45 meter drop that eliminates the need for a half dozen locks. We passed some lovely old villages but Lutzelbourg is the prettiest and most Swiss-like.

Canal Marne au Rhin near Bar le Duc — On the Canal du Marne au Rhin near Bar le Duc

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Toul – gorgeous, light and airy nave

In Void-Vacon our new Dutch friend John made us mussels in a ‘sauce espagnol,’ a red sauce that has nothing to do with Spanish cuisine, but a variation of velouté except that it is made with dark stock like beef or veal, and a well-cooked roux. After dinner a biker from Romania came by looking to get his water bottle filled. He had biked all the way from Bucharest, was going to Paris to see the Olympics, then Spain for a race, then back home. No wonder he’s so skinny.

From Bucharest to Paris, Spain, Switzerland and back to Bucharest — Biker from Bucharest in Void-Vacon

Plan Inclinee France — Plan Inclinee as we descend.

nice scene — Heading into the 2.5k/1.5 mile tunnel

Even more locks, and still no bagels (continuation)

July 21, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

We continued our journey, stopping in Epernay, Tours sur Marne, Chalons-en-Champagne, then Vitry-le-Francois.

Epernay is at the heart of Champagne country, in good measure because it sits on the Marne. As we exited the Canal Lateral de la Marne we saw the muddy river flying past. Turning into it we immediately felt the strong current. We chugged the 4 kilometers to the marina to find the harbor master waiting for us at the dock to help us in. As we approached we could see why – there wasn’t much room left for the river to rise before we’d float onto the dock, meaning the fenders would easily come in above the dock so the boat itself would hit. Later that day we were told we had to leave in the morning. The regional authorities, who exercise control over the water level, were going to release more water from the reservoir.

Before the news arrived we took our guest to a Champagne house. The nearby house, Champagne de Castellane, no longer provides tours, so we found another. Last time we were here the harbor master hosted a generous Champagne happy hour, provided by Castellane. This is no longer possible as Castellane no longer provides the product free to the marina.

We departed early the next morning to beat the additional release from the reservoir. Our 7 kph speed against the current became 14 kph with it. Fortunately the comparatively small number of floating logs were swept to the outside of the curves, where the current is strongest, while we remained on the inside as much as possible. For some reason the current slowed just as we reached the lock returning us to the safe waters of the canal. Its activating mechanism is a bit down river so you have to move to it and then turn around. With the reduced current we were able to complete the maneuver.

Tours-sur-Marne came after that nail-biter on the river, offering a gorgeous setting with vineyards set behind the reflective still waters. It’s a tiny village with a single Champagne merchant. The church is from 1851. The grapes they grow were once classified as Grand Cru, the highest rating, used to set prices after a long period of price instability. The classification has long been abandoned.

The Canal Lateral de la Marne is lined with endless great scenery. Rolling hills and fields green with crops, potatoes, beets and more, as well as wheat. We grabbed a few plants from the fields, boiled them a bit and enjoyed some mighty fine greens along with the young and still white beets.

Chalons-en-Champagne is our next stop; we are no longer amidst the fields of grapes. The Cathedral of Saint Ettiene dates from the 12th century. Its origins are Romanesque, meaning thick walls and small windows, but it was rebuilt in the Gothic style with thin walls and large windows. Then they added a Baroque section in the 17th century. Its soaring ceiling and beautiful stained glass flood the huge chamber in light. Some of the stained glass was made in the 12th century, as seen in the photo below. You can’t help but feel a time travel sensation bringing you into the medieval mind where fantasy rules, fantasy’s limitless reach unrestricted by the limits of factuality, instead only by the rhetoric of theologians and the discipline imposed by the Church.

Vitrail_de_la_Rédemption_crucifixion_1155 — 12th century glass

Notre Dame en Vaux is another great old church, a UNESCO World Heritage one to boot. It was built between 1157 and 1217. It had a cloister, now a garden, faced by a small museum. There are a number of other worthwhile visits in the town of just 45,000. It is on the road to Santiago de Compostela.

notre dame vaux drawing — Drawing in Notre Dame en Vaux, Chalons sur Champagne

Vitry-le-Francois has the tiniest harbor, maybe a half dozen slots with barely room for us in the narrow canal leading to the moorings, where we had to make a difficult 90 degree turn to slide into the perpendicular slot. There is a harbor master, a woman who proved to be highly attentive. The electrical outlet with a proper modern boat type connection wasn’t working. The other outlets were house types, not used in a marine environment. I had to make an adapter from an old house plug.

Nearby is the beautiful city hall, in French called either the Maire (Mayor) or Hotel d’ Ville. It’s oversized for this tiny village.

Maire at Vitry-le-Francois — The Maire in Vitry-le-Francois

Vailly-sur-Aisne

July 15, 2024July 14, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Vailly-sur-Aisne is a small town in the Gran Est region of France. We were moored on the canal when a woman stopped to chat. Later she returned in her car. This is the view from her garden.

Lots of locks, but no bagels

July 13, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Leaving Reims we went back the way we came, then making a two week long circuit, tranquil except for four kilometers on the raging Marne in Epernay. The route took us to many historic and charming small towns who some 110 years ago found themselves in the midst of WWI. We visited large, well kept cemeteries filled with mostly French soldiers. Stops included the towns of small and generally charming villages: Cormicy, Bourg et Comin, Pinon, Longuiel-Annel, Compiegne, Attichy, Vic sur Aisne, Soisson, Courmelois, Epernay, Tours sur Marne, Chalons-en-Champagne, then Vitry-le-Francois.

Most of the locks on this route are controlled by the ships’ crew, using either a remote control or a twist rod that hangs over the water. Mostly we spent nights at a ‘hault nautique,” docks provided by the French waterway authority, the VNF. VNF was there quickly the time or two we needed assistance with the locks.

Many of these towns have interesting old churches. Cormicy’s is blocky, with stumpy flying buttresses. Pretty it’s not, but you can readily imagine the frightened or hopeful parishioners shivering while seated on the hard wooden benches, a seriously abused man hanging over them, as they imagined a worse fate if they did not proclaim the faith.

Bourg et Comin: the town is a short bike ride up a steep hill from the halt. There you find a very good bakery and a small grocery store. The hault nautique has water and electricity. One space at the dock was occupied by someone using this location of as a permanent mooring, not permitted by the VNF but they are lax about enforcement. This is a common problem.

At Pinon the dock was full but the Americans on a barge let us moor up while we went to the ‘gran surface’ Carrefour grocery store just a two minute walk away. Before we had even gathered our shopping bags the other barge there, a Dutch flagged commercial, headed out. We moved to the just freed space, then resumed our shopping trip after driving a stake or two into the ground, as here there are no bollards. After we left the next morning we never saw the Americans again, as they were heading north.

Compiegne has lovely Tudor houses (half-timber structures dating from the 15thc), the magnificent Joan of Arc statue facing the famous Hotel d’ Ville (City Hall). See my article at Compiegne for photos and commentary. By the bridge there is a fuel station and a boat shop well provisioned with boating items. Their mechanic helped me replace the throttle/shifting mechanism, a critical device approaching its 30th birthday.

Vic sur Aisne has a neat old castle and a hault nautique with water and electricity. The Roman road to Calais passed through here. A mile marker was found near the bridge erected by Marcus Aurelius. The first castle was built in 900. The current dates to the 17th century. It was built by Cardinal de Bernis, friend of Voltaire and Madame de Pompadour. The structure was sold as national property during the Revolution. It was rebuilt after bombing in 1918.

Soisson was founded in pre-Roman times by the Suessiones, a Gallic (aka Celtic) tribe. It assumed some importance under the Romans, then fell to Clovis I in 486 CE. After Clovis divided his kingdom among his four sons, Soisson became one of the capitals. Soisson remained important through the Merovingians, whose reign ended in 751 CE

During the Hundred Years’ War, French forces massacred English archers, while killing and raping French residents. The English retaliated by winning the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. Joan of Arc liberated the town on July 23, 1429. Girl got around!

Soisson was heavily bombed in WWI. There is a memorial behind the mayor’s office.

The late 12th century cathedral is Gothic in style with some Romanesque elements. The 13th century tower duplicates that of Notre Dame in Paris.

The famous Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes, once one of the most wealthy in France, was founded in the 1076 as an Augustinian monastery. The first structures were Romanesque, but were replaced by Gothic buildings in the 12th-16th centuries. Unfortunately the church was largely destroyed under Napoleon.

Its two towers are quite different. The taller is 70m/230′ in height, visible from afar. Other parts of the abbey still standing include remains of two cloisters and a 13th-century refectory. There are vestiges of structures from the middle of the 6th century.

Cathedral of Soissons — Cathedral of Soisson

Sisson abbey — Abbey of St. Jean des Vignes

To be continued

Wine and Cheese

July 7, 2024June 25, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Two of my favorite cheeses are featured in this painting. Rustique is a brand of Camembert. It is reliably excellent and inexpensive to boot. Chausse aux Moines, a monk made cheese, has a washed rind that makes for a delightful crusty texture in contrast with the rest of the cheese.

The French eat cheese after or in lieu of dessert, and sometimes at apero, a causal social gathering. It is usually paired with red wine. I have had it served with champagne. It is not served as an appetizer. Smoked salmon is not usually paired but I doubt I would hear any objections.

We often enjoy cheese and wine with a great baguette- something the French have mastered!

Bridge in Dokkum

July 7, 2024June 25, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Reims, a small city with a big past

July 7, 2024June 22, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Reims is pronounced Rance, the ‘a’ is a sound we do not have in English but it’s similar the the ‘a’ in ‘band with a rather nasal pronunciation. The city boasts a Roman era triumphal arch, the Port of Mars, the only remaining of four. The port was once a part of a castle destroyed in 1595. It was then integrated into the city walls, the openings filled in, and not revealed until the mid 1800’s. It now stands by itself, nicely restored.

The Port of Mars is just one of many architectural and historical delights in this city. The most notable is the Cathedral. I posted a video of the superb laser light show they perform every Thursday-Saturday night. See Light show

The Cathedral is built upon the site of the 5th century church, in its turn erected on top of the Roman baths. I would not be surprised if one day we find all were built over some important structure built by the Gauls, the city’s founders. The Cathedral is the site of the coronation of many French kings, beginning with Louis the Debonnaire in 816 , presided over by Pope Stephen IV. Pope Leo met with Charlemagne here.

Aside from the Cathedral there is another church worth visiting. The Basilica of St Remi was officially opened in 1049, before the advent of Gothic architecture, thus its heavy walls and small windows. Construction continued for centuries. As a result the nave and transept are Gothic. Charlemagne’s brother and two early kings are buried here.

The city was founded by the Remi tribe, whence the city’s name. The Remi allied with the Romans during Caesar’s conquest of Gaul. After the Roman victory the Remi’s received favorable treatment. This did not keep the Vandals out. They captured the city in 406, executing the bishop. Atila the Hun sacked the city in 451. Paris is not all that far away, today less than an hour by train. A bit more success and Atila controls today’s capital.

Reims was part of England starting in 1420, following a failed seige in 1360. The English were then expelled by the French, led by a young woman called Joan d’Arc.

Germany occupied the city and made it the seat of the governor during the Franco Prussian war of 1870-71. The Germans were back in WWI. The city and its cathedral suffered significant damage during this armed conflict, eclipsed by the massive casualties reflected in field upon field of cemeteries.

The armistice ending WWII was signed in Reims. The building remains as a museum. It was closed the day we were there, unfortunately.

The area lies on the northern edge of the Champagne production zone. The grapes used are Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunie and Chardonnay almost exclusively. Other regions of France and elsewhere produce this naturally carbonated beverage but the term ‘champagne’ in Europe can only be used for wine produced here. In Burgandy it is called a ‘Crémant de Bourgogne, in Alsace it is called ‘Crémant de Alsace.’ In all there are 24 sparkling wine areas in France. Spain uses the same method. Prosecco uses vat fermentation as opposed to the bottle fermentation used here. The Champagne method was developed by a monk named Dom Perignon. Old Dom still makes champagne, although these days there are machines that turn the bottles. Many Champagne houses are located here, allowing for visits to the cellars where they explain the process.

Reims is not all Champagne and great old structures. It has a lively pedestrian shopping zone with eateries up the Oise. Petite Sale is a traditional dish, lentils with salted pork, although on my wanderings I did not see it on a menu.

Chaource is from this region. It is a soft cheese. If you can get a good one it’s richly flavored and creamy. Truffles are a big deal, as is a pink biscuit. There is a regional mustard and a smoked ham as well. Boudin blanc, a white sausage, is a traditional product. Andouillettes de Troyes is made from the large intestine and stomach, onions, salt and pepper. I wish I hadn’t known.

porte-mars-reims-1024x662-4149132103 — Port of Mars

Reims_BasilicaSaint-Remi_016_8114 — Interior of St Remi, photo by Ludvig14

fountain — In the central pedestrian zone, Reims

Reims Cathedral and its Fabulous Light Show #regalia

July 7, 2024June 10, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Notre Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims) is an ancient church done up in High Gothic Style. From Thursday to Sunday they project a superbly produced free light show after dark. Last night it started at 2245h.

The Cathedral is the traditional location for the coronation of the French kings. In its previous incarnation as a Romanesque building it was the site of the baptism of Clovis I in the early 6th century. Construction of the current church began in the 13th century after the destruction by fire of the previous structure. It features flying buttresses like the ones at Notre Dame in Paris, allowing for a well light interior. It is owned by the government of France, which pays for its care. The Roman Catholic Church is allowed use.

After the severe bombing damage of WWI, when it was used as a hospital, the building was restored, with three windows by the Russian born Chagal. The Rockefeller Foundation donated to the project. In the 1990’s they found the 5th century baptistry along with parts of the original church, itself built upon the site of the baths.

In 816 Louis the Pious was crowned by Pope Stephen IV. From Henry I in 1027 most French kings were crowned here. It was held by the English but returned to the French by none other than the 20 year old Joan of Arc in 1429.

Reams have been written about Reims (actually pronounced something like ‘Rance,’ no ‘M.”) There’s a PhD thesis around every corner. Just looking at its main facade is more than an eyeful, even though the main entrance is currently covered. There are more statues than I can count without a large photo print.

Garybob says check it out! Get there from Paris on the TGV. It does not take long.

Stepping our way through the Canal des Ardennes

July 7, 2024June 4, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

There was no rain.

Thus began our early morning journey through the 26 step locks of the Canal des Ardennes. We are extra thankful. Since there are many low bridges we must lower our rain hood. We could have been steering in the rain for the next seven or so hours. Instead we enjoyed more sunshine than we have seen we started this year’s boat travels.

la chesne viking — We started from La Chesne. Great steak au poivre across the street at the Odyssey (French, not Greek).

The locks are remote controlled. We only had to wait for help at one lock that would not open. A VNF employee was there within minutes. Another lock closed and emptied while we waited, then filled and let us in. Otherwise the system worked well.

The locks were not turbulent. We are descending. When you are ascending you are much more likely to experience turbulence.

We made the journey in just five hours, instead of the typical seven hours. Stopping at Attigny, we spoke to the Danish couple also moored there. The day before it took them 9 hours, having lots of problems with the locks. At one point they had to wait an hour for assistance. We saw VNF employees everywhere. Many were mowing or doing other maintenance chores near the locks or along the way, or driving back and forth along the canal. We lucked out.

step lock fills Stern waiting — In one of the locks

cows on the hill — Rolling hills and lots of cattle and farmed land

After the last lock on the Canal you enter the River Aisne after passing through a lock, then into its canal. As you approach Attigny things get rather narrow.

things get narrow — Squeezing through narrow portions of the Aisne Canal

Finding our Meuse

July 7, 2024June 2, 2024 by Gary Kirkpatrick

Winding our way down the Sambre from Manage to the river Meuse at Namur, we turned into the current of the swollen waterway. For the next 143 kilometers we would be pushing against the run off from the extraordinary rainfall in the northeast parts of France and the southeast parts of Belgium. We skipped by both Namur and Dinant, having been there previously, but also so we could more quickly arrive at the Canal des Ardennes in France. Once there we’d be out of the current. It’s 46 kilometers to the French border, then 97 kilometers in France. We must traverse some 40 locks, each of which takes at least 20 minutes.

Rain followed us much of the way. Combined with the strong, sometimes intimidating current, it created a darkened mood over the journey. When the rain lifted and the current fell off or disappeared when we were in the short canals after locks, the mood turned around, even if briefly. Getting to the Ardennes promised a more pleasant experience.

20240527_131003 — The Meuse cuts a path through a hilly region

After a grinding week we entered the Canal des Ardennes. We were greeted by a friendly woman at the fuel dock. We topped up our fuel and water tanks, then docked in front of the lock per her instructions as it is a no mooring zone. Then we went straight for the one bar in this tiny collection of businesses, houses, rent boats and private small craft. A few people live on their boat, in addition to perhaps a few dozen residents. Bigger towns lie ahead, through dozens of locks, including 21 locks in the space of just seven kilometers as we climb the hills.

20240527_131832 — Mansions along the way

20240531_133018 — Approaching the first lock