Cappadocia, Turkey, rich in history and geological formations

Cappadoccia, known as Hitti in the late Bronze age (circa 1500 BCE), is in the Anatolia region of present day Turkey. Once ruled by Alexander the Great, it later came under the influence of the Persians.  Pompey, Caeser, Antony, and finally, Octavia fought for its control. By the time of the death of Jesus it was a Roman province, and became an area where early Christians lived. Tourists today flock to see the cave dwellings and underground cities that housed up to 20,000.

cave dwellings at night
Cave dwellings at night

They used these underground dwellings primarily in times of danger. Some of these descended six stories into the soft tufa rock. The Christians were not the first to dig into the tufa. The Phrygians, an Indo-European people, may have done so in the 8th–7th centuries B.C .E. Early Christians expanded the dwellings. Many of these Christians were Greek speaking, in fact the Gospels were written in Greek, as the earliest fragments (150 CE), manuscripts and linguistic analysis show.

There was significant expansion in the Byzantine (what we also call the Eastern Roman Empire) era, when Muslim raids became a danger to the population, 780-1180 CE. They constructed underground traps in the case of intrusion, for example using boulders to cut off passages. After the Seljuk Turks of Persia conquered the Byzantine Empire, inhabitants still used the dwellings to avoid the Turks into the 20th century. Kaymakli is the most visited of the underground cities.

The Christians in the area were expelled in 1923 in a population exchange with Greece.

WhatsApp Image 2022-04-08 at 5.35.18 PM
Once inhabited by monks, starting in the 1100’s

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WhatsApp Image 2022-04-08 at 5.35.18 PM
Cappadocia
Cave dwellings
cave dwellings massive numbers
cave dwellings baloons

The dark tops of the pillars are giant stones thrown out of volcanoes 2 million years ago that fell on tufa plateaus that developed from volcanic ash spewed out of the same volcanoes 15 million years ago. The stones compressed the tufa when they landed and now protect the soft tufa directly under them as the wind erodes the plateau creating the pillars. Eventually the pillars become so thin that the stones fall. 

Adventures in Covid Travel

April 4, 2022

I was in Madrid on my way to Montreal via Heathrow. Just after passengers boarded the airplane in Madrid to go to Heathrow we had to disembark.  There was something wrong with the plane. We got out an hour late.  I had 2.5 hr layover at Heathrow so I figured I’d make my connection to Montreal. 


No.  Once landed, we waited 45 min for a gate.  By the time I got off the plane they had closed boarding so I missed the flight to Montreal.  American Airlines was great-  got me another flight the next day, a hotel, transport, meals.  However, the flight went through Philadelphia so I had to get a covid test per US requirements.  Canada stopped requiring tests as of April 1, and this was April 4, so I had not tested. I found my way to the testing center in the Airport, filled out the crazy long form on the app, paid a lot of money.   Results would take an hour, they said, so I found my way to the shuttle.

I stood waiting for an hour.  I got there at 9 pm, having finally left Madrid 7 hours earlier.  About the I received the email. I tested positive!  No flying for me!   This can happen for some time after you are symptom free. The only upside was the really nice hotel, lovely dinner and  English breakfast the next morning. 

Fortunately they allowed me to travel so the next day I took the bus from Heathrow to London VIctoria Bus Station, then took another bus leaving at 1130, going through the Chunnel to Lille, France.  From there it’s a 45 minute train where I am now, on the border with Belgium. From the train station it’s about a 10 minute walk to the marina.  I arrived at 8 pm, fortunately not dark yet.  To get into the marina you need a plastic card that you scan at the gate.  I had two.  So I scanned it and got in. 

I walked down the long dock. There’s the boat, I set my backpacks down (yes, two backpacks), climbed onto the rear deck.  I’d recalled leaving a key in both boxes in case I forgot to take one with me from Spain, which indeed I had, which I figured out in Madrid.  The key was indeed in the box and in a moment I was in the boat.


However there was no electricity.  The card I had was supposed to have money on it for electrical, water, and access to the bathroom.  It did not work for electricity.  I gathered some bottles (water also runs off this card so no water at the boat) and walked back down the long dock to the bathroom to get water for the night.  

Nope. The card did not work there either.  Apparently these cards were invalidated cut off once the six months we paid for was up.  
Back to the boat.  Well, back to the gate. It would not open!  So either it was ajar earlier or they gave us one entry on the card, probably the former.  Now what am I going to do?

I start walking along the fence.  Back in January when I was here they removed a section, replacing it with a temporary fence.  I was looking for a way under, through or over.  I did have my wallet and phone with me in the event I could not get in and needed a hotel.  I could do without my backpacks for one night.

Along the way I saw one of maybe 3 occupants living aboard come out of his boat. Fortunately I speak some French. He told me I could get in, just follow the temporary fence to the end.  Mercy bucups and voila your own self – I was back in with my two sips of water for the night and enough left over for a half cup of coffee in the morning.  But at least I was in. It was not so terribly cold out so the lack of heat would not matter. I slept like a log, as you can imagine.

Next day between me and Peg on the phone talking to the harbormaster we got our card charged up.  The harbormaster is a really friendly and helpful woman with boat repair skills.  In September she made some door glides for us after the old plastic ones failed on one of the doors.  Pretty fancy work.  She is cutting me a bit of wood for the exterior box.  Before here she had a workshop.  

We have traveled during the Covid periods on several occasions to get to the boat. This was my first effort to cross the Atlantic. I think I will wait until the US air travel testing requirement is removed. This adventure stretched me to the limits and had I been really ill I would have still been in London now, nearly a week later.

Two Faces in Conte

Messing around on a Sunday afternoon

messing around on a sunday- two faces in conte
Big drawing on Fabriano sketch paper 42 x 60 cm

While just about recovering from a mild round of Covid 19. I think the vaxes and booster did some good. Docs gave me some antibiotics and an anti-inflammatory. Back to normal in two days.

Art from Poland

The Poles are very supportive of the millions of Ukrainian refugees.  Poland is a country with a long trouble history of occupation, most recently by the the de-facto occupation by the Russians.  They do not want the Russians back either.  There are some disturbing anti-democratic developments in Poland.  I do not know how Russia’s actions might effect the situation in Poland in regard to this.  However the Russian invasion reveals in part the effects of authoritarian rule.

 

Stare Miasto, Warsaw. 11.5*16.5′, 30*42 cm acrylics on paper.
Field and Stream, water color, 20 cm x 20 cm, 8″ x *” on Arches
Church at the Open Air Museum, Lublin
Pen and ink of Poznan Cathedral
Ulica Szorka, Torun
Ulica Szorka, Torun
Lech as a Young Man, pen and ink, 20×20 cm, 8×8″
Lech Now, watercolor, , 20×20 cm, 8×8″
Malbork Castle, watercolor, 20 x 20 cm, 8″ x 8″
Mill at Malbork Castle, pen and ink
Wawel Castle, Poland

Art from Kiev

These are my paintings made from our visit to Kiev several years ago. The determination to be democratically ruled and independent was obvious from its extensive exhibit of the 2014 uprising. Its architecture is a world treasure. I can only hope that they come out on top of this terrible war with the Russian effort to go after civilians. This effort is another affirmation to its people that it must never again be part of Russia.

Roof of Kiev, acrylics on paper, 11.5*16.5′, 30*42 cm
Pechersk Lavra, Kiev monastery, digital painting
Building in Kiev, digitial painting

Here are `

Caryatid in Kiev
Santa Sofia, digital painting
Pechersk Lavra, Kiev monastery, digital painting

My exposition in Valencia March 27- April 2, 2022

Some of my paintings will be on display in Valencia, Spain at El Cau del Roure https://elcaudelroure.com/exposiciones-2/ The paintings will be on display from March 25 until April 2, 2022. The hours are 19-21hours onThursday, Friday and Saturday, Sunday from 11-14 hours. The catalog is attached. Please come by. I plan to be there. The address is Calle Roure 1, 46014 Valencia, behind Consorci Hospital General Universitari de València.

Croquis Cafe
One of the 4 paintings on display

Frank Zappa – portrait

Frank Zappa
Frank Zappa, Conte on mat board approx 24″ x 36″

Frank Zappa  (1940 – 1993) was a a composer, musician, songwriter and bandleader. Most of his music was rock, with a strong note of heavy metal. His lyrics satirized American cluture. He composed classical pieces and had them performed. He also wrote jazz and pop pieces such as Valley Girl.

He produced most of his 60-plus albums and is the one of the most innovative of musicians.